Introduction
Follow this guide to swap a broken lid lock so your washer will start cycles and unlock correctly. A failed lock can leave the basket disabled or the lid stuck shut, and the newest Whirlpool design removes differently from earlier models. Replacing it yourself restores normal operation without a service call.
What you need
-
Step 1 Shut off power and water
-
Slide the washer forward so you can reach the back panel comfortably.
-
-
Step 2 Remove the rear top screws and wire cover
-
Remove the two quarter-inch screws at the back corners that secure the top panel.
-
Remove the quarter-inch screw in the small wire-harness cover and lift the cover off.
-
-
Step 3 Remove the console back cover
-
Remove the five screws holding the rear console cover and pull the metal cover away.
-
-
Step 4 Release the console
-
Push the basket rearward, reach under the lid, and press the two hidden spring clips to pop the console loose, or slide a flexible plastic card into the gap from the front to release them.
-
Swing the console up, press the tab on its single wire connector, and unplug it from the control board.
-
-
Step 5 Disconnect the top-panel wiring
-
Unplug the lid-lock harness and any other wiring leading into the top panel.
-
Pull the small pressure hose straight off its port on the control board.
-
Remove the green ground strap held by a quarter-inch screw if it blocks the panel.
-
-
Step 6 Raise and support the top
-
Raise the rear edge of the lid and top assembly high, push it forward to free the rear clips, then move to the front and lift upward while pulling back to release the front tabs.
-
-
Step 7 Remove the lid-lock bezel
-
Slip a fingernail or thin plastic tool under the bezel tabs on the lid surface and gently pry it free from the lock body.
-
-
Step 8 Release the lid lock assembly
-
Push the lock assembly to the left, lift it slightly, then slide it right and out of the lid opening.
-
-
Step 9 Free the lid-lock harness
-
Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry the two metal retainers open and pull the harness trunk out of them.
-
Press the tab on the small plastic retainer and release the harness from the top side of the lid.
-
-
Step 10 Route the new lid-lock harness
-
Thread the replacement harness through the lid hole and seat it into the two metal clips.
-
Snap the plastic retainer back into the lid to secure the harness slack.
-
-
Step 11 Install the new lid lock
-
Insert the top of the lock body into the left side of the opening, press it flush against the lid, and slide it firmly to the right until the side tab clicks.
-
-
Step 12 Reinstall the bezel
-
Align the bezel over the lock and press until all four tabs click flat against the lid surface.
-
-
Step 13 Lower the top
-
Guide the top back onto the chassis, rock it forward, down, and back until the front and rear clips snap flush.
-
Lift the rear edge again slightly if needed to be sure every latch is locked tight.
-
-
Step 14 Reconnect the console
-
Reinstall the green ground strap with its screw and plug every harness back into the control board.
-
Set the console on its hinges and push until the spring clips click into the lid housing.
-
-
Step 15 Reinstall the rear covers
-
Install the metal console back cover with its five screws.
-
Replace the wire-harness cover screw, then reinstall the two quarter-inch top screws removed earlier.
-
-
Step 16 Restore power and water
-
Open the water supply valves and plug the washer back into the outlet.
-
-
Step 17 Run the calibration cycle
-
Verify all lights are off, then press the same three keys in order three times within eight seconds (1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3) to enter diagnostics.
-
Wait for the indicator lamps to flash, press the second key (Rinse) once, then press Start to launch the automatic test cycle for calibration.
-
Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.
1 Guide Comment
What do u do wen the 123 123 123 method dose not work... ??