Samsung Console Top Dryer Heating Element Replacement

Introduction

If a Samsung dryer runs but won’t heat, a failed heating element or a safety sensor in the heating circuit is a common cause. This guide shows how to open the dryer, test the heater and related sensors with a multimeter, replace the heating element, and reassemble the machine.

Note: Disassembly on similar-looking LG and Kenmore dryers is almost the same. The video does not show removing a full rear panel for access; it accesses the heater from the front after removing the door, bulkhead, and drum.

What you need

Step 1 Disconnect power

Unplug the dryer from the wall, or turn off the breaker to the dryer.
Note: The video states the procedure is almost the same on similar-looking LG and Kenmore dryers.

Step 2 Release the top panel

Slide a putty knife under the front edge of the top panel, and press the two locking tabs to pop the lid open.
Note: Some dryers have stiff clips or too little clearance for this method.
Caution: The video does not provide steps to remove a full rear panel, only an alternate way to open the top from the back.

Step 3 Open the top panel from the back

Use a screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the top panel from the back of the dryer.
Push the top panel forward, and lift it up.
Reinstall the two screws so the lid can lean back against the dryer without falling off.
Caution: If the lid falls, it can hang by the main board wires and damage them.

Step 4 Remove the door assembly

Use a screwdriver to remove the seven screws securing the door area to the dryer.
Remove four screws along the top under the open lid, two screws at the lint filter, and one screw near the door switch.
Depress the two metal retention tabs, and pull the door outward while lifting slowly to avoid damaging the wiring.
Set the door on top of the dryer to make it easier to disconnect the door switch wire harness.

Step 5 Remove the bulkhead and blower cover

Use a screwdriver to remove the six bulkhead screws.
Remove four screws on the bulkhead and two screws on the dryer vent housing at the bottom.
Disconnect and remove the moisture sensor near the heating element in the lower right corner of the dryer.
Lift the bulkhead up to release it from its tabs, and remove the bulkhead and blower cover.

Step 6 Remove the drum

Reach into the cabinet and unhook the idler pulley from the belt.
Use the belt to lift the drum up, then pull the drum forward and out of the cabinet.
Note: The cabinet has cutouts on each side that let the drum come out quickly.

Step 7 Clean lint and document wiring

Clean out lint inside the dryer before servicing the heating system.
Inspect the heating element for visible damage.
Take a photo of the heating system wiring so you can match the connections during reassembly.

Step 8 Test the heating element with a multimeter

Remove a single wire connector from the heating element to prevent false readings during testing.
Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to remove stubborn connectors without damaging the spade terminals.
Set a multimeter to continuity or resistance mode, and probe both heating element spade terminals at the same time.
Replace the heating element if it doesn’t show continuity or it isn’t about 10 ohms.
Check for a grounded element by probing one spade terminal and the metal canister, and replace the element immediately if you get continuity.

Step 9 Test the high-limit thermostat and thermal cutoff

Remove a single wire connector from the high-limit thermostat or thermal cutoff before testing it.
Use a multimeter continuity test, and replace the part if the meter does not show continuity.
Replace both the thermal cutoff and the thermostat if the thermal cutoff is dead.
Note: The video warns the thermostat can falsely overfeed heat and cause the thermal cutoff to fail.

Step 10 Test the thermal fuse and thermistor

Locate the thermistor and thermal fuse behind the blower housing, beside the motor and idler pulley.
Remove a wire connector from each part, and remove each sensor if needed, since the video says they’re held in by a single screw on this unit.
Test the thermal fuse with continuity or resistance, and replace it if the meter shows an open line with no value.
Test the black thermistor in resistance mode, and expect about 12 kΩ at 70 °F (21 °C).
Replace the thermistor if it reads outside roughly 10 kΩ to 14 kΩ at room temperature.

Step 11 Remove the heater canister

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the heater housing in place.
Remove the screw at the top of the canister and the screw at the front of the canister.
Remove the sensors from the heater canister, or leave the wiring connected and remove the thermostat and thermal cutoff screws instead.

Step 12 Remove the old heating element

Remove approximately eight screws around the heater canister to open it and expose the heating element.
Use needle-nose pliers to flatten the tiny metal retaining tabs on both heating element terminals.
Pull the element terminals free, and lift the heating element out of the canister and ceramic housing.

Step 13 Install the new heating element into the canister

Set the new heating element into the canister, and thread the element terminals onto the ceramic block posts.
Install the element wires in the same orientation as the original so the wires don’t end up on the wrong ceramic block post.
Crimp the terminal retaining tabs back onto the terminals to lock the element in place.
Caution: The video says crimping is delicate and both sides of each terminal may need bent.
Reassemble the canister and reinstall the canister screws, bending the thin metal slightly if needed to align the screw holes.

Step 14 Reinstall the heater canister and reconnect wiring

Position the heater canister back in the dryer the same way it came out, and reinstall the two mounting screws.
Reinstall the thermostat and thermal cutoff using their screws, and reinstall any other heater canister sensors.
Reconnect all wiring to match the photo you took before disassembly.

Step 15 Reinstall the drum and belt

Lower the drum into the cabinet using the belt as a handle, and seat the drum on the rear bulkhead.
Thread the belt back onto the motor, and route it around the idler pulley to apply tension.
Rotate the drum by hand to confirm the belt is routed correctly and the blower moves as the drum turns.

Step 16 Reinstall the bulkhead

Fit the bulkhead back into place, making sure the bulkhead tabs seat correctly before installing screws.
Caution: The video notes the casing can shift, and the bulkhead may need a few adjustments to fit correctly.
Reconnect the moisture sensor harness while reinstalling the bulkhead.
Reinstall the six bulkhead screws, including the two screws at the vent housing.

Step 17 Reinstall the door and top panel

Reconnect the door switch wire harness before fully installing the door.
Set the bottom of the door onto the metal hinges, and position the metal retention clips.
Reinstall the seven door screws in their original locations.
Lower the top panel, and make sure it seats on the plastic posts so it locks into place.

Step 18 Test the dryer and troubleshoot if it still won’t heat

Restore power and run a heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats normally.
Check every electrical connection in the dryer if it still won’t heat after replacing parts and matching the wiring.
Caution: The video recommends hiring a technician to test the control board relay because it requires live voltage.
Consider other causes mentioned in the video, including a failing motor centrifugal switch, a bad motor, or a severed wire.

Conclusion

If the dryer heats after reassembly, keep the interior free of lint buildup, since the video notes lint can be a major contributor to heater failure. If the dryer still won’t heat and you’ve verified all connectors, the video narrows the remaining likely causes to live-voltage control board testing, the motor and its centrifugal switch, or damaged wiring, and recommends using a technician for live-voltage diagnostics.