Introduction
Use this guide if your gas oven igniter glows but the burner never lights. You will confirm gas supply, measure igniter current, interpret the readings, and replace the bake igniter if needed. This procedure fits most GE-made ranges and many other models that use a clamp-style igniter.
What you need
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Step 1 Confirm gas supply at the cooktop
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Turn a surface burner to Light and verify that it sparks and produces a steady flame.
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Step 2 Power the bake circuit for testing
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Make sure the range power cord is plugged in so the igniter receives voltage.
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Set the oven control to Bake and choose roughly 350–450 °F to activate the bake relay.
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Step 3 Access wiring below the oven
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Pull out the warming drawer and slide underneath the chassis to reach the safety valve area.
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Locate the safety valve on the right side and the wire pairs that leave the valve toward each igniter.
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Step 5 Clamp the meter to the bake wire
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Rotate the multimeter to the 2 A ⁄ 20 A setting to read low current.
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Place the amp-clamp around the white bake wire only and confirm no other conductors are inside the jaws.
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Angle the meter so the display is visible while you are under the oven.
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Step 6 Interpret the bake igniter current
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Let the igniter heat for about one minute and watch the current rise.
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Normal current is 2.8–3.4 A; the safety valve will not open below this range.
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Step 7 Compare the broil igniter current
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Turn the control off, move the clamp to the blue broil wire, and set Broil.
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A healthy broil igniter jumps near 3.3 A then levels around 2.85 A in about a minute.
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Step 8 Disconnect electrical power
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Turn the oven controls off and unplug the range before touching any wiring.
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Step 9 Remove the oven floor plate
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Inside the cavity, loosen the two rear thumb screws with a flat-head screwdriver.
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Lift the rear of the plate, slide it forward, and remove it to reveal the burner and igniter.
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Step 10 Inspect the igniter visually
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Check for heavy white oxidation or crumbling ceramics on the igniter tip.
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Step 11 Detach burner tube and wiring
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Remove the quarter-inch hex screw at the front of the burner tube with a nut driver or optional cordless driver.
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From underneath, back out the two rear hex screws securing the tube to the chassis.
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Unplug the spade connector at the safety valve and the harness connector leading to the control board.
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Step 12 Remove the old igniter
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Lift the burner tube out of the oven and place it on a stable surface.
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Take out the two quarter-inch hex screws that mount the igniter to the tube and set the failed igniter aside.
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Step 13 Install the new igniter
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Align the bracket holes and secure the new igniter with the original hex screws.
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Step 14 Splice the connector leads
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Cut the original GE harness, strip each lead about 13 mm, and twist it with the leads from the new igniter.
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Secure the splice with the supplied ceramic wire nut to protect it from heat.
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Step 15 Reinstall the burner tube assembly
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Guide the igniter wires through the opening while sliding the burner tube back onto the gas orifice.
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Reinstall the two rear screws and the single front screw to lock the tube in place.
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Step 16 Reconnect igniter wiring
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Attach one igniter lead to the safety valve terminal and the other to the harness connector going to the control board.
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Step 17 Confirm the new igniter current
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Plug the range back in, clamp the meter on the white bake wire, and select Bake 350 °F.
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A good igniter spikes to about 3.5 A and settles near 3 A within seconds, proving the repair.
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Step 18 Reassemble the oven cavity
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Slide the floor plate into the front channel, lower the rear edge, and tighten the two thumb screws.
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Reinsert the warming drawer and verify smooth movement.
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Step 19 Run a final bake test
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Light a surface burner and run a short bake cycle to confirm reliable ignition and no gas odor.
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A bake igniter that glows but stays below about 2.8 A is usually too weak to open the safety valve reliably. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.