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General repair information on LG washing machines.

Hole appeared in drum

My LG WM1455HWA suddenly is leaking. There is a hole in the drum. I cannot find the missing piece of the drum. How can I patch this? Does anyone know what the drum material is and what would adhere to it?

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I don't know what material the drum is made of (I'd guess PP but that's just wild speculation), but if I tried patching a hole like that, I'd be constantly worried about the patch failing and leaking. Is the unit installed in a basement with concrete floors and a floor drain?

Safe bet that some foreign object slipped between the basket and tub, and during spin it caught a dimple on the basket and blew out that hole. Open question whether the object is still in the tub, or if it's worked its way into the drain filter.

If the risk is worth it, look around the the tub, you may see a stamp showing the plastic used and the mfg date, may be able to find a suitable plastic welding solution or a compatible adhesive with proper surface prep.

Personally, I'd call it totalled and replace it

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AI Overview: The outer tub (drum) on the LG WM1455HWA front-load washer is made of heavy-duty, high-density industrial thermoplastic (polycarbonate/polypropylene composite), designed to hold water safely while resisting heat and vibration, unlike the inner stainless steel wash basket.

Something hard damaged the wall to smash into it, from inside, possibly from an imbalanced load. Is this image looking from the bottom of this machine? The following suggestion is just that, a suggestion only, for your consideration.

If you can't find the missing piece outside, it may be between the stainless basket and plastic liner and drain. It would be best to find it but there may be a work around. The missing piece would act as a filler for 2-part epoxy (5-minute or 12/24 hr type). Almost any epoxy will work with plastic to fill in around the damaged part free of dried soap and debris. Most epoxies are good for temperatures around 175F. High temperature epoxies have a range between 400F to 600F. Taping the inside wall of the hole keeps epoxy from flowing into the basket side. Tape covering almost to the top of the exposed side of this hole will allow filling the void with epoxy to firm up from taped sides until fully cured. If you choose to make repairs using epoxy, mix exactly equal amounts then apply. Epoxy will resemble molasses or honey to flow and must be restrained as a liquid on a vertical repair. Set time occurs in about an hour as it cures, hardening as more time passes. You can test hardening with a fingernail gently pressed into the tape.

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So I had a polyethylene soldering iron with a bunch of poly rods and some stainless mesh lying around. The hole is at a low point. I used the soldering iron to melt into the drum the stainless mesh and then I coated it all with melted poly from the rods. I only ever found a piece that is a quarter of the entire blowout. I did one load and had no leaks.

I have very little confidence in my repair. I would like to reinforce it with epoxy, but my sense is that epoxy will not stick to poly. I think a drain pan is in order to protect against another flood. This wash does not use much water at least.

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Great idea of plastic heat welding steel mesh as patch material with poly rods melted over the patched area. I don't know if polyethylene is compatible to tub plastic. Worse case scenario is the melted rods simply coming off to start another leak. If tub and plastic rods melt together without separating from each other, you may have found a good diy repair. If you shop online, you can find epoxy brands and materials they're compatible with. Presuming the plastic tub is rigid, is a plus when epoxy is used to reinforce your stainless mesh/polyethylene rods melted into the mesh and tub. If you make an epoxy sandwich, epoxy inside and outside as patches, there may be an additional patch to consider: Flex Seal in either paint on with a brush, spray can or tape.

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