The OFF button does not work. It may take me back to a locked page; then a blank screen

⟐ Commented July 01, 2021 at 17:24 MST

Hi,

I was wondering whether my glass is broken or the LCD underneath? Touch is working with no issues.

Thank you for help!

⟐ Edited by author May 14, 2021 at 13:54 MST

can the lock for the flex cable be reattached? Does it need to be soldered or a heavy duty glue can fix it? Help please

⟐ Commented April 30, 2020 at 7:39 MST

⟐ Commented April 25, 2020 at 17:35 MST

Will replacing the screen digitizer fix this or is this something else?

I am not a pro, I know almost nothing, so please use laments terms.

Mahalo

I there any chance to swap an ipad mini 1 logic board with a logic board from ipad mini 2?

are the connectors layout the same and compatible?

Thank you

After creating a new iCloud account, I checked if everything is working, and everything seemed OK. Powered the thing off and started putting it back together, EMI shields and all that, but when I tried to power it on before pressing the display back in, it stayed black, the backlight was not working.

Checked the L2200 fuse - continuity is there, as well as between the diode leg and connector pins, D8228 seems fine too, 3.8V on one side, 0 on the other, diode testing mode shows 0 in one direction and 2 and change in the other, hard resets and an additional DFU did not help, connectors look ok.

Honestly, I have no idea what else to look at here.

I was ready to throw this thing out when I decided to try and unlock the iCloud, but that work out great and this new issue popped out of nowhere, bummer =(

I really want to figure this out, please help

Oh wow, just figured out, that 2.07V reading in diode test mode is the voltage drop, which for PMEG4010BEA used in the iPad should be around 0.54V, so it’s probably the diode after all, those things are 8 cent a pop, but I’ll need to grab some new tips for my soldering station to swap it ha ha

⟐ Edited by author October 20, 2019 at 17:55 MST

ipad mini 2 lcd will work in ipad mini 1?

⟐ Answer unaccepted September 10, 2019 at 11:35 MST

⟐ Commented August 04, 2018 at 14:20 MST

I have an iPad mini in my store, and i really would like to get it running for my customer. we have replaced the Touch panel assembly (With Control I/C) three times now. twice of which under warranty, and the same issue shows up.

Immediately after the repair, the touch functions perfectly fine. there is no issue for about 2 days. after which the touch stops. When we run a hard reset (Home/Power for 15Sec) it works fine again for a couple days, then stops.

(Yes, i HAVE put the tape across the digi and home button flex to stop any shorts on the frame.)

if anyone has had this issue before, please contact me with the way you fixed it.

If there is any known board issue with this problem, i have the tools and skillset to do micro SMT Solder work, so if you could post me an image highlighting what would need to be replaced, ill get started on that.

⟐ Commented November 23, 2017 at 8:09 MST

I have and iPad mini in for a no power or charge issue. Changed out the battery and the only way this device will power on is when I disconnect the battery and plug it back in. Battery voltage is 3.7.

My Drock meter shows voltage as 4.90 and amps as 1.57. I replaced the power button with another working button and still the same thing. The iPad shuts down and won’t power back on unless I disconnect the battery and reconnect it.

The device is charging up to 100 percent but won’t come on. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

⟐ Edited September 27, 2017 at 9:43 MST

If i open an app it has to be reset before it will switch back to vertical. Before replacing the digitizer it worked perfectly even with the broken digitizer.

thanks in advance

⟐ Commented May 26, 2017 at 4:42 MST