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Speed Queen TC/TR Series Washing Machine Control Board Replacement

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Time Required: 30 minutes - 1 hour
Difficulty: Moderate
Speed Queen TC/TR Series Washing Machine Control Board Replacement
Video Guide This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

Introduction

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If a Speed Queen TC or TR Series washer won’t run correctly, the main control board may be failing. Replacing the control board can fix issues like nonstop beeping you can’t cancel, all the lights flashing and the washer only working briefly after unplugging, or no drain-and-spin even though the other components are working. This guide uses the TC5 as the example, but the access and replacement process is similar on the TR-3, TR-5, TL-3, and TR-7.

What you need

Parts

Tools

      • Replace the control board if the washer beeps nonstop and won’t cancel.

      • A failing board can also cause all the lights to flash, prevent drain and spin, or let the washer work only briefly after being unplugged.

      • Flashing wash, spin, and lid-lock lights in sequence can also point to a failed control board.

      • Order the board that matches the exact washer model, because each model uses a different board.

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      • WARNING: Unplug the washer from the wall outlet before starting.

      • Pull the washer forward so you can comfortably access the front and lower edge.

      • Caution: Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet-metal edges inside the cabinet.

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      • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the two screws at the bottom of the front panel.

      • Remove the left screw and the right screw, and set them aside.

      • A 5/16-inch nut-driver bit on an optional cordless driver/drill also works, but keep the speed low so you do not strip the screws.

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      • Pivot the front panel away from the washer so it swings out and drops down from the bottom edge.

      • Pull the panel away from the cabinet to access the inside of the washer.

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      • Locate the control board assembly in the lower left corner of the washer.

      • Find the board inside its plastic housing on a metal mounting bracket.

      • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the screw securing the metal bracket to the chassis.

      • Lift the board assembly up to free it from the chassis, and pull it out where you can work on it.

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      • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the three screws holding the plastic cover to the metal backing.

      • Remove the two screws on the front of the cover and the one screw on the back of the cover.

      • Lift off the plastic cover to expose the circuit board.

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      • Depress the locking tab on a wire connector, and pull the connector straight off the board.

      • Repeat for all wire harness connectors until the board is fully unplugged.

      • On the TC5, the connectors are different sizes, so they only fit in their matching sockets.

      • Do not pull on the wires, because you can damage the harness or loosen pins in the connector.

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      • Pull the board assembly away from the main wire harness trunk once all connectors are unplugged.

      • Some replacement boards come pre-mounted on the metal bracket, so you may only need to install the new assembly.

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      • Attach each wire harness connector to the matching socket on the new board.

      • Match connectors by their pin counts and shapes, and don’t force a connector into place.

      • Press each connector in until it’s fully seated and snug with no loose connection.

      • Route the wire packs the same way they were originally routed so the board will fit on its mounting bracket.

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      • Set the plastic cover back onto the board housing in the same orientation as it was originally.

      • Route all wires through the gap on the lower right side of the cover so they can exit to the main harness trunk.

      • The fit between the board, wires, and cover is tight, so you may need a try or two to route everything correctly.

      • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to reinstall the three screws that secure the plastic cover to the metal backing.

      • Tighten the screws slowly to avoid pinching wires or cracking the plastic cover.

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      • Slot the metal tab on the board bracket into the washer chassis.

      • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to reinstall the chassis screw that locks the board assembly in place.

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      • Hook the front panel’s metal clips into the notches in the top lip of the washer opening.

      • Pivot the front panel into the cabinet so it rotates into place and the clips lock in.

      • Seat the two front-panel pegs into their matching holes so the panel sits flush.

      • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to reinstall the two screws at the bottom of the front panel.

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      • Plug the washer back in.

      • Run the washer to confirm normal operation.

      • No board programming or reset procedure is typically required after installation.

      • Run diagnostic mode if you need further troubleshooting.

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Conclusion

If the washer still won’t operate correctly after replacement, recheck every connector for a fully seated, snug fit, and confirm the wiring is routed through the cover’s lower-right wire gap without being pinched. Make sure the installed control board matches the washer’s exact model. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

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Ben Schlichter

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