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GE Electric Dryer Mica Heating Element Replacement

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

What you need

    • Unplug the dryer from its power source and slide the cabinet forward so the back panel is accessible.

    • Wear cut-resistant gloves and long sleeves before touching the chassis because GE dryers contain many sharp edges.

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    • Remove the two ¼-inch hex screws located at the lower corners of the rear panel.

    • Strike both console ends with the palm to push the console rearward until its front tabs release.

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    • Lift the loosened console upward to rest on top of the cabinet.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws at the upper rear corners of the console housing.

    • Re-insert the console tabs into the lid slots and press down so the lid remains attached for later hinging.

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    • Open the dryer door and locate the two Phillips screws hidden under the front lip of the lid opening.

    • Remove both screws and gently swing the lid back toward the wall, using the console as a rest.

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    • Remove the quarter-inch hex screw on each side of the front panel near the top corners.

    • Keep your gloved fingers clear of the razor-sharp side panels while loosening these screws.

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    • Detach the drum-light harness from the left top corner of the front panel if your model is equipped with it.

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    • Tilt the front panel forward and support it so the short door-switch harness is visible.

    • Slide the plastic shield aside, press the latch and unplug the door-switch connector.

    • Lift the panel straight up to clear the three lower locating fingers and move it away from the dryer.

    • Do not yank the harness; its limited length can break the switch or bend the connector pins.

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    • Reach through the front opening and pull the idler pulley to the right to slacken the belt.

    • Rest the pulley bracket on the small metal tab of the motor mount to hold tension clear.

    • Slide the belt off the motor shaft and idler pulley.

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    • Lift the drum slightly by the belt, pull it forward and remove it from the cabinet.

    • Watch for the belt catching on the motor pulley and free it if necessary to avoid bending the belt.

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    • Unplug the two sensor wires on the upper left of the heater pan.

    • Unplug the sensor wire on the upper right of the pan.

    • Remove the purple supply wire and the two blue element wires from the heater terminals.

    • Use needle-nose pliers or a flat blade screwdriver to pry the terminals straight off without twisting.

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    • Remove the four ¼-inch hex screws holding the heater pan to the cabinet.

    • Hold the pan with one hand while removing the final screw so it does not drop and cut the wiring.

    • Pull the pan completely out and place it on a flat work surface.

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    • Bend the locking tab away from the mica heater using pliers or a flat blade screwdriver.

    • Rotate the old heater counter-clockwise until its tabs clear the slots in the pan.

    • Lift the heater out, working around any warped tabs until it is free.

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    • Place the new aftermarket mica heater element into the lower slots of the pan, keeping the terminals oriented like the original.

    • Press the heater evenly so it sits flush all around the rim.

    • Rotate the heater clockwise until every tab locks under the pan edges.

    • Ensure no heater wires protrude; bending them can cause shorts and premature failure.

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    • Re-bend the locking tab tightly over the new heater rim to secure the assembly.

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    • Hold the heater pan against the cabinet and install one mounting screw by hand.

    • Install the screw opposite the first, then add the remaining two to fully secure the pan.

    • Reconnect the three sensor wires and the three element wires to their original terminals.

    • Tug each connector lightly to verify a firm fit; loose connections cause no-heat callbacks.

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    • Pre-load the idler pulley onto the motor tab to make belt routing easier.

    • Position the drum in the cabinet, guiding the rear bearing straight into its socket.

    • Verify the belt sits in the rear groove that shows the old belt mark.

    • Route the belt around the motor shaft, then release the idler pulley to tension it.

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    • Spin the drum by hand to confirm the belt moves the blower wheel smoothly without snagging.

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    • Set the front panel back onto the three locating fingers at the bottom of the cabinet.

    • Reconnect the door-switch harness and slide the plastic cover back over the connector.

    • Pivot the panel upright, making sure the drum bearing seats into the felt on the door frame.

    • Align the small side tabs on the panel with the chassis slots to prevent misalignment.

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    • Install the two ¼-inch hex screws at the top corners of the front panel.

    • If your model has a drum-light harness, reattach it above the left side screw.

    • Lower the lid and install the two Phillips screws removed from the door opening earlier.

    • Push the lid forward until it snaps onto the chassis.

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    • Plug the dryer back in and run a timed-heat cycle to verify that the element glows and air temperature rises steadily.

    • If the unit still does not heat, re-check all wire connections before investigating thermostats or breakers.

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    • Remove power again, then reinstall the two rear Phillips screws that secure the console housing.

    • Pivot the console forward and tap its rear edge to lock the six fingers into the lid slots.

    • Reinstall the two ¼-inch hex screws at the bottom rear corners of the cabinet.

    • Restore power; the dryer is now ready for normal use at roughly half the cost of replacing the full heater pan.

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Conclusion

Replacing only the mica heating element restores full heat while saving significant money over a complete heater-pan assembly. Keep the gloves handy for any future servicing, and double-check wire connections anytime the dryer loses heat.

Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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