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Maytag Dryer Control Board Replacement

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

What you need

    • Keep the dryer fully assembled during any powered control checks.

    • Unplug the dryer before removing any panel or testing resistance.

    • If the dryer uses gas, close the gas supply valve before moving or tilting it.

    • Discharge static electricity before touching the control board.

    • Use an anti-static wrist strap clipped to bare metal, or touch bare metal on the frame before handling the board.

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    • Plug in the fully assembled dryer and turn the control on.

    • Press Start and confirm that the dryer only beeps or clicks and the drum does not spin.

    • Open the door and spin the drum by hand to make sure it turns freely and is not blocked.

    • Check that the dryer vent is clean and not the obvious cause of the problem.

    • Unplug the dryer again after this symptom check.

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    • Pull out the pedestal drawer if the dryer is mounted on an under-drawer pedestal.

    • Loosen the two screws in the lower front panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver.

    • Let the panel drop down and maneuver it out of the dryer.

    • Look inside the lower compartment for the service booklet used by repair technicians.

    • The booklet includes diagnostic codes, troubleshooting sequences, test pages, and wiring diagrams.

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    • Start on page one of the service booklet and read the electrostatic-discharge precautions.

    • Check the code table for any diagnostic code shown on the dryer display.

    • If no code appears, use the symptom table instead of guessing at a part.

    • Choose the row for Won’t start cycle when the start button is pressed if the dryer powers on but will not run.

    • Do not use the Won’t power up row when the controls light normally.

    • Perform each possible-cause test in the sequence shown for that symptom.

    • Follow the booklet’s references to the listed test numbers and pages.

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    • Keep your hands away from internal wiring and plug in the dryer for the powered diagnostic checks.

    • With the dryer in standby, press Plus, Minus, Plus, Minus to enter diagnostics.

    • Confirm that all the control-panel lights turn on.

    • Press each button and turn the selector to make sure the matching control beeps or clicks.

    • Press Start during the motor-and-heater test and watch the number display.

    • If the display does not show the expected number, continue with the service-booklet motor-circuit test.

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    • Open the dryer door during diagnostics and listen for a beep each time the door opens.

    • A beep when the door opens means the door switch is responding.

    • Use a wet washcloth to bridge the two metal moisture-sensor strips inside the drum.

    • Listen for the same beep from the moisture-sensor circuit.

    • If the moisture sensor does not beep, follow the service-booklet tests for that circuit before replacing the control board.

    • Unplug the dryer after the powered diagnostic checks.

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    • Unplug the dryer again because removing the top exposes wiring.

    • Remove the three screws from the back of the top panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver.

    • Slide the top panel backward and lift it off the dryer.

    • Set the panel aside where it will not bend or scratch the cabinet.

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    • Locate the control-board cover under the top panel.

    • Remove the two screws from the cover with a 1/4 inch nut driver.

    • Work the cover upward until the control board is accessible.

    • Be patient if the cover is hard to maneuver.

    • Take a clear photo of every connector on the board.

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    • Leave the dryer unplugged for resistance testing.

    • Set an ohmmeter to measure resistance.

    • Use the wiring diagram to identify connector P1-3 and P1-4 on the control board.

    • Place the probes on the light-blue wire and the dark-blue wire in that connector.

    • The service booklet lists the correct range across P1-3 and P1-4 as 1 to 6 ohms.

    • If the reading falls in that range, the machine control electronics should be replaced.

    • A reading around 1.8 to 1.9 ohms is within range for this test.

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    • Read the part number printed on the original control board before ordering or installing a replacement.

    • This dryer used control board part number 8546219.

    • Compare the replacement board to the old board and confirm that the layout and connectors match.

    • Handle the board by the edges and avoid touching the circuitry or metal contacts.

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    • Remove the screw holding the board to the metal bracket with a 1/4 inch nut driver.

    • Push the retention tabs back and down to release the board from the bracket.

    • Squeeze the wire-retainer tabs out of the cover.

    • Use pliers if the retainer tabs are too hard to squeeze by hand.

    • Do not force the tabs or connectors, because they can break.

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    • Move the connectors from the old board to the new board one at a time.

    • Use your photo as a reference so every connector returns to the same position.

    • Release each connector latch and wiggle the connector off the old board.

    • Plug each connector into the matching socket on the new board before removing another one.

    • Check that the wires and terminals are secure in each connector.

    • Some relay connectors fit very tightly, which helps keep them from working loose.

    • Squeeze the P1 connector latch to remove it and snap it onto the new board.

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    • Inspect the old board and the metal casing for fresh burn marks or scorched areas.

    • A burned area can support the diagnosis, but the ohmmeter test is the more important confirmation.

    • Wipe the old burn mark off the metal casing with a clean cloth.

    • Cleaning the casing keeps old marks from being mistaken for a future failure.

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    • Align the new board with the four pins in the metal bracket.

    • Press the board into the bracket until all four retention tabs lock in place.

    • Reinstall the board screw with a 1/4 inch nut driver.

    • Do not overtighten the screw, because the circuit board can crack.

    • Push the wire retainers back into their original holes.

    • Position the board and cover back where they normally sit under the top panel.

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    • Keep hands and tools away from the open control area before applying power.

    • Plug the dryer in only after the board is secure and every connector is fully seated.

    • Turn the control on and choose a normal drying cycle.

    • Press Start and confirm that the drum begins spinning.

    • If the dryer still only beeps or clicks, unplug it and return to the service-booklet troubleshooting sequence.

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    • Unplug the dryer again before closing the cabinet.

    • Reinstall the control-board cover with its two screws using a 1/4 inch nut driver.

    • Slide the top panel forward into place and reinstall the three rear screws.

    • Fit the lower front panel back under the drum and tighten the two screws.

    • Reinstall the pedestal drawer if you removed it.

    • Plug the dryer back in and run a short test cycle with the cabinet fully assembled.

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Conclusion

Verify every connector is seated, the wire retainers are back in their holes, and all panels are installed before running a full load. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

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