⟐ Commented February 23, 2026 at 1:46 MST

⟐ Commented February 19, 2026 at 7:26 MST

⟐ Edited by author February 16, 2026 at 1:19 MST

I was playing with the PC interface and had the micro USB port going to my PC and had my 140-watt universal charging pack going to the USB-C input port and would plug devices to charge into the USB-C output port. I've used this before with my phone and a MacBook Pro I repaired, and I was getting mixed results.

Sometimes when I plugged the devices in, it would call for fast charging, and sometimes it would only low charge or not charge at all, and I couldn't figure out why. On this day I would plug in my iPhone 17 Pro, and it would only draw 5 volts and less than 1 amp, but the phone was almost fully charged, so I decided to plug in my iPad mini, and it was charging, but at some point, while going through the settings, I noticed the iPad charging indicator started going off and on, so I eventually unplugged everything from the tester, plugged my 140-watt charger into the iPad, and walked away.

Later that night I noticed my iPad was almost dead after being on the charger all day, so I plugged it into a USB-C Anker pack to see what's up, and when I plug the iPad into it, it immediately kicks the power bank off.

I wasn't sure what was up, so I plugged the iPad into my PC, which gave an error stating that the device I plugged in was calling for too much power or something like that.

I've since removed the screen to take a look, and what I've found is that it definitely isn't the port because when I unclip the port's ribbon cable and plug into it, the charger pack stays on fine, but when the port is reattached to the logic board, it immediately shuts down, so I'm assuming there's a short somewhere, but I'm not 100 percent sure where to look.

I also charged the battery with my bench-top power supply at 4 volts and 1.5 amps externally and got it almost fully charged so I could back up my iPad, so the battery seems to be fine too.

I can't seem to find a board view file or schematic anywhere, so I'm looking for anyone who may have dealt with a similar problem or may have suggestions on where to look. I do have the ability to do voltage injection with a thermal camera, I'm just not sure where I should inject. Thanks for any help.

⟐ Edited February 06, 2026 at 7:06 MST

I understand that a screen replacement is the only way to fix something like this, as it’s the display likely being damaged, but if I were to replace the screen I would want to be sure that it wouldn’t happen again with a new screen, since they’re expensive to replace.

Just received a refurbished iPad mini from eBay that otherwise seems great but when dark mode turned on noticed these blotches that only appear on dark background. Are they stuck pixels? Would those flashing colour videos or massaging them (I have an Apple Pencil I could apply pressure with) help or does this look more serious?

The seller offers a warranty and eBay has their guarantee but curious if it’s an issue that can be fixed without having to send it back.

⟐ Answered January 14, 2026 at 7:24 MST

⟐ Answered January 02, 2026 at 10:23 MST

⟐ Answered December 29, 2025 at 21:05 MST

According to itunes error 53 after iPhone 6 home button replacement?replacing the Touch-ID home button will always lead to the ipad being unusable after updating it. (Error 53).

My questions:

1) is this true?

2) has it always been true?

3) would taking the old home button and just replacing the cable work?

The reason I am asking: I brought my iPad to a repair service with broken digitizer and severed home button connecting cable. They told me that replacing the home button with authentic apple home button would work((see question 1). I accepted a 170€ repair and now the iPad is unusable. They threw away my original home button(see question 3). They tell me the issue is a recent one coming with an IOS update and that previous Touch-ID home button replacements have worked.(see question 2) I should wait if there is a fix in the next IOS update.

Thank you for your help

⟐ Answered December 28, 2025 at 8:10 MST

⟐ Commented October 13, 2025 at 14:52 MST

if it’s ok on here to ask this for a iPad I legally own. I need to find someone who I can pay to do a permanent removal of a iCloud activation lock on a iPad mini 5, ‘Wi-Fi only’ can anyone recommend to me who I should contact to get this done?

⟐ Answered October 01, 2025 at 0:14 MST

I actually dropped my iPad a few years ago and got the screen replaced. Now though, and when I first got it back after being fixed, a problem showed up with the the apps.

I can install them just fine but when I want to delete them now it doesn’t seem to work. When I press on the screen and the apps start to jiggle then press the x button nothing happens.

When I go into iPad storage and try and delete an app from there it just has the pin wheels going for a more time then reasonable before it just stops and doesn’t delete. I have tried restarting the app then deleting, deleting on airplane modes and looking to see if anything can help but it won’t work

The touch screen as well is just hard to deal with as sometimes when I’m typing ,like putting in my password to unlock, the last number will not press and it takes a few tries.

I already spent far to much trying to fix the screen the first place and they clearly didn’t do a good job reinstalling properly (as the bottom left corner of the iPad when I got it back where lifting up when I got back home and now this constant problem I’ve just been ignoring) so I don’t want to go back to the place. so I was wondering if there’s a way to fix the apps not deleting problem or if i should just try and replace the iPad.

⟐ Commented September 24, 2025 at 2:18 MST

⟐ Answer accepted September 20, 2025 at 16:44 MST

I have several questions.

# I replaced the battery in my ipad mini ok, but I messed up the screen/digitiser. How can I find out what it is that I am doing wrong? I was very careful removing the screen, and had an extra pair of hands while I undid the incredibly tiny screws. When it was put back together the colours are washed out, a band of different colour, and it flickers like crazy on another part of the screen. Also there are black ink blobs under the glass in the corners which you can move about but can't make them go away. I'm sure the screen/digitiser is dead (please prove me wrong ??) but I would really like to know what I did that broke it.

1. I saw on here a replacement screen which I am willing to buy, but I can't find the ad now ??? I remember though that it comes without the home button (because of fingerprint recognition) but I would really like a screen complete with the button. I have never been able to successfully solder anything. Is it possible to get the screen with the home button already in it?
2. I also saw that the screen was clear glass, whereas my screen is attached to the black digitiser and is all one item. Am I looking at the wrong thing or is the ad showing the screen as clear just for clarity?
3. I also saw a video which showed you how to solder in a home button and how to strip down the ipad mini. Can anyone find where these videos are?
4. That's all folks :)

Lee

⟐ Commented September 16, 2025 at 0:28 MST

I have an old iPad that I’d like to try fixing myself as a personal project.

The problem is that it’s stuck in a restart loop. I see the Apple logo, then it seems like there’s some kind of short inside, and it restarts again. Sometimes it shows a pink screen, and other times it manages to boot into iOS, but after a few minutes it shuts down and goes back into the loop.

The battery is fully charged, and I also tried doing a factory restore, but I can’t complete it because the iPad won’t enter restore mode properly—iTunes throws an error.

My questions:

• What could be the hardware issue?
• Where can I buy the spare parts?

Thanks!

Also, would the Apple Pencil keep working if I use an aftermarket display (a lá Aliexpress)? Does it matter whether it’s an original part or not in this regard?

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Answered July 31, 2025 at 22:23 MST