Electrolux Refrigerator Icemaker Troubleshooting and Repair

Try to remove the ice bucket, and look for heavy frost buildup that can jam the bucket or the dispenser.

Press and hold the two buttons on the right side of the control panel for about 12 seconds to start forced defrost.

Listen for the fans to shut off and watch for DF on the display to confirm forced defrost mode is active.

Press and hold the same two buttons for about 10 seconds to stop forced defrost and clear DF from the display.

Use a garment steamer to melt ice by inserting the nozzle into the opening where ice dispenses and holding the trigger.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the icemaker front cover.

Lift the cover up, and pull it out to remove it.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the screw on the left side of the icemaker area.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the screw holding the wire cover on top.

Pull down on the wire cover, and pull it away to release the rear tabs.

Press the locking clips, and disconnect the two wire harnesses inside the icemaker area.

Cut the cable ties securing the wire trunk on the right side using side snips or scissors.

Remove the icemaker assembly from the compartment.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the two screws at the top front of the ice box.

Gently pull the ice box forward and out, and watch the rear harness so it doesn’t snag.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the three screws securing the air handler.

Depress the two side tabs on the left-side harness connector, and disconnect the harness from the air handler.

Remove the air handler from the refrigerator.

Use a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to press in the plastic tab on the evaporator cover wire harness.

Push the wire harness rearward to free it from the evaporator cover.

Slide the evaporator cover down to remove it.

Inspect the evaporator cover for damage that can let moisture into the ice-making system and cause recurring freeze-ups.

Inspect the drain line at the bottom area because it commonly freezes and causes extra moisture buildup.

Flush the drain with warm water to confirm it flows freely.

Inspect the defrost sensor at the top area, and replace it if it looks damaged or swollen.

Use a very small screwdriver or a connector pick to press the sensor wires out from inside the harness connector.

Use a multimeter to check continuity when the sensor is extremely cold, such as in a glass of ice water.

Install the OEM air handler housing kit if frost keeps returning every few weeks and you see a heavy frost pattern at the evaporator area.

Remove the metal fork from the auger by loosening the countersunk screw.

Turn the countersunk screw clockwise to remove it.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the three auger motor screws, including the one hidden behind the foam strip.

Use a flathead screwdriver to press in on the rubber grommet and free the wire trunk from the air handler case.

Pull the wire trunk out of the old air handler case.

Disconnect the small wire from the wire trunk to the icemaker fan.

Disconnect the two wires to the auger solenoid and the two wires to the auger motor to make the transfer easier.

Remove the white bucket glide by removing its small Phillips screw.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to remove the two screws holding the solenoid, and lift the solenoid out.

Remove the black foam gasket from the air handler if it blocks fan installation.

Press the black foam gasket out from the front grill area using a screwdriver.

Route the wire trunk through the new air handler the same way it was routed in the original housing.

Slide the white plastic piece onto the solenoid mounting fingers, and install the solenoid into the air handler in the only orientation that aligns the screw holes.

Install the two solenoid screws.

Reconnect the two solenoid wires because the wire orientation does not matter.

Fit the auger motor into the air handler and guide the motor shaft through the front opening while aligning the three screw holes.

Install the three black 1/4 inch hex screws, tightening them gradually so all three holes stay aligned.

Slot the plastic bucket glide into the bottom air handler slot, and reinstall the Phillips screw.

Fit the fan into the silicone gasket so the gasket triangles seat over the fan corners.

Fit the fan into the black foam gasket with the fan label facing the front of the air handler.

Press the foam gasket down into the air handler until the plastic retainers snap it into place.

Install the foam gasket strip that covers the auger motor screw area.

Install the bottom gasket on the air handler.

Install the auger fork onto the auger shaft, and turn the countersunk screw counterclockwise to tighten it.

Press the new wire harness holder into the evaporator cover, and rotate it 90 degrees until it snaps into place.

Join the evaporator clamshell pieces together into an assembly with the harness holder positioned for later harness routing.

Apply the metal tape strips lengthwise to insulate the left side, the right side, and the angled bottom areas while leaving room for the drain tube.

Remove the old tape and foam gasket material from the top and rear of the ice box.

Use a putty knife to help lift stubborn adhesive or foam.

Install the square foam gasket from the kit onto the cleaned area after removing its backing and removing the center foam section.

Use the remaining metal tape to insulate the ice box surfaces shown in the kit instructions to reduce moisture intrusion.

Scrape away damaged rear foam with a putty knife or a hard plastic bristled brush.

Install the perimeter gasket around the air handler edges if it is not pre-installed.

Cover the three top slots of the shelf support bracket with metal tape, extending the tape about two inches above the slots.

Cut off any cable ties on the evaporator area if they interfere with positioning the new cover assembly.

Pull the two small metal fingers inside the evaporator cover window outward until they are flush with the front to help the cover slide on.

Lift the evaporator cover assembly as high as possible and align the bottom V-notch so it is centered in the drain hole area.

Press the metal tabs in the window back into place by hand or with needle-nose pliers to lock the cover onto the evaporator.

Clip the wire harness into the bottom of the plastic wire harness holder installed on the cover.

Clip the air handler wiring harness into place, repositioning wire slack inside the handler if necessary.

Pivot the air handler up onto the evaporator to form a proper seal.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to install the three air handler screws, and do not use the optional fourth hole if present.

Go behind the refrigerator and disconnect the green water line from the gray or white push-to-connect fitting by pressing down the collar and pulling the line out.

Use needle-nose pliers or a small wrench to help press the fitting collar if it is difficult to depress by hand.

Go to the front and use needle-nose pliers to pull the rubber stopper out to extract the rest of the old fill line.

Coat the new green fill line with dish soap and slide it into the top hole with the line pointing toward the rear of the refrigerator.

Pull the line from the rear until it seats because a few inches may not push in from the front even with force.

Slide the ice box up and into the top of the air handler.

Tap the ice box into place with a plastic hammer if the air handler gasket prevents full seating and screw alignment.

Use a 1/4 inch hex driver to install the two screws at the top of the ice box.

Route the wire trunk through the icemaker area as required by your icemaker version, using cable ties if needed.

Rest the icemaker chassis on the four metal posts, slot it into place, and press it rearward until it clicks.

Reconnect the two icemaker wire harnesses because they are different sizes and only fit one way.

Install the wire cover by engaging the rear tabs, pivoting it into place, and installing its screw.

Install the front cover by engaging its retention tabs, pressing it in, and lifting it to seat it fully.

Install the three remaining screws, and reinstall the ice bucket.

Apply a thin bead of food-grade RTV silicone sealant to seal the seams around the icemaker housing edges if you want additional protection against air gaps.