I ordered the battery replacement kit and have the battery replaced, seems to be fine. Cleaned up the edges of the screen and body, now want to install the adhesive strips.

Do I apply them to the screen or the body? There is no guidance within any of the iPad Air 2 guides, and the links referred to above are invalid...?

I know, I know, it seems pretty logical looking at it but I just would like to get it right as there's only one set of the strips...

⟐ Commented January 06, 2019 at 13:12 MST

I would like to identify a broken flex in the upper right, just to the left of the rear camera. There are 4 snap connectors here.....this one that I have broken, then 2 others and then the rear camera (extreme right). It's the smallest of these flex connectors and I'd like to identify it to test the operation and to order a replacement.

In the photos the red spot is visible where the connector has started to separate.

Can anyone help please ?

⟐ Answered December 13, 2022 at 12:44 MST

⟐ Answer deleted December 10, 2019 at 2:28 MST

⟐ Answered May 30, 2023 at 3:03 MST

I got three iPads lying around with various defects and I'm trying to make a single properly functioning one out of them.

• The iPad Air 2 LTE (A1567) has a near-dead battery
• The iPad 5th's (A1822) screen is cracked and loose every which way
• The iPad 7th (A2197), according to the Apple Store has a dead logic board (won't boot / goes into reboot cycle)

Far as I can tell my options are to either repair/replace 7's board or replace the Air 2's battery.

So I was wondering if the apparently different model battery from the iPad 5 would be okay to fit into the Air 2?

(Sorry if it's an obvious 'no way'. Not an expert by any stretch.)

Many thanks

⟐ Answered August 25, 2024 at 4:48 MST

⟐ Commented October 25, 2023 at 10:21 MST

When the battery is fully drained charging start to 2% when it boots the OS and then stops the charging.

I tried to force restart (home and sleep/wake button), nothing changed but when I didn't release the buttons after the first restart, the screen turned on with the sign "connect to iTunes”, a few minutes later the iPad restarted automatically and it was at a higher battery percentage than before, so I think when the last screen was active, it was charging at the background. So I did this process again and again, and the battery percentage was higher at every restart. Once when I did this restart method I left the iPad to charge with the “connect to iTunes” screen and after the next restart the charging didn’t stop till the battery percentage was 98%.

Another surprise when I connected the iPad to my MacBook Pro when it was fully drained, the charging was started and at 2% the OS booted on the iPad and iTunes started to syncing my device. I made a backup save and then upgraded to iOS 11.2.6. checked the battery with Coconut Battery(145 loadcycles, 6975 mAh capacity, 95% health, good condition).

Nothing changed after that. The device won’t charge and sync when the iOS is running but if I restart when plugged in to my MacBook Pro it is syncing and charging, till 95% the charging icon is active next to the battery sign, after that the charging icon fades away (checked on iTunes too) but the charging doesn’t stop.

Any good ideas? I don’t know how can I solve this problem. I called the local Apple Authorized Service Provider (Budapest, Hungary) they said that "This is a fault of the logic board can’t repair only change the full part"...

⟐ Commented March 12, 2021 at 19:09 MST

Update: I should clarify the old damaged screen works but has lines all up and down it. But it does actually display something whereas the new screen shows absolutely nothing.

Has as anyone else experienced this?!

⟐ Answer accepted November 26, 2019 at 5:46 MST

⟐ Answer accepted June 18, 2019 at 5:07 MST

My iPad Air 2 battery got weak, and my volume down button stopped working.

So I bought:

- New battery $19.50

- New volume-microphone flex cable $4.00

- Pre cut adhesive strips $4.50

Installed everything with utmost care. Unfortunately I forgot to reinstall the plate that secures the cables connecting the LCD to the iPad. So I reopened the iPad, this time foolishly a tad less careful, so I ended up breaking my LCD screen.

I was devastated.

Had no choice, so ordered and installed a new one for $118.00.

