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Whirlpool Washing Machine Control Board F3E1 Pressure Sensor Repair

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

What you need

    • Unplug the washing machine from the wall outlet before servicing it.

    • Turn off the water supply valves to reduce the risk of leaks while the machine is open.

    • Remove the control board and place it on a stable, well-lit work surface with ESD protection if available.

    • Work in a ventilated area and avoid breathing solder fumes.

    • Plan on using basic soldering and desoldering techniques for through-hole pins.

    • Confirm the washer is showing the F3E1 pressure sensor code and may be stuck in a constant drain mode.

    • Treat constant pump running, failure to stop draining, random shutoff, or overfilling on auto-sensing as common related symptoms.

    • This repair commonly applies to models NTW4516FW, NTW4619FW, WTW4655JW, WTW4816HW, WTW4850HW, WTW4855HW, WTW4950HW, WTW4955HW, WTW4957PW, WET4027HW, WETLV27HW, and WGT4027HW.

    • Find the pressure sensor on the control board and identify the eight pins that pass through the PCB.

    • Flip the board so the underside faces up and locate the eight soldered pin joints for the sensor.

    • Inspect the solder joints for a light conformal coating that can block desoldering.

    • Use hot air or a heated desoldering tool to break through the spot coatings before you try to clear solder.

    • Avoid overheating the board to prevent pad and trace damage.

    • Desolder the eight pins one by one using a desoldering pump or desoldering gun.

    • Expect the pins to be flat and wide, which can make solder removal slower than typical round leads.

    • Rework stubborn joints until the solder is fully cleared, especially on any pins that still look filled.

    • Take extra time on boards with uneven joints, as some boards may have been remanufactured previously.

    • Flip the board as needed and use needle-nose pliers to apply gentle pressure to lift the sensor while you continue desoldering.

    • Pull only when the pins are free, and stop if the sensor won’t move because solder is still holding it.

    • Watch for pins pulling away from the old sensor during removal, especially on stubborn boards.

    • Remove the sensor once all pins release from the PCB holes.

    • Verify the replacement sensor part number is ADP51B62M02 before installation.

    • Confirm the sensor style matches the board, since pressure sensor styles can vary by board.

    • Align the sensor so the correct row of pins matches the board traces, since one row does nothing and the other supplies voltage feedback.

    • Orient the sensor so the pressure hole sits on the opposite side from the traces, with that side facing away from the traced side of the footprint.

    • Don’t rely on the pin one chamfer, because it can be very hard to see.

    • Insert the new sensor pins into the PCB holes and seat the sensor flat against the board.

    • Hold the sensor in place while soldering using electrical tape, helping hands, or by resting the sensor against the table.

    • Use a soldering iron and solder wire to solder the sensor to the board.

    • Focus on the three key solder points on the bottom and keep solder from flowing into or touching the other pins.

    • Limit heat on the sensor to avoid damaging internal contacts, and use low-temperature rosin-core solder if available.

    • Inspect the joints with a phone camera or magnifying glass to confirm no solder bridges are touching and grounding the pins together.

    • Let the solder cool before handling the board or reconnecting wiring.

    • Gently plug the seven wire connectors back into the control board.

    • Restore power and check whether the board is still running the last flood-control or drain command.

    • Press and hold the red Pause/Cancel button for 10 seconds to cancel the operation if needed.

    • Test the sensor by measuring voltage from pin 3 to pin 4 during operation using a multimeter.

    • Expect about 0.3 to 0.4 volts while filling for auto-sense.

    • Test without a meter by running a normal load and confirming the tub fills to an appropriate non-deep-fill level and shuts off correctly.

    • Stop the cycle if it overfills, since that can cause flooding and indicates a problem with the sensor install or circuit.

    • Apply a very light coat of conformal coating to the rear side of the board over the repaired solder joints if desired.

    • Conformal coating isn’t required, but it helps protect the board from moisture.

Conclusion

If the washer still drains endlessly after replacement, recheck the sensor’s orientation against the board traces and inspect the solder joints for bridges or cold joints. If the old sensor was difficult to remove, also inspect the PCB pads and through-holes for damage that could prevent a good electrical connection.

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Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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