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Roper Dryer Heating Element Replacement

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

Introduction

If your Roper dryer runs but won’t heat or won’t dry clothes, a failed heating element or a failed heat sensor can be the cause. This guide shows how to access the rear heating system, replace the heating element, and replace the related heat sensors commonly serviced at the same time: the thermal cutoff (high-limit thermostat), the thermostat on the heater housing, the thermal fuse, and the cycling thermostat.

This procedure was written using a common Whirlpool-family Roper dryer with rear access, but screw counts and mounting details can vary slightly by model.

What you need

  1. Edit

    • Unplug the dryer’s power cord, or switch off the breaker that supplies the dryer.

    • If the dryer was recently running, let it cool before working near the heater housing.

  2. Edit

    • Move the dryer so you can comfortably access the back.

    • Use a 1/4 inch socket wrench or a 1/4 inch hex screwdriver to remove the nine to 10 screws around the rear panel.

    • Pull the sheet-metal rear panel off the dryer.

    • Wear gloves if possible, because sheet metal edges can be sharp.

  3. Edit

    • Identify the heating element canister and the small sensors mounted around the heater area.

    • Replace the heating element first, then replace the smaller sensors.

  4. Edit

    • Take a photo of the wire locations on the heater housing thermostat so you can reinstall them correctly.

    • Use a 1/4 inch socket wrench or a 1/4 inch hex screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the heating element canister, one on each side.

    • Roll the bottom of the canister outward, then slide the canister downward to remove it.

  5. Edit

    • Insert the canister at an angle, roll it inward, and push it upward into position.

    • Align the mounting holes, and reinstall the two mounting screws.

    • If the new canister metal is narrower than the dryer housing, push and work the sides of the metal until the screw holes line up.

  6. Edit

    • Take a photo of the wire orientation so the wires go back on in the same locations.

    • Transfer the wires to the new sensor before removing the old sensor so you don’t have to guess wire placement.

    • Remove the fastener(s) securing the thermal cutoff, which is typically held by a small metal strap and a screw or by two screws.

    • Remove the old sensor, install the new one in the same position, and secure it with the original fastener(s).

  7. Edit

    • Identify each wire on the thermostat, including the small extra wire from the timer, and record where each one connects.

    • Move the small extra wire to the small terminal on the new thermostat, and move any wire that must transfer to the bottom of the element to match the original layout.

    • Remove any separate red jumper wire if the new thermostat has a welded metal jumper that replaces it.

    • Remove the old thermostat, fit the new thermostat so the brass piece sits flush over the heater housing, and reconnect the wires in the same orientation.

    • If the housing uses a hook-style mount, slide the thermostat hole onto the hook, make it flush, and crimp the metal tab on the element as much as possible to hold it tight.

    • Some thermostat and element combinations don’t use screws, so focus on a flush fit and solid crimping if no screw holes are used.

  8. Edit

    • Remove the terminals from the thermal fuse.

    • Transfer the wires onto the new thermal fuse first, matching the orientation, so you don’t have to guess which wire goes where.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex screwdriver to remove the screw holding the old fuse, and remove the fuse.

    • Insert the new fuse by engaging its lip, press it down slightly, and reinstall the screw.

  9. Edit

    • Record the wire orientation on the cycling thermostat: striped white wire on the bottom, solid red on top, and purple wires on the side terminals.

    • Move the wires from the old thermostat to the same terminals on the new thermostat.

    • Use needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to help remove tight wire terminals if needed.

    • Remove the old cycling thermostat, position the new one with one side fitted into the metal housing, and secure the other side with the screw.

  10. Edit

    • Reinstall the rear panel.

    • Use a 1/4 inch hex screwdriver to reinstall the nine to 10 rear-panel screws.

    • Restore power, and run a heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats properly.

Conclusion

If the dryer still doesn’t heat after replacing these parts, check for a restricted vent, because poor airflow can contribute to heating failures.

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Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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