Introduction
Use this guide to diagnose and cure an oven that glows but never heats. You will confirm gas supply, measure igniter amperage, interpret the readings, and install a universal replacement igniter. The same procedure applies to most GE-made ranges and many other brands that use a clamp-style igniter.
What you need
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Step 1 Confirm gas supply at the cooktop
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Turn a surface burner to Light and verify that it sparks and produces a steady flame.
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Step 2 Energize the bake circuit for testing
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Make sure the range power cord is plugged in so the igniter receives voltage.
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Set the oven control to Bake and choose roughly 350–450 °F to activate the bake relay.
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Step 3 Access wiring below the oven
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Pull out the warming drawer and slide underneath the chassis to reach the safety valve area.
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Locate the safety valve on the right side and the wire pairs that leave the valve toward each igniter.
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Step 5 Clamp the multimeter on the bake wire
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Rotate the multimeter to the 2 A ⁄ 20 A setting to read low current.
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Place the amp-clamp around the white bake wire only and confirm no other conductors are inside the jaws.
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Angle the meter so the display is visible while you are under the oven.
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Step 6 Interpret bake igniter amperage
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Let the igniter heat for about one minute and watch the current rise.
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Normal current is 2.8–3.4 A; the safety valve will not open below this range.
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Step 7 Compare broil igniter current
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Turn the control off, move the clamp to the blue broil wire, and set Broil.
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A healthy broil igniter jumps near 3.3 A then levels around 2.85 A in about a minute.
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Step 8 Disconnect electrical power
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Turn the oven controls off and unplug the range before touching any wiring.
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Step 9 Remove the oven floor plate
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Inside the cavity, loosen the two rear thumb screws with a flat-head screwdriver.
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Lift the rear of the plate, slide it forward, and remove it to reveal the burner and igniter.
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Step 10 Assess igniter condition visually
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Check for heavy white oxidation or crumbling ceramics on the igniter tip.
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Step 11 Detach burner tube and wiring
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Remove the quarter-inch hex screw at the front of the burner tube.
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From underneath, back out the two rear hex screws securing the tube to the chassis.
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Unplug the spade connector at the safety valve and the harness connector leading to the control board.
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Step 12 Remove the old igniter
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Lift the burner tube out of the oven and place it on a stable surface.
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Take out the two quarter-inch hex screws that mount the igniter to the tube and set the failed igniter aside.
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Step 13 Install the new igniter on the tube
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Align the bracket holes and secure the new igniter with the original hex screws.
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Step 14 Splice the connector leads
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Cut the original GE harness, strip each lead about 13 mm, and twist it with the leads from the new igniter.
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Secure the splice with the supplied ceramic wire nut to protect it from heat.
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Step 15 Reinstall the burner tube assembly
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Guide the igniter wires through the opening while sliding the burner tube back onto the gas orifice.
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Reinstall the two rear screws and the single front screw to lock the tube in place.
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Step 16 Reconnect igniter wiring
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Attach one igniter lead to the safety valve terminal and the other to the harness connector going to the control board.
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Step 17 Confirm correct amperage with the new igniter
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Plug the range back in, clamp the meter on the white bake wire, and select Bake 350 °F.
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A good igniter spikes to about 3.5 A and settles near 3 A within seconds, proving the repair.
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Step 18 Reassemble the oven cavity
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Slide the floor plate into the front channel, lower the rear edge, and tighten the two thumb screws.
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Reinsert the warming drawer and verify smooth movement.
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Step 19 Run a final functional test
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Light a surface burner and run a short bake cycle to confirm reliable ignition and no gas odor.
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With amperage back in the 3 A range, the safety valve now opens quickly and the oven heats normally. Keep the clamp-meter method in mind: when an igniter glows but does not reach 2.8 A, replacement is the reliable fix.