Maytag Washing Machine Suspension Rod Replacement

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.

Turn off both water supply valves to reduce the chance of leaks while moving the washer.

Move the washer to a clear workspace where you can tilt it safely.

Place a towel on the floor in case a small amount of water drips out when the washer is tilted.

Open the lid and press down on the agitator or washplate as hard as you can, then let go.

Watch how the tub rebounds to judge how springy it is.

Rock the tub left and right to check how much side-to-side play it has.

A good suspension returns to center immediately and doesn’t keep bouncing vertically or side-to-side.

If the tub keeps bouncing or doesn’t re-center, the suspension rods are likely worn out.

Find the washer’s model number on the appliance label and write it down.

Confirm the model lists a compatible suspension rod kit before buying parts.

Use a complete W10189077 / W10820048-style kit that includes matching plastic bushings and cups.

This procedure applies to many Whirlpool-designed top-load models sold as Maytag, Whirlpool, Amana, and Roper, including Bravos and Cabrio platforms.

Gather a 1/4 inch nut driver, masking tape, and a rubber grip glove.

Gather a plastic screwdriver for removing and installing the plastic suspension cup pieces.

Use a glove with grip because old rods often get coated with soap and oils and can be very hard to pull out by hand.

Have a putty knife available because some models use front clips instead of rear screws to release the top.

Open the lid.

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the three rear screws if the control lights are on the front near the timer.

Remove the two rear screws near the hinges and remove the screw on the power cord cover plate.

Pull the top toward you about two inches, lift it up, then push it back toward the rear about two inches to unhook it from its bracket.

Use a putty knife to press in the front clips instead of removing rear screws on some Bravos, Cabrio, and similar designs.

If the cabinet metal is bent or damaged, work slowly because the unhooking motion can be harder.

Use masking tape to secure the lid to the top so it can’t flop around.

Anchor the tape under the top if you want a tighter hold.

Avoid tapes that leave heavy residue because you’ll be taping painted and finished surfaces.

Lean the top safely against a wall or sturdy support so it can’t smash into the control panel.

Put on the rubber grip glove and reach into the cabinet to grab a suspension rod.

Pull up on the suspension rod to lift it out of the plastic housing it rests in.

Rotate the rod’s plastic piece about 90 degrees on many stock Whirlpool-style rods so it can slide out of the housing.

Lower the freed rod gently back down into the cabinet so you can remove it from below.

Tilt the washer to the side to access the bottom and pull the rod out from underneath.

Lay the washer fully on its side if needed, but expect some water to get onto the floor.

Wiggle the rod if the shepherd’s hook end gets stuck.

Guide the rod out through both sets of holes because it has to pass through two locations to come out.

Insert the new suspension rod from the bottom in the same path as the old rod.

Confirm the rod passes through both sets of holes before setting the washer back down.

Rest the bottom spring on the washer chassis lip before you level the washer back onto the floor.

Lower the washer onto the floor in a controlled way so the rod doesn’t shift out of position.

Use a plastic screwdriver to remove the plastic cup from the previous rod location.

Install the new plastic cup and the plastic rest that the shepherd’s hook sits on.

Check the orientation because some replacement cup designs require the rod to rest at 180 degrees instead of 90 degrees.

Lift up on the washer tub and carefully insert the rod’s hook into the cup.

If you can’t lift the tub enough, lay the washer on its side to reduce resistance and try again.

Repeat the unhooking and replacement process for the other three suspension rods.

Work one rod at a time if space is limited because it’s easier to keep parts from shifting.

Replace each rod by unhooking it at the top, pulling it out from underneath, inserting the new rod, and hooking it back into the cup.

Confirm every rod has its plastic bushing and cup installed and fully seated.

Do not mix plastic bushings from different rod sets because mismatched parts can make the tub sit unlevel.

An unlevel tub can look like a small issue, but spin mode will amplify it dramatically.

Lower the top into place and use the reverse of the release motion to hook it back onto its bracket.

Slide the top about two inches in each direction as needed to align and lock it in place.

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to reinstall the rear screws and the power cord cover plate screw if your model uses them.

Remove the masking tape from the lid and top.

Press down on the agitator or washplate again and confirm the tub returns to center without bouncing.

Rock the tub side-to-side and confirm there is significantly less play than before.

Run a load to confirm the washer no longer jumps or bangs during spin.

If shaking continues, recheck that each rod is routed through both chassis holes and that every plastic cup and bushing is installed correctly.