Flip the controller over to its front and locate the seam where the front plate connects to the rest of the body.

Hold the controller firmly.

Insert the thin edge of an iFixit opening tool into the seam at the edge of the front plate close to the A button.

Work slowly and carefully around all sides to avoid snapping the clips.

Once all clips are released, lift the front plate away from the controller.

Flip the controller over so that the back panel is facing up.

Locate the latch on the back panel.

Pull down gently to open the compartment and expose the battery slots.

Remove batteries.

Remove the six 8 mm screws securing the controller's body using a TR9 Torx screwdriver.

Gently pry along the seam that separates the two halves of the controller using an opening tool.

Work your way around the perimeter to carefully release the clips securing the two halves.

Lay the front of the controller shell downward.

Remove the rubber padding that keeps the buttons in place.

Remove the buttons from the shell housing.

Gently pull the joystick thumbstick straight up to remove it from the controller.

Gently grab the controller's circuitry and hold the bottom shell.

Pull the circuitry gently out from the shell.

Once the clips are finally unbound, the top piece will pry off, with the face and home buttons intact.

The plastic D-pad piece can be pulled off of a black cylindrical post along with a rubber membrane to interface between the plastic and the microswitches on the motherboard.

Interestingly, the Amazon Luna has a daughter board that holds the analog sticks, B button and the hall-effect sensors for the analog triggers.

The side of the analog stick reads: 2124IC.

The analog sticks are frictionless and use green potentiometers, not sure if these are ALPS potentiometers similar to those in the Xbox series controllers.

The blue circle next to this stick is the trigger's hall-effect sensor which senses the magnet installed on the side of the trigger. The other sensor is mounted similarly on the opposite side of the board near the B button.

The middle of the daughter board has an adhesive strip covering some of the solder joints and a few test points. Perhaps some isoprophyl alcohol can soften the adhesive to remove the black strip if necessary.

The motherboard is held tightly to the black plastic midframe by plastic clips, and rumble motor wires are soldered to the motherboard on both sides.

The blue circle is the plastic midframe piece holding the motherboard in place.

The yellow piece is a routing clip for the rumble motor wires.

The motors need to be moved to cleanly access the back of the motherboard, either by desoldering the motor wires, or softening the adhesive on the motors with isoprophyl alcohol.

Once the motor wires are removed, pry back the plastic pieces of the midframe on each end of the controller and pull up on the motherboard to remove it.

This is the otherside of the motherboard lifted out of the midframe.

The chip closest to the USB-C port reads: "LP5036" "T1 188" "A805 G4"

The USB-C port on top reads: "LUXSHARE" "22042330"

There is a large component near the face buttons that reads "KO" "337" "6K" "121"

Hopefully, with the large number of clips and little number of screws that need to be reinstalled, reassembly should be simple. But some notes:

Within the orange circle is the magnet that pivots from the spring inside the trigger, which will approach the hall effect sensor on the corner of the daughterboard.

The bumpers can swing up on a pivot which can make it easier to remove the motherboard. But when trying to put the controller back together, the bumpers may get stuck. Before the main pieces are combined back together, swing the bumpers up and pull down the trigger to give the bumper room to swing down into position. Release the trigger and test.

The bottom piece by the handles have a long sleeve surrounded by a spring where it holds a long post from the top piece. Start realignment of the controller at the bottom, ensuring that these posts fall into the sleeves, then slowly close the controller at the bottom along the headphone jack, then