⟐ Commented November 22, 2025 at 12:54 MST

I have an iPad 8th gen. I replaced the screen and the home button failed. Whilst I couldn’t see any damage to the cable I half expected the issue.

2 days after, the iPad starting ghost touching. It disabled itself and would do crazy stuff. I assumed a simple solution of covering the surrounding on the interior of the screen. This had no affect so I ordered a new screen. It still never worked!

I looked a bit further into it and discovered the iPad does this even with no digitiser connected. This was strange!?

I somehow managed to get it to work by turning it on, then connecting the digitiser and finally the LCD. However, it suddenly stopped working again. I have tried doing the same thing but it will not work. Any suggestions?

⟐ Answered November 12, 2025 at 7:54 MST

⟐ Answered September 29, 2025 at 20:09 MST

⟐ Edited by author September 29, 2025 at 11:44 MST

⟐ Commented July 06, 2025 at 7:01 MST

⟐ Commented June 02, 2025 at 21:26 MST

As stated in the title, I've opened my Ipad because screen went black but still made sound when charger was plugged, I shined some light with flashlight but there was still no screen, opened it without a problem, detached and reattached the connector on the back of the screen and now apple logo appears for 0.7-0.8s and then screen goes black and battery connector makes crackling noise, i removed the motherboard, inspected the battery connector and it's all good. Does anybody know what's going on? How can i troubleshoot or isolate the problem?

⟐ Commented February 21, 2025 at 9:17 MST

⟐ Answered September 03, 2024 at 17:46 MST

Is this even worth repairing? or would it just be easier to get a tad bit of money to trade it in for 10th gen?

⟐ Answer accepted August 19, 2024 at 8:32 MST

⟐ Commented July 21, 2024 at 14:17 MST

⟐ Commented January 31, 2024 at 15:27 MST

⟐ Commented January 18, 2024 at 4:06 MST

⟐ Answered September 08, 2023 at 14:55 MST

⟐ Answer accepted August 02, 2023 at 9:19 MST

Didn't want to start tearing all the mask off, and figure someone has seen this. Do we know where these traces go to ? Does it even use all the traces? iPad 8 seems to be the only ipad I don't have info on. Here is a pic of what I have under the microscope.

Thanks in advance !

Oh my bad, it's a A2270

⟐ Commented May 22, 2023 at 13:42 MST

I have iPad-7 WiFi 32GB and an iPad-7 cellular 32GB but has a motherboard issue so it’s not working but has a perfect housing not bent

Also I have iPad-8 128GB WiFi working fine but housing is badly broken so there is water ripple on the screen. I have tried to bending back still water ripple on the screen

Do you guys think I took out of the mainboard from iPad-8 to put the board into the iPad-7 housing?

Do you guys think the it’s the same housing between the iPad-7 and iPad-8? also cellular as well?

plz let me know thank you

⟐ Answered April 22, 2023 at 4:20 MST

I am installing a mini remote controlled switch in the iPad 8th Gen. The ideas is to be able to cut the power to the iPad at the battery using a remote control.

1st attempt:

I wired up the remote control receiver inside the iPad. 4 pins, positive, negative, output + and output -. Fairly simple. Positive and negative are wired to the battery terminals. Output + and output - are wired to the motherboard terminals.

1st attempt result: Remote control worked fine, but the iPad was booting and then shutting off when I tried to open Safari or something. I thought it had to do with the max current that the mini remote couldn't handle (~1A on my multimeter). Later the iPad stopped booting on the last screen (same as the remaining attempts).

2nd attempt:

I wired up the remote control receiver to a relay. The relay will handle the current in normally closed configuration and will only be activated by the remote control switch. Therefore - any large amp operations should be handled thru the relay, and everything should work.

2nd attempt result: relay worked fine, remote control worked fine, but the iPad wouldn't boot fully. It would boot up until the last screen and then shut down. Same as attempt #1.

3rd attempt:

I removed the relay and remote and left the copper tape wiring in place. Everything worked with a short wire run (board + connected to battery + on the breadboard, board - connected to battery - directly using copper tape).

Then I made some minor adjustments:

I installed the relay and the remote, it stopped working (boot issue).

I removed the remote and just left the relay, still not working (boot issue).

I measured the voltage drop caused by the relay, around 0.12V.

I moved the board + and battery + pins farther apart on the breadboard. Voltage drop ~0.04V. Not working (won't boot).

I then swapped to a different copper tape template that I had been using for awhile and it still wouldn't work, even with the same wiring.

I suspect it is due to the SENSE pin on the battery that relays the battery voltage to the motherboard. I am "stealing" voltage from the battery (thru the relay, wiring, & remote) before providing it back to the board, so there will be a mismatch, albeit small, between what the SENSE is providing at the battery and what my circuit is providing back to the board.

Am I correct in my reasoning? Anywhere else I could potentially (safely) interrupt the iPad circuit besides the power back to the board, to be triggered by the remote? Any other ideas on how this could work?

See my basic schematic below:

⟐ Edited by author March 24, 2023 at 16:06 MST