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Samsung Front Load Dryer Heating Element Replacement

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

What you need

    • WARNING: Disconnect the dryer from power before starting this repair.

    • Note: The video focuses on disassembly and doesn’t show a power-disconnect step, but the dryer contains live electrical wiring when plugged in.

    • Use a screwdriver to remove the screws from the top rear of the dryer.

    • Note: These are usually Phillips screws, but a previous repair may have installed a different screw type.

    • Pull the top panel toward the back of the dryer, and lift it off.

    • Note: Removing the top panel exposes the drum for access and inspection.

    • Remove any screws securing the plastic console panel, if your dryer has them.

    • Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry up the plastic retention tabs, and roll the console forward.

    • Disconnect the wiring harnesses that keep the console attached.

    • Note: This dryer has two harnesses, but other models may differ.

    • Rotate the console to about a 90 degree angle, and pull it out to release it from its retention tabs.

    • Note: Some Samsung dryers have screws underneath the front that also hold the front in place.

    • Open the dryer door.

    • Remove the two screws just below the opening of the dryer drum.

    • Note: Screw locations and orientations can vary by model, so look for the screws that secure the front panel on your unit.

    • Remove the four screws securing the door frame to the bulkhead, with two screws on each side.

    • Press in the two tabs that retain the door, then pull the door forward, up, and out.

    • Disconnect the wire harness from the door switch.

    • Disconnect the wire harness for the door light switch.

    • Remove the four screws securing the top metal bracket.

    • Pull the bracket out of the frame, and release the small metal fingers on each side.

    • Remove the bulkhead wire harness from its retention tabs.

    • Disconnect the moisture sensor wire harness before trying to remove the bulkhead.

    • Remove the four screws holding the bulkhead to the dryer frame.

    • Remove the two screws between the filter housing and the bulkhead.

    • Remove the screws holding the blower housing piece, with two screws into the bulkhead and three screws into the blower housing.

    • Note: The two screws between the filter and blower housings aren’t required at this stage, but the video removes them anyway.

    • Lift up on the bulkhead to clear the side tabs it rests on, then pull the bulkhead off the dryer.

    • Note: The side tabs make the bulkhead easier to remove and reinstall.

    • Reach inside to find the idler pulley, and move it counterclockwise (from your perspective) to release belt tension.

    • Use your other hand to slip the belt off track, either off the idler pulley or off the motor pulley.

    • Use the belt on the drum to pull the drum up and out of the way to access internal components.

    • Clean lint and buildup from inside the dryer while it’s open.

    • Note: The video warns that lint and other buildup can cause major problems.

    • Identify key components, including the heater canister on the right side, the blower housing, the motor assembly, and the two blower housing sensors.

    • Note: The video describes one sensor as maintaining temperature and the other as an overheat fail-safe.

    • Remove the single screw that holds the metal leg and the heater canister together.

    • Disconnect the red and blue wires going to the heater canister that aren’t attached to the sensors.

    • Pull the heater canister out of the dryer.

    • Note: If you’re replacing the complete heater canister assembly, installation continues at the heater canister reinstall step.

    • Remove the two sensors from the heater canister by removing the two screws on each sensor.

    • Reminder: Keep track of sensor locations so they go back in the proper places during reassembly.

    • Remove the screws holding the heater canister together, with about six Phillips screws total.

    • Lift off the top of the canister to expose the heating element.

    • Locate the two small angled tabs on the element wire connectors where they sit in the ceramic block.

    • Use pliers to pinch and bend the tabs until they’re flush with the connectors.

    • Pull the connectors out of the ceramic holders, and remove the old heating element.

    • Wear at least one glove, and don’t touch the heater coil with bare hands.

    • Note: The video warns that sweat or oil on the coil can make it burn up and degrade faster.

    • Route the two wire connectors into the ceramic connector block, and push them in fully with a gloved hand.

    • Use pliers to bend each connector tab about 50 to 90 degrees to lock the connectors in place.

    • Align the heating element with the canister’s screw holes and indents so it seats properly.

    • Start a single canister screw first to lock the alignment, then install the remaining canister screws.

    • Press against the canister sides as needed to keep the halves from bulging while you install screws.

    • Reinstall the two sensors onto the heater canister in their original positions.

    • Slot the heater canister into the rear bulkhead tabs, then set it onto the canister stool.

    • Fit the canister finger into the small slot on the stool, then reinstall the single screw to secure the canister.

    • Reconnect the red and blue wires to the heater canister.

    • Use the belt to pull the drum back into position, and seat it between the rear bulkhead and the rear roller wheels.

    • Loop the belt onto the motor pulley, then pull the idler pulley back to apply tension and secure the belt.

    • Note: The video notes this can take strength in both hands.

    • Set the front bulkhead onto the four chassis tabs on the sides of the dryer.

    • Press inward on the dryer side walls if the bulkhead tabs won’t slot into place.

    • Reconnect the moisture sensor harness.

    • Reinstall the screws securing the bulkhead and the blower cover.

    • Note: The number of screws depends on whether you kept the blower cover assembled as a unit or separated it.

    • Note: The video suggests installing the blower cover onto the bulkhead first, rather than installing pieces individually.

    • Route the wire harness through the two plastic tabs on the bulkhead before installing the top bracket.

    • Caution: The video notes there usually isn’t enough clearance to install the harness after the bracket is installed.

    • Install the top metal bracket, engaging its side fingers into the frame, and reinstall the four screws.

    • Reconnect the door light harness.

    • Reconnect the door switch harness before putting the front and door assembly back on.

    • Hook the front onto the bottom fingers, then pivot the door into the two metal retaining clips.

    • Use a flathead screwdriver to pull up the retaining clips if they were deformed during removal.

    • Reinstall the four screws securing the top front of the door frame.

    • Reinstall the two screws inside the door opening near the lint filter housing.

    • Snap the plastic retainer at the top of the metal bracket into place, if your model uses one.

    • Slot the control console into the holes near the door area, and pivot it up into position.

    • Reconnect any wiring harnesses on the console.

    • Reinstall the two screws that secure the console.

    • Slide the top panel into place from the rear, and push it forward to seat it.

    • Reinstall the screws at the top rear of the dryer.

Conclusion

If the dryer still won’t heat after reassembly, recheck the red and blue heater wires, the moisture sensor harness, and the sensor wiring on the heater canister and blower housing. The video also notes that lint buildup, a clogged blower housing, or other internal damage can cause major performance problems, so clean and inspect the interior while it’s open.

Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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224 Guides authored

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