Samsung Console Top Dryer Heating Element Replacement

Slide a putty knife under the front edge of the top panel and press the two locking tabs to pop the lid open.

Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the top panel from the back of the dryer.

Push the top panel forward and lift it up.

Reinstall the two screws so the lid can lean back against the dryer without falling off.

Use a screwdriver to remove the seven screws securing the door area to the dryer.

Depress the two metal retention tabs, and pull the door outward while lifting slowly to avoid damaging the wiring.

Set the door on top of the dryer to make it easier to disconnect the door switch wire harness.

Use a screwdriver to remove the six bulkhead screws.

Disconnect and remove the moisture sensor near the heating element in the lower right corner of the dryer.

Lift the bulkhead up to release it from its tabs, and remove the bulkhead and blower cover.

Reach into the cabinet and unhook the idler pulley from the belt.

Use the belt to lift the drum up, then pull the drum forward and out of the cabinet.

Clean out lint inside the dryer before servicing the heating system.

Inspect the heating element for visible damage.

Take a photo of the heating system wiring so you can match the connections during reassembly.

Remove a single wire connector from the heating element to prevent false readings during testing.

Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to remove stubborn connectors without damaging the spade terminals.

Set a multimeter to continuity or resistance mode, and probe both heating element spade terminals at the same time.

Replace the heating element if it doesn’t show continuity or it isn’t about 10 ohms.

Remove a single wire connector from the high-limit thermostat or thermal cutoff before testing it.

Use a multimeter continuity test, and replace the part if the meter does not show continuity.

Locate the thermistor and thermal fuse behind the blower housing, beside the motor and idler pulley.

Remove a wire connector from each part, and remove each sensor if needed, since the video says they’re held in by a single screw on this unit.

Test the thermal fuse with continuity or resistance, and replace it if the meter shows an open line with no value.

Test the black thermistor in resistance mode, and expect about 12 kΩ at 70 °F (21 °C).

Replace the thermistor if it reads outside roughly 10 kΩ to 14 kΩ at room temperature.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the heater housing in place.

Remove the sensors from the heater canister, or leave the wiring connected and remove the thermostat and thermal cutoff screws instead.

Remove approximately eight screws around the heater canister to open it and expose the heating element.

Use needle-nose pliers to flatten the tiny metal retaining tabs on both heating element terminals.

Pull the element terminals free, and lift the heating element out of the canister and ceramic housing.

Set the new heating element into the canister and thread the element terminals onto the ceramic block posts.

Reassemble the canister and reinstall the canister screws, bending the thin metal slightly if needed to align the screw holes.

Position the heater canister back in the dryer the same way it came out, and reinstall the two mounting screws.

Reinstall the thermostat and thermal cutoff using their screws, and reinstall any other heater canister sensors.

Lower the drum into the cabinet using the belt as a handle, and seat the drum on the rear bulkhead.

Thread the belt back onto the motor, and route it around the idler pulley to apply tension.

Rotate the drum by hand to confirm the belt is routed correctly and the blower moves as the drum turns.

Fit the bulkhead back into place, making sure the bulkhead tabs seat correctly before installing screws.

Reinstall the six bulkhead screws, including the two screws at the vent housing.

Set the bottom of the door onto the metal hinges, and position the metal retention clips.

Reinstall the seven door screws in their original locations.

Lower the top panel, and make sure it seats on the plastic posts so it locks into place.

Restore power and run a heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats normally.

Check every electrical connection in the dryer if it still won’t heat after replacing parts and matching the wiring.

Consider other causes mentioned in the video, including a failing motor centrifugal switch, a bad motor, or a severed wire.