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Compressor doesn't always restart when temp drops below the setpoint
My Whirlpool ED25RFXFN01 gets nice and cold. However, when the temp drops below the thermostat setpoint, the compressor doesn't always restart. I can sometimes get it to restart by manually turning the thermostat counter-clockwise, and the clockwise again (I can hear the thermostat "click"). I'm not sure if the issue is with the thermostat or something else.
That's a pretty classic symptom of a failing thermostat. The best way to diagnose for sure, if you're comfortable with live voltage measurements and can perform them safely, would to check voltage between the two terminals of the thermostat in the failed state (actual temp warmer than setpoint, but unit not running/cooling), but this can be difficult and potentially dangerous.
The old-school approach was to either visually inspect the console under the thermostat, looking for black powder from oxidation/carbon from the switch contacts arcing, or doing the Fonzie jukebox knock on the console in the failed state, if the unit springs to life and starts running, usually a very good indicator of a failed thermostat.
Replacement thermostat is p/n WP2198202, best to use the OEM Whirlpool part from a legit vendor. No real tricks to the replacement, except maybe the hidden screws behind the console panel, the panel pops out with a putty knife or spudger.
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3 Comments:
Thanks for the reply. Can you give me more details about testing the thermostat? I am thinking that in the failed state, there should be no voltage between the 2 terminals? And there should be voltage when it's working as it should? Seems like testing the thermostat is an easy first step. Thanks.
I opened up the panel around the thermostat and there was a pile of black oxidation under the thermostat. I replaced the thermostat, and have had no problems in the last month. Thanks for pointing me towards an easy, cheap resolution.
".... doesn't always restart..." might be a clue as this makes it "appear" to be intermittent, but maybe it's not. It might occur on a sort of regular basis but this is not obvious.
Looking at an image of the defrost timer used in the refrigerator, it has an 8 hour, 25 minute defrost duty cycle¹
Basically the compressor is controlled by the temperature thermostat i.e. it turns the compressor on and off as required to maintain the set temperature in the compartments.
Once every 8 accumulated run time hours, the compressor is turned off by the defrost timer for 25 minutes so that the defrost heater (which is then turned on) melts any accumulated ice from the evaporator unit. After the 25 minutes has elapsed the heater is turned off (or it can be turned off sooner by the defrost thermostat) and the compressor is restarted again and is controlled by the temperature thermostat until the next defrost cycle occurs etc.
If the compressor fails to start only after a defrost cycle has occurred perhaps check the defrost timer. If it is faulty it will have to be replaced as there are no internal parts available for it. The part number is as per the link above. This supersedes part # 2176648 which may be shown on your timer.
If it fails to start more often between defrost cycles, then it could be the thermostat, given that you can restart it by manually operating the thermostat - part # WP2198202
Here's the tech sheet if you want to test the defrost circuit.
¹ It is an accumulated run time type timer which means that the timer motor only runs when the compressor is running, so getting 8 hours of run time could take longer then 8 actual hours, e.g. during the day when the doors are opened more often due to user activity and the warmer ambient temperature, the compressor runs more often and for longer to replace the cool air lost in the refrigerator, but during the night it will run less often for shorter periods as most users are asleep, so doors are opened less and the ambient temperature is cooler, so the defrost cycle initiate time can vary. It could take 12 actual hours to achieve 8 hours run time or 10 etc and not 8.