Now I have the following issues:

Issue 1:

The iPad works, but every time the battery drains to zero and I charge it, it boot loops 3 - 4 times before staying turned off for a few minutes. Then boots and charges normally while staying on. But now I have this suspicion that the fully charged battery kinda drains faster than it should. It still lasts a fair bit, but I feel not as long as it should.

And in Settings > Battery, I get no battery info even after using the iPad for a few hours. It just says “Battery information will be available after using the iPad for a few minutes”

Question 1:

Are these sign of a bad/cheap or even damaged replacement battery?

Issue 2:

The new LCD screen displays waves along the left edge when holding the iPad on its left bezel in portrait mode.

On that left bezel the LCD also has a thin line of being a tiny bit dimmer.

Also I’m not sure about this, but I have a slight suspicion that this new LCD has slightly less color saturation, slightly weaker black levels, and kinda worse viewing angles with more blueshift than I think I remember.

Question 2:

Are those commonly known signs of a potentially not as good as original, cheap LCD screen? Or does it sound like a damaged screen?

Issue 3:

I have difficulties with the new LCD staying in the chassis.

I tried the seemingly quality pre cut adhesive strips, but the LCD simply keeps slowly coming off. I then diligently cut fitting strips myself from generic double sided tape we have at home. Which seems to hold in the screen a bit better, but still, the LCD keeps slowly coming off. So I currently constantly keep pressing the edges of my LCD back in to the chassis.

Question 3:

Are there specific pro-tips on how to make sure the LCD stays in the chassis? Or is it not normal for the front to slightly keep pushing out, maybe a sign of the new battery being slightly too thick? I’d really appreciate some experts advice.

Thanks in advance

Update 20.02.2019

Ok after analyzing the new screen some more I can definitely confirm that this new one has noticeably worse viewing angles and color saturation.

I figured because I have my old broken LCD still around I can simply reconnect it and quickly compare image quality.

This is my old screen:

This is my new screen:

Things like this are difficult to capture in pictures, but you can clearly see the new one is washed out in comparison.

⟐ Answer accepted April 14, 2019 at 8:59 MST

I'm sure this is probably a battery issue, as it currently has 1117 cycles and is at 78% design capacity. What throws me off a bit though is that over half the time when I turn it back on, it shows me the multi-language hello screen and then says software update to 15.8.1 was successful. At first I thought this was a software issue, and it was running 15.7.9 and said as much. However after updating to 15.8.1 it still shows this screen when booting after a random shutdown.

I'm debating if it's even worth replacing the battery, given how old the device is. I've replaced the screen on this iPad before, not the most fun endeavor. I'm hesitant to buy any new Apple devices considering Apple's anti-repair practices, especially now that they're pairing iPhone batteries to logic boards.

In the meantime, I want to back it up so that I can migrate to a new device or not lose everything if I botch a battery swap. The problem is I can't even get it to stay on for long enough to do a backup. I've tried keeping it in airplane mode, and that hasn't helped. Is there anything I can do to get a backup out of it?

⟐ Answered March 18, 2024 at 9:39 MST

I took off the screen and checked the charging circuit and the Charge IC's exit was normal

I removed the board and applied to the battery entrance 3.7v through the power supply. Then I put the charger on.

But apple's logo didn't show up and the screen started blinking.

⟐ Answered December 02, 2022 at 23:23 MST

⟐ Commented August 20, 2021 at 5:34 MST

Hi oldturkey lol. Please excuse me but I am new at this. I’m not sure what you mean by twisting of the iPad. But I restarted it. Now it has more problems. I’ll put some screen shots. Thank you for your help !

strange spots ( like oil spots from a car) hmmmmm

⟐ Answer accepted July 04, 2019 at 17:38 MST

⟐ Answer accepted May 14, 2018 at 5:18 MST

⟐ Commented January 26, 2018 at 1:14 MST

I recently encountered a problem with my iPad Air 2 (Cellular+Wi-Fi A1567) after restoring to the latest iOS 12.1.1. My device could not be activated because the activation information is invalid in iTunes. So now my device a not usable, I couldn't activate using WiFi as the antenna has broken.

