How to Troubleshoot a Criterion Washing Machine That Won't Drain

Keep shop towels ready because water usually spills when hoses or the pump housing are opened.

Tape the lid closed before tilting the washer so it can’t flip open while the machine is on its side.

Check that the end of the drain hose is set at about the same height as the rear of the washer.

Set the drain hose end about 100 cm (39 inches) above the floor.

Lower the hose if it’s routed too high because it can prevent proper draining.

Raise the hose if it’s routed too low because it can create a siphon problem that disrupts draining.

Look for a clean-out at the bottom rear of the washer if the model includes one.

Unscrew the clean-out and check for blockages at the pump area.

Remove any debris you find, and reinstall the clean-out securely.

Lower the drain hose to floor level to siphon water out of the tub, even if the pump isn’t running.

Watch for a steady flow from the hose because this confirms the drain path is at least partially open.

If no water siphons out with the hose at floor level, assume there’s an obstruction in the pump or hoses and continue to pump access.

Tilt the washer onto its front or its side to access the bottom panel area.

Locate the drain pump from underneath by finding the pump body connected to a large hose.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the pump housing area in place.

Use slip joint pliers to release the clamp and remove the tub hose from the pump.

Inspect for obstructions inside the tub outlet area, inside the tub hose, and in the hose path from the pump to the outlet drain hose.

Use a flashlight to look deep into the hoses and pump openings for debris that can block flow.

Clear any blockages you find and recheck that water can flow through the drain path.

Find the bagged wire cluster near the rear corner where the control board wiring routes.

Remove the screws from the back of the washer as needed to access the wire bag more easily.

Trace the drain pump wire from the pump into the wire cluster because wire colors can be hard to read and may vary by model.

Work slowly around any surface-mount cable tie and any cotton wrap on the wire bundle, and keep track of how it was wrapped.

Set a multimeter to ohms resistance.

Press the multimeter leads into the drain pump wire harness terminals to measure the pump’s resistance.

Replace the pump if the reading isn’t around 16–17 Ω, using about a 20% margin as a practical pass range.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three or four screws securing the pump housing to the pump motor.

Separate the pump housing from the motor to expose the impeller paddles inside.

Rotate the impeller by hand and feel for three or four firm segments that resist and then spring forward due to the internal magnets.

Replace the pump if the impeller feels very loose or stripped because it won’t move water even if the electrical test looks good.

Route the pump wiring back through the wire cluster the same way it was originally routed.

Mount the wire bag back on the side of the washer using the existing metal wire tie.

Reconnect the tub hose to the pump and secure the clamp.

Reinstall the three screws that secure the pump housing to the drum area.

Access the control board connections from the back of the washer or with the washer laid on its front.

Unplug the drain pump connector at the control board labeled CN5.

Use a multimeter to test continuity or resistance between pin three and pin six on the wiring that runs to the pump.

Replace the control board if you have continuity from the board to the pump but the washer still won’t trigger the pump to run.

Repair the harness if you don’t have continuity because the wiring from the board to the pump is faulty, often within the wire bag area.