How to Fix a Whirlpool Washing Machine That Shakes

Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.

Turn off both water supply valves, and disconnect the fill hoses if you need to tilt the washer.

Set a bubble level on the washer, and check it side-to-side and front-to-back.

Adjust the legs until the washer is level.

Turn the legs by hand, or use a wrench if the legs won’t move by hand on your model.

Plug the washer in, and make sure all control lights are off and the tub is empty.

Rotate the cycle knob counterclockwise once, clockwise three times, counterclockwise once, then clockwise once.

Confirm all lights begin flashing, then rotate the knob clockwise four times.

Confirm only the rinse light is green, then press Start to run recalibration.

Open the lid, and press down hard on the washer tub area from the top.

Treat the rods as good if the tub snaps back into place without bouncing.

Treat the rods as bad if the tub bounces up and down or side-to-side after you press it.

Push the tub toward the sides to check for side-to-side bouncing as well.

Tape the lid closed with masking tape.

Use a screwdriver to remove the three screws on the rear of the washer top panel.

Remove the left screw, the right screw, and the screw holding the wire trunk harness cover slightly left of center.

Pull the top toward you from the front, lift it up, then hinge it rearward onto the two metal tabs.

Use pliers or a slip-jaw wrench under the top panel to push a suspension rod up, and unhook it from the retention cap.

Close and latch the lid, then tilt the washer back or to the side to pull the rods out from underneath if your model has no tub slots.

Reach up from underneath to grab a rod if it doesn’t drop out of the housing when tilted.

Separate the rod’s top cap by wedging a small flathead screwdriver or a dental pick between the cap halves.

Inspect the foam insert, and treat it as bad if it slides too easily on the rod.

Press the screwdriver into the foam, and compress the spring with your fingers to help pull the foam out.

Replace the foam with a properly sized piece cut from a foam mat if the original foam is worn.

Apply damping grease to the foam insert, the rod above and below the insert, and the grease reservoir under the cap.

Apply a small amount of damping grease to the plastic cap and cup set in the washer housing if the caps are in good shape.

Tilt the washer backward, and set each rod back into position so it stays seated when you lower the washer.

Lower the washer to the floor, open the top panel, and pull each rod up into the cup and cap set.

Use pliers to pull the rod hook up through the cap, or use another rod hook as a pull tool if you’re working in pairs.

Angle the hook about 90° so it seats and can’t fall back out of the cap.

Recalibrate the washer again with no clothes in the tub after repairing or replacing suspension rods.

Rotate the inner basket by hand, and watch for left-to-right wobble relative to the outer tub.

Push the inner basket sideways, and check for play between the inner basket and outer tub.

Treat any noticeable play as likely hub wear, tub bushing wear, or both.

Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry up the cap in the center of the washplate.

Use a socket wrench with a 7/16 socket to remove the center bolt by turning it counterclockwise.

Hold the washplate or tub to keep it from turning while you loosen the bolt.

Lift the washplate off by hand, use pliers, or use a hook tool if it’s stuck.

Fill the tub above the washplate with hot water using a disconnected water supply hose.

Add a descaler such as CLR, citric acid, or a washing machine cleaner, then soak for one to two hours.

Enter diagnostics, and stop on the mode just before calibrate where two lights show cycle complete and final spin.

Press Start to enter forced manual mode, press Start again to lock the lid, turn the dial counterclockwise once until wash and rinse lights are on, then press Start.

Re-enter diagnostics and repeat agitation as needed, or pause around four minutes and restart while still in manual mode to keep agitating.

Remove the gearcase from underneath by removing the four or six 10 mm screws holding it to the washer.

Install a taller, durable replacement transmission bolt, and use a hammer with sockets and extensions to drive the gearcase out from top to bottom.

Put towels around the work area inside the tub to catch screws so they can’t fall into the machine.

Pry the u-clip out with a small flathead screwdriver, or use a larger flathead if it’s heavily rusted.

Remove the six long hub screws, loosening them by hand first and finishing with a drill on low torque if needed.

Lift the hub out, inspect the hub teeth and the gearcase splines, and clean rusty splines with CLR and a wire brush.

Release the tub cover by wedging a small plastic screwdriver under the edge and unlatching the plastic fingers around the perimeter.

Work around the cover and release about eight retainers, and expect it to get easier after the first two or three clips.

Replace the tub cover if it’s chewed up from shaking damage.

Inspect the balance ring for cracks, and spin the basket by hand to confirm you can hear water sloshing inside the ring.

Replace the balance ring if you don’t hear water sloshing or if the ring is damaged.

Lift the inner tub straight up and out once the hub and tub cover are removed.

Drive the worn tub bushing sleeve out from the back using a 5/16 deep well socket and a mini sledge.

Align the upgraded replacement sleeve with the tub spokes, press it in, then tap it flush using a 2x4 or about 1.5 inch-wide PVC pipe.

Install a gearcase shim instead if you don’t want to knock the sleeve out, using the thinnest shim that fits and tapping it into place.

Reinstall the tub by lifting it in, rotating it, and pressing it firmly down until you can see the top and bottom rows of gearcase splines.

Install the drive block onto the gearcase shaft, and tap lightly with a socket if needed but don’t force it down too far.

Set the flat metal hub in place so it fits between the hub and tub ridges.

Install the hub screws, tightening them slowly in a crisscross pattern so the tub rises evenly to meet the hub.

Install the lock washer with the lip side facing down toward the hub, and apply a small amount of threadlocker to the inner threads.

Tighten the lock washer with a TB123 spanner wrench, and tap it about a quarter turn with a hammer to fully lock it.

Reinstall the washplate, apply threadlocker to the washplate bolt, and tighten the bolt with a 7/16 socket.

Reinstall the tub cover by aligning the fingers and pressing it down until all clips latch.

Lower the top panel by aligning it, pulling forward, pressing down, then pressing back until it locks.

Reinstall the three rear screws that secure the top panel and wire harness cover.