⟐ Commented October 20, 2024 at 23:51 MST

⟐ Commented August 01, 2024 at 12:26 MST

Things are pointing towards hardware failure and a fancy paperweight, but what are the odds of saving the device?

⟐ Answered July 07, 2025 at 20:15 MST

Is the unit iFixit sells worth the price premium over others? Why if so?

iFixit does not offer adhesive for this according to their support team, what is recommended for re-attachment?

Anything else to know?

⟐ Edited by author April 24, 2020 at 12:00 MST

Answer:

I knocked off a filter when i was removing the antenna wire.

But as you can see... it is somewhat of a design flaw.

They put the antenna clip very close to the image filter.
They glued the antenna clip in place so it cant knock off a filter on its own.
Getting the antenna off with the glue makes it easy to knock off a filter

Perhaps i would use some rubbing alcohol and some heat next time i try to remove this antenna

These two videos helped me find the problem:
iPad Air 2 repair - Backlight is on but No image on the screen
***NorthridgeFix***
https://youtu.be/6Eux7GBMXW4

Fixing an iPad 6 sent by a repair shop for "no image"
***STS Telecom***
https://youtu.be/FLoGUomonPc

⟐ Commented August 05, 2023 at 15:07 MST

⟐ Answered December 19, 2022 at 20:09 MST

⟐ Answered January 30, 2021 at 19:57 MST

I tried all the usual methods of reset, reboot, hard reset, recovery mode, but there is something wrong with the LED output.

Im assuming this is a circuitry issue, but don't know how to discern that from looking at the internals.

Can anyone tell if this is an issue that some soldering would fix? In other words, do you guys see a visual issue with the board? I don't have anything unplugged in these pictures to expose the pins, would that be necessary to tell if there is an issue?

Thank you!!!

Rick

@flannelist here some pictures I took.

I see some "scuffs" where the arrow points and the components that have the 2 red dots, but am unsure what these are. Does anything stand out? If the resolution is crap, I will post some high res stuff assuming the forum allows.

I appreciate the attempt to identify my issue, but more importantly the info given to help me learn what I'm looking at and how to troubleshoot!!! Thank you

Apple wanted to replace it for $250 for same model, but since this one just crapped out, there was no way I was doing that.

Posting a couple more clearer pics. I have a multimeter and am going to look into how to test the diodes. I assume I'll start with the LED pins and see what I can report back with.

Presumably if this is a diode or board issue, this would still require advanced skills to actually fix, but ideally I could get a shop to fix it for cheap since I might identify the exact issue for them.

⟐ Commented December 23, 2022 at 8:43 MST

I am working on an iPad 7 (2019) that came in for no display. Customer said the screen flashed green and then afterwards only the backlight was visible on the display. No image. The iPad is booting, as you can hear notification sounds and Siri.

I started by simply disassembling the iPad, disconnect the LCD flex cable, clean the connector, and reconnect. Same behavior. Backlight works, no image.

Next, I ordered a new LCD and installed. Same behavior. Thinking the LCD I was sent might be faulty, I received a replacement LCD. Same behavior.

I then removed the logic board and began diode mode tests on the LCD connector (J4100). All of my measurements are virtually the same as what is listed in ZXW Tools except for one pin and that's Pin 16 (EDP_HPD_EMI_CONN) that should be measuring around 1.690 according to ZXW, but mine reads 2.563 - quite a bit higher.

That pin connects to a resistor, a capacitor, another resistor, and an inductor. (R4190, C4190, R4191, and L4190). These 4 components all seemingly make up the EDP_HPD_EMI/EDP_HPD circuit. I measured the resistance of these components except for the capacitor which I just measured a diode mode reading on. I got the following measurements:

R4190: 7.48 kOhms

C4190: 0.483 (diode mode)

R4191: 20.04 kOhms

L4191: 1.2 Ohms

Unfortunately, I cannot know for sure what the proper values of these components are as I do not have another iPad 7 that works to check on. The two resistors in that circuit (R4190/R4191) reading quite different from another makes me suspicious. Then again, it may be totally normal. Without the schematic, it's hard for me to tell whether those two readings are supposed to be that way or if one of them (or both!) might be bad. I was hoping someone who might be a bit more familiar with this than me could look at what I have here and perhaps guide me on how to fix this problem or if I am even looking at the right place for the problem I am having in the first place.

