My laptop doesn't turn on

SM can be found here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Document/pd...

Don't spend a ton on this as these will not run W11, but it might be an easy fix. I have seen these HP laptops be difficult over low CMOS batteries corrupting the CMOS RAM does this. The solution for those is to pull the CMOS and primary battery and hold the power button for 30 seconds, then reconnect the CMOS first, then primary

IMPORTANT: SureStart machines are notorious for a longer then average delay when you clear the CMOS with a battery disconnect (on the G11/G1X series, no CMOS battery, the primary pack is the CMOS battery, G10 and older use both) but these early ProBooks lack SureStart, but MIGHT carry on the characteristic delay. If it does it on yours, it also happens a lot on the older RSA signed UEFI BIOSes. The delay is usually 3-5 minutes, but can be faster pre SureStart.

If it comes back, remove the primary battery and run with the adapter - it might be a bad battery shorting the startup and the machine is going into protection mode. 95% of the time HPs fail out by bricking the BMS or blocking it on the commercial line but a bad short will bypass that.

If those do not help (and you verified BOTH adapters with a DMM, should be ~19-19.5V off load, 18.5-19V under load - some high spec configs like i7/Ryzen 7 with a dGPU+onboard do not like weak adapters and you need to buy a new one to get them to run), it's the motherboard - buy a newer machine, like the 600 series G9 or G11, or any recent 800 series (G9, 10, 11 and G1X). If it comes up with a different code, run that by us and we can see but if the 1 blink and shutdown continues the board has a problem.

Now if you want to try one last thing, remove BOTH RAM sticks and watch for a RAM code (3 caps lock blinks and an audible tone of 1, 2). If the code changes, the RAM is bad. If not, put the RAM back in and do the same for the SATA drive - a bad drive will POST error it with a "no drive detected" error when it is removed if a bad drive is hanging it up.

Hot take: The G10 Intel model is overpriced, get the G9 if you buy one with Intel that is not the G11 - it's the same thing except for Intel G10 has 13th gen Intel vs 12th gen.

The AMD G10 is the G11 with 16:9 with the same CPU series, but the 645 G9 is a pretty good deal (albeit being 16:9, not 16:10). They're nearly the same, so go on price and preference for aspect ratio.

The 800 series is better in the sense they have better CPUs across the board and aren't a mix like the 600, but they lack Ethernet, buy the HP USB-C 1G adapter and keep it on you at all times (or buy 2 - one at home, one in your bag) or the Kingston managed 2.5G for HP machines (cheaper then the 2.5G dock, and portable). The 845 G10 had 16:10 early, Ryzen 8000 with the 15 TOPS NPU before the 600 got it with the 6 G1 series, but they're priced to match and it depends on if you value the better CPUs or ethernet - I'd rather have Ethernet but if you said I can take an 8 G1a for 6 G1a money, I will take an 8.

If you want one of the newer machines like the G1i or G1a, shop around on price for new, used and certified refurbished. Unless you are sure your programs are ARM friendly and you buy one with 32-64GB (SOLDERED, plus the ARM>x86 translation layer uses RAM as well!), skip the G1q. Windows for ARM has a compatibility crisis with a lot of legacy programs (and hardware, see inkjet printers - OEMs like HP never, ever give you ARM drivers, they sell you a whole new one with aggressive DRM and HP+), you will need to replace a lot of programs, the other issue is some hardware programs will never work and need replacement.