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GE Gas Oven Bake Igniter Replacement

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

What you need

    • Turn a surface burner to Light and verify that it sparks and produces a steady flame.

    • If the top burners do not ignite, resolve the gas or regulator problem before working on the oven circuit.

    • Make sure the range power cord is plugged in so the igniter receives voltage.

    • Set the oven control to Bake and choose roughly 350–450 °F to activate the bake relay.

    • Pull out the warming drawer and slide underneath the chassis to reach the safety valve area.

    • Locate the safety valve on the right side and the wire pairs that leave the valve toward each igniter.

    • Find the white wire that feeds the lower bake igniter.

    • Find the blue wire that feeds the upper broil igniter for later comparison.

    • Rotate the multimeter to the 2 A ⁄ 20 A setting to read low current.

    • Place the amp-clamp around the white bake wire only and confirm no other conductors are inside the jaws.

    • Angle the meter so the display is visible while you are under the oven.

    • Let the igniter heat for about one minute and watch the current rise.

    • Normal current is 2.8–3.4 A; the safety valve will not open below this range.

    • A reading that stalls below 2.8 A, drifts downward, or shows zero indicates a failing or open igniter.

    • If the reading is borderline, run a broil comparison to confirm.

    • Turn the control off, move the clamp to the blue broil wire, and set Broil.

    • A healthy broil igniter jumps near 3.3 A then levels around 2.85 A in about a minute.

    • A significant difference between bake and broil readings confirms the bake igniter is weak.

    • Turn the oven controls off and unplug the range before touching any wiring.

    • Working on live circuits can cause shock or short-circuit damage.

    • Inside the cavity, loosen the two rear thumb screws with a flat-head screwdriver.

    • Lift the rear of the plate, slide it forward, and remove it to reveal the burner and igniter.

    • Check for heavy white oxidation or crumbling ceramics on the igniter tip.

    • A glowing yet oxidized igniter often cannot draw enough current to open the valve.

    • Remove the quarter-inch hex screw at the front of the burner tube.

    • From underneath, back out the two rear hex screws securing the tube to the chassis.

    • Unplug the spade connector at the safety valve and the harness connector leading to the control board.

    • Lift the burner tube out of the oven and place it on a stable surface.

    • Take out the two quarter-inch hex screws that mount the igniter to the tube and set the failed igniter aside.

    • Handle the replacement igniter by its ceramic base and avoid touching the heating element cage.

    • Align the bracket holes and secure the new igniter with the original hex screws.

    • Cut the original GE harness, strip each lead about 13 mm, and twist it with the leads from the new igniter.

    • Secure the splice with the supplied ceramic wire nut to protect it from heat.

    • Guide the igniter wires through the opening while sliding the burner tube back onto the gas orifice.

    • Reinstall the two rear screws and the single front screw to lock the tube in place.

    • Attach one igniter lead to the safety valve terminal and the other to the harness connector going to the control board.

    • Push each spade connector fully onto the terminal to prevent intermittent operation.

    • Plug the range back in, clamp the meter on the white bake wire, and select Bake 350 °F.

    • A good igniter spikes to about 3.5 A and settles near 3 A within seconds, proving the repair.

    • Slide the floor plate into the front channel, lower the rear edge, and tighten the two thumb screws.

    • Reinsert the warming drawer and verify smooth movement.

    • Light a surface burner and run a short bake cycle to confirm reliable ignition and no gas odor.

    • A healthy orange glow and steady heat mean your GE oven is back in service.

Conclusion

With amperage back in the 3 A range, the safety valve now opens quickly and the oven heats normally. Keep the clamp-meter method in mind: when an igniter glows but does not reach 2.8 A, replacement is the reliable fix.

Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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