I thought I'd mention that I did also check the EMI filters connected to J4100 and all of them seem to be fine.

I'm attaching a pic with my measurements on the components I have mentioned in this post. The added text in white is what I am measuring at each component. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: I just used the schematic from the iPad Air 2 and found the comparable circuit I am questioning (EDP_HPD_EMI_CONN). It looks like the 7.5 kOhm and 20 kOhm resistors are normal after all, so my earlier thoughts do not apply. So I guess I'm not sure what to do from here.

⟐ Answered November 18, 2022 at 14:24 MST

We took the device to the Apple store and they told us that the internal board is the problem and deemed it unfixable. When asked what the cause could be, they said that it could be a manufacturer defect but since it is beyond the warrantee, the cost for a new 7 gen (no longer manufactured but stocked for such a situation) would be $249.

I would like to know if the internal board is indeed replaceable and if so, would the cost be reasonable? In addition, do you have any suggestions for where to start to find a local technician?

Many thanks for your time :)

⟐ Commented January 15, 2022 at 16:30 MST

So I was practicing with an old iPad I have and removing the power port flex cable from the main connector. I guess I was too impatient and part of the flex cable connector tore off and remains on the main connector. Botched it pretty badly. I don’t know how to remove it and am nervous to rip the pads underneath. There’s also some residue that is stuck on top of the main connector as well. Not sure whether to use more heat or what. Or if it’s just destroyed. I tried heating it a little and used flux and when I tried to clean it with IPA the cotton just got caught so there are strands everywhere. It a mess. Any suggestions? Thank you.

⟐ Answer accepted February 21, 2023 at 19:50 MST

just asking since I have a hard time finding answers, can you buy Apple care after you have already broken your screen? It says I a have 40 more days to apply it but some say u can’t and some say u can

⟐ Answered August 03, 2020 at 6:52 MST

Please help me with iPad 7 WiFi NAND area diode mode readings.

Thanks!

⟐ Answered May 10, 2023 at 20:23 MST

⟐ Answer edited September 22, 2023 at 15:11 MST

Thanks

⟐ Commented January 13, 2025 at 18:41 MST

⟐ Answered April 06, 2024 at 16:44 MST

⟐ Answered June 22, 2023 at 8:51 MST

⟐ Answered March 07, 2023 at 15:35 MST

Anyways - I have tried to repair only my 2nd iPad ever from a family member the other day with just the worst luck. Everything has gone wrong with this repair and I'm so stressed at this point, I can't afford to dump any money into this as I believe I messed this up on my own.

Firstly, I was only asked to replace the screen as it was cracked. Ok, easy enough. Worked on it the other day and finally after 4 hours, got it all back together and done. Went to put the screen on and didn't realize the frame was gashed and CRACKED THE NEW SCREEN.

Anywhom, I said whatever and bought a new one and went to go replace it.

ISSUE THAT I NEED HELP WITH BELOW

• Did a function test with the old cracked screen and the newly cracked screen. All was working as should.
• After installing the new screen(2nd new one) it is now found that the LCD screen is glitching.
• It is that "Ghost Touch" and moves the screen around, types in random passwords ETC.
• I thought maybe it was the LCD itself. Replaced that, did not fix issue.
• I tried with old glass digitizer, this ghost touch glitching problem is still there. I know it's not the digitizer.
• Even if my hands are off the LCD screen and it is ONLY the LCD screen plugged in, I'm getting this ghost touch issue.
• Checked the board connectors and all pins seemed fine. From a visual inspection of the Micro PCB connections, all looked to have no issue. Do not have a microscope, as I'm NOT A PROFESSIONAL. This was only confirmed from a visual inspection.

I really appreciate the help and support, as I've been stressed and really losing it over this thing. Not really sure where else to go.

⟐ Answered March 06, 2023 at 18:34 MST

⟐ Commented June 19, 2022 at 13:49 MST