Step-by-step table lamp power switch replacement.

Attempting to repair a bedside lamp switch. The switch is the original one from the lamp. It is disassembled by prying on the 4 sides with a flathead screwdriver; the cover is only snap-fitted.

Before disassembling, we verified that by pressing on one side and the other, the lever wobbles excessively loosely, which is why the metal contact does not close.

The entire assembly is fitted together like a plastic base and lid, so by prying, you can disassemble the lid, the button, and the electrical contact housing.

Before replacing the switch, I will make one last repair attempt (on this model—it may be different or impossible on other models) by bending the metal plate where the moving plate pivots.

Reassemble the entire unit and test the lamp; since it could not be successfully repaired, it is time to proceed with replacing the switch.

As a substitute for the original, at a large hardware store, I find switches in white, black, transparent, and gold; I choose the gold one.

To pry open the assembly, unscrew the 2 small Phillips screws at the bottom of the cover.

This model only has a switch on one of the wires; the other wire can be left uncut, or you can use the terminal block on the bottom to join the wires if you have cut them. My advice is to avoid cutting the second wire whenever possible, in which case the terminal block will be removed.

Photo 1: We see at the top, the electrical contact handled by the bumper.

Photo 2 and 3: Proceed to remove the terminal strip that would connect the 2nd cable, as I am choosing not to cut the cable and pass it through without interrupting it.

Teardown of the 2 black input and output cable glands.

Note: a detail that is not of vital importance, but does demonstrate whether we have done the work with good judgment and knowledge: we must choose the position where button pressed = contact closed, so that the closed button points toward the lamp; if assembled backward it works the same, but it is not the most correct way.

If we look at the switch and press it, we will see how the movable metal plate opens and closes the contact.

Once the original switch is removed, we see that one of the wires is a bypass wire and is not interrupted; we will leave it as is, as it will be one less source of potential problems.

For the wire that performs the switch function, cut off the metal plates with pliers, leaving the crimp if it fits in the new connection holes—in this case, it fits; otherwise, we will have to strip that piece of wire, removing the metal part from the previous component.

Do a preliminary test fit of the wire into the switch to see if the measurements are correct and where we need to trim the sheath a little.

Photo 1: View of the cable with the original pressed metal sheet piece, which we will continue to reuse, and the cutout made in the second plastic sleeve to release a few more millimeters of cable.

Photo 2: Cable securing.

Photo 3: Installation of the cable gland, which will leave us secured - finishing this side.

Place the 2nd cable following the contour of the recess; if you do not do this correctly, the cover will not close properly when you reinstall it.

Photo 2: Insert the cable into the screw hole using flat-nose pliers, which will make the task easier.

Photo 3: Installation of the 2nd cable gland and routing of the lower cable into its recess.

Replace the cover and secure it with its 2 screws from the bottom.

Lamp working.

Tools used: Small flathead screwdriver, small Phillips screwdriver, electrician's scissors, flat-nose pliers.

It is a very simple and intuitive task to perform; treat it as a few minutes of entertainment - DIY, so it is not just a task to complete, but an electrical DIY hobby to enjoy. That is my advice.