What I found when I was playing around:

• iTunes, the "Model Identifier" Was wrong as it shows iPad5,3 instead of iPad5,4 (which is mine)
• Under "Regulatory" there it also displayed the wrong model number(A1566 EMC 2822)

Please see the images(https://imgur.com/a/4yBr4Zt) for more information(Sorry i can't get the picture of the back of the iPad)

I tried the iTunes restore & update function in both recovery mode and normal mode.

Is there a fix for that?

Apple repair cost me $400+ in my country which is going to cost me an arm and a leg.That's why asking for help here.

Thank in advance!

⟐ Commented September 01, 2019 at 6:41 MST

Any good tape out there?

⟐ Answered April 19, 2022 at 21:48 MST

It looks like it’s struggling with gradient colors. Cartoon-like imagery looks fine, while photos are degraded.

It was dropped a year ago, so my first thought was a loose LCD connector.

I checked accessibility options to see if anything was turned on causing this. I also reset all settings.

I’ve carefully opened the iPad and unplugged and replugged the LCD connectors (3), but that didn’t fix it.

The picture below shows an example of the screen output.

Maybe I need a new LCD screen? They look to run around $100, so I don’t want to purchase before getting some feedback.

Thanks!

⟐ Answered July 31, 2020 at 7:42 MST

I’ve have done a terrible mistake. Months ago I replaced the Front panel / LCD part of my iPad Air 2. But I so far neglected to put in the adhesive stripes to fully close up my iPad again. So I have been using it with a pretty loose LCD part all this time. Terrible mistake I know, but that’s how it is.

Now today while my iPad was plugged in charging I sadly tripped over the cable and made the iPad drop, charging port first, from an average chair height onto a semi soft bathroom carpet. I was horrified, as that never happened before.

• USB cable was still connected after drop.
• LCD part was folded open away from the main iPad unit, but connector cables were still connected.
• Screen has not been visibly damaged.
• a portion of a cover part has been ripped open, but circuit board underneath that seems to be fine after some inspection.
• LCD Backlight was still working after I picked the iPad up from the floor.
• After bending the ripped open cover part kinda back to normal, and putting the LCD part back onto the iPad, the LCD display no longer turned on.
• iPad is fully recognized by MacOS Finder(iTunes). Says: “Unlock your iPad to use it with this computer”
• Already tried to force reboot iPad by holding down Home and Power button for 10, 20 and 30 seconds. But LCD display still is not turning on.
• Already disconnected the battery for half a minute, then reconnected it again. But LCD display still is not turning on.
• Already disconnected and reconnected, and cleaned, the 3 LCD display main connector cables multiple times from the main iPad unit. But LCD display still is not turning on.
• Also I’m not sure if my iPad is in silent mode, but I think not. So it seems like there’s also no longer that usual iOS charging sound whenever I plug the iPad into a charger or connect it with my iMac.

I am no super expert when it comes iPad repairs, but I now have a decent degree of iPad repair experience. Did repairs/replacements for battery, LCD panel (iPad front part) and volume buttons.

So my questions to you, the real experts are:

• Can you tell me if it is likely possible for me to repair my LCD display without having to buy a new one?
• Can you tell me all likely issue sources that could prevent my LCD display to turn on again?

I’m really sad about this, so I appreciate all the help and advice I can get from you guys. I am attaching some photos of my problem that show what happened to my iPad Air 2.

Some close up images of the ripped open cover area, and the LCD display connectors and the LCD display cables. Which all seem fine after pretty long inspection with my eyes and magnifying glass:

Minor update May 31 , 2021

I did plenty of research to figure out what to look for when looking for damaged diodes etc. And after taking yet another look at the logic board underneath the ripped open cover area, I may or may not have found the problem. Took a picture through the magnifying glass for more details:

Is there a missing diode here? Or is this slot supposed to be clean empty like that on the iPad Air 2 WiFi + LTE?

⟐ Answered June 02, 2021 at 13:02 MST