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Amana Washing Machine Suspension Rod Replacement

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

Introduction

If your top-load Amana washing machine bounces, bangs, “walks” across the floor, or gets very noisy during spin, worn suspension rods (also called suspension springs, rods, or dampers) are a common cause.

This guide shows how to confirm the rods are weak and how to replace them using a W10189077 / W10820048-style suspension rod kit, a repair that’s very similar on many Whirlpool-built top-load machines, including Whirlpool, Roper, Maytag (Bravos), and Whirlpool Cabrio models.

What you need

  1. Edit

    • Unplug the washer from the wall outlet.

    • Turn off the hot and cold water supply valves.

    • Move the washer to a clear workspace where you can tilt it to one side.

    • Lay down towels because tilting the washer can spill a small amount of water onto the floor.

  2. Edit

    • Open the lid.

    • Press down on the agitator or washplate as hard as you can, and let go to watch how the tub rebounds.

    • Rock the tub left and right to check how much side-to-side play and bounce it has.

    • A healthy suspension returns to center immediately and doesn’t keep bouncing vertically or side to side.

    • If the tub keeps bouncing or doesn’t re-center, the suspension rods are likely worn.

  3. Edit

    • Get a W10189077 / W10820048-style suspension rod kit.

    • Get a 6-in-1 screwdriver and use the 1/4 inch function for the back screws.

    • Put on a rubber-grip glove so you can pull oily, soapy rods without slipping.

    • Have masking tape ready to secure the lid so it can’t flop and hit the control panel.

    • A helper can make lifting and rod handling easier, but the job can be done solo with a good glove.

  4. Edit

    • Use a 6-in-1 screwdriver to remove the three screws at the back of the top panel.

    • Remove the two screws near the hinges and the screw on the power cord cover plate.

    • Pull the top toward you, lift it up, and push it back about two inches to release it from the retaining bracket.

    • Secure the lid to the top panel with masking tape so it can’t swing while the top is leaned back.

    • If the cabinet is bent, the release motion can feel sticky, so keep the movements small and controlled.

    • Some Bravos, Cabrio, and many Samsung-style models use front clips that release with a putty knife instead of rear screws.

  5. Edit

    • Reach into the washer cabinet and pull up on one suspension rod with a rubber-grip glove.

    • Rotate the rod’s plastic piece about 90 degrees, and slide it out of the plastic housing.

    • Lower the rod gently back into the cabinet so it hangs down for removal from below.

  6. Edit

    • Tilt the washer to one side so you can access the bottom of the suspension rod.

    • Pull the rod out from the bottom of the washer.

    • Wiggle the shepherd’s hook end if it gets stuck while coming out.

    • Guide the rod through both sets of holes in the base, because it won’t come out until it clears both.

    • Laying the washer fully on its side can make removal easier but can spill more water onto the floor.

  7. Edit

    • Insert the new suspension rod from the bottom in the same path the old rod came out.

    • Feed the rod through both sets of holes until the spring and rod are fully in position.

    • Rest the bottom spring on the chassis lip before setting the washer back down.

    • Keeping the spring on the lip helps ensure the rod stays through both holes when you lower the washer.

  8. Edit

    • Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic cup and hook support pieces from the old rod.

    • Install the matching plastic cup and hook support pieces for the new rod.

    • Some replacement rods clock the hook differently than the factory rod, so match the new rod’s required resting angle.

    • Keep all cups and bushings from the same kit together because mixing parts can leave the tub unlevel.

  9. Edit

    • Lift up on the washer tub and insert the rod’s shepherd’s hook into the plastic cup.

    • Use the rubber-grip glove to keep your hand from slipping while lifting and hooking the rod.

    • Lay the washer on its side if you can’t lift the tub and hook the rod with the washer upright.

  10. Edit

    • Repeat the unhook, bottom removal, bottom install, and top hook process for the other three suspension rods.

    • Replace one rod at a time if you have limited working space.

    • Verify each rod passes through both base holes and each spring is seated on the chassis lip before moving on.

    • If the tub isn’t level because a bushing or cup is missing or mismatched, spin vibration can get dramatically worse.

  11. Edit

    • Lower the top panel and slide it into its bracket with the reverse of the release motion.

    • Remove the masking tape that secured the lid.

    • Use a 6-in-1 screwdriver to reinstall the two hinge-area screws and the screw on the power cord cover plate.

  12. Edit

    • Press down on the agitator or washplate to confirm the tub returns to center without bouncing.

    • Rock the tub side to side to confirm there is significantly less play.

    • Run a load of laundry and confirm the washer no longer bangs or walks during spin.

    • If the washer still vibrates, recheck for a missing plastic cup or bushing and confirm each rod is routed through both base holes.

Conclusion

If the washer still bounces after rod replacement, focus on installation errors that make the tub unlevel, such as a missing cup or bushing, mixed parts from different rod sets, or a rod that isn’t passing through both base holes.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

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Ben Schlichter

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