I got the ipad used already with this issue, so i dont know what could have caused this.

Is there anything i can do to get the home button working again?

⟐ Answered September 04, 2018 at 6:04 MST

⟐ Answered October 24, 2024 at 11:49 MST

I have a ipad 5th gen. I have a couple pads pull off of the logic board leading to the power flex cable. I haven’t found a small enough wire or replacement, so when i start to solder the flex cable certain areas are to high for the others. I figured maybe I will run jumpers. And yes im learning solder lol.

⟐ Commented May 13, 2020 at 16:38 MST

⟐ Answer accepted August 14, 2022 at 16:30 MST

Any ideas?

Thanks

⟐ Commented August 08, 2022 at 14:19 MST

I purchased an iPad described as “badly cracked screen but everything else working perfectly”

When I received it I discovered the home button wasn’t working. I wasn’t too worried as I noted a hole in screen above home button ribbon cable, and I could just order a screen with a button.

After changing screen I have found it is still not working!

Q1. Could I test it with a home button from an iPad 7? Or would that cause damage/not work anyway? (I ask because I have one that I could try)

Q2. If it's not the home button, how hard/easy would it likely by to have problem diagnosed and fixed? The connector looks fine to my eye.

Any advise on course of action would be appreciated

Thanks

⟐ Answer accepted October 29, 2021 at 15:57 MST

⟐ Answer accepted July 01, 2021 at 20:22 MST

ZXW tool and Easy Draw both have schematics and board views for the 4th generation iPad and the iPad Air/2 models, but they don’t seem to have the 5th gen schematics and board view. On the other models, it appears that there are a couple zero ohm resistors in that area, but things look different enough I don’t want to just try it without more information.

Is there a board view for the iPad 5 so I can figure out what the components are surrounding tristar on this board?

⟐ Answered January 20, 2022 at 14:17 MST

One of the iPads charges very slowly and only in a certain connection. I bought it used with this problem. It otherwise functions normally with normal battery life and battery % display is normal. I have not opened it but there is no obvious sign of damage. The charge port was cleaned by me but not much was pulled out. The contacts were lightly cleaned with IPA, no obvious sign of damage to the contacts is seen either. I haven't had any trouble syncing/backing up with iTunes. A DFU restore was also performed but made no difference.

Using a USB ammeter which also gives the state of the data lines, the following info was gathered. The ipad is approximately 55% charged during these tests. Similar results are found with the 10 W charger and combinations of charger/cable. The other tablet charges just fine with these accessories.

12 W charger; no device plugged in

A: 0A

V-: 0V

D-: 2.77V

D+: 2.76V

V+: 5.18V

Ohms: 999.9

Watts: 0W

12 W charger; faulty iPad powered on, same result if in sleep or wake state

A: 0A

V-: 0V

D-: 2.74V

D+: 0.07V

V+: 5.18V

Ohms: 999.9

Watts: 0W

note: Upon plugging in, the iPad briefly wakes up and displays "Unlock iPad to use accessories"; no charging icon is seen.

note2: sometimes the result of this test was:

A: 0.06A

V-: 0V

D-: 2.74V

D+: 0.09V

V+: 5.18V

Ohms: 86.33

Watts: 0.31W

with no "unlock" notification but still no charging icon

12 W charger; faulty iPad powered off after plugging in to charge (if I plugged the tablet in when it was powered off, it would power on)

A: 0.47A

V-: 0V

D-: 2.65V

D+: 0.21V

V+: 5.17V

Ohms: 11

Watts: 2.42W

MacBook Pro; no device plugged in

A: 0A

V-: 0V

D-: 0V

D+: 0V

V+: 5.03V

Ohms: 999

Watts: 0W

MacBook Pro; faulty iPad powered on but in sleep state

A: 0A

V-: 0V

D-: 0V

D+: 0V

V+: 5.03V

Ohms: 999

Watts: 0W

note: Upon plugging in, the iPad briefly wakes up and displays "Unlock iPad to use accessories" notification pops up

MacBook Pro; faulty iPad powered on but in wake state (screen is unlocked)

A: 0.95A

V-: 0V

D-: 0.16V

D+: 0.17V

V+: 4.86V

Ohms: 5.11

Watts: 4.61W

MacBook Pro; faulty iPad powered off

A: 0.47A

V-: 0V

D-: 0V

D+: 0.14V

V+: 4.95V

Ohms: 10.53

Watts: 2.32W

The results on the MacBook were similar for both iPads.

With the charger, the normal iPad charges like this:

12 W charger; normal iPad powered on but in sleep state

A: 2.00A

V-: 0V

D-: 2.65V

D+: 2.65V

V+: 5.13V

Ohms: 2.6

Watts: 10.1W

note: no notification pops up

12 W charger; normal iPad powered off after plugging in to charge

A: 1.89A

V-: 0V

D-: 2.65V

D+: 2.65V

V+: 5.13V

Ohms: 2.7

Watts: 9.7

It seems there may be a problem on the D+ line. It drops to low voltage when a charger is plugged into the faulty iPad. I think this then makes the iPad think it shouldn't draw much power. The best way to charge (0.5 A) is from a charger when powered off.

If this is definitely a tristar/tigris problem, I probably won't attack it myself but if you think this could be a connector problem then I may try to fix it myself.

Thanks for any help.

⟐ Answer edited May 15, 2019 at 23:45 MST

⟐ Commented February 12, 2018 at 11:07 MST

⟐ Answered April 11, 2023 at 1:34 MST

I suspect it is some sort of antennae connection.

I was replacing a damaged glass front screen and they unfortunately broke - need to know if I can replace them.

Thank you in advance for any help.

Regards,

DLC

⟐ Answer accepted June 08, 2019 at 13:32 MST

⟐ Answered April 11, 2019 at 23:25 MST

I completed the repair of my friends iPad A1823 model front display as it was cracked very badly. I bought the ipad display kit and home button grommet from ifixit, all worked great and my friend loved it. The only thing is now the home button wont work unless you roll your finger across the button while pressing. I saw in the repair guide to be careful when migrating the home button from old display to new, and I was super careful. I put a small dab of super glue on each leg of the bracket that holds the home button in place to secure it , and was sure that would hold it all in place, but i guess its not working. My question is since the display is brand new do I only need to buy new adhesive strips from ifixit and then once get the display off get all the current adhesive off and replace with the new strips ? I dont want to do this incorrectly nor buy a whole new display. Also - any thoughts on the home button ? It worked great for me after repair but about 3 days after my friend had the ipad they text me to let me know home button stopped working unless you press it just right.

Any help is appreciated - thank you all

⟐ Answer accepted June 24, 2021 at 16:07 MST

My first impression is the LCD surface has scratches and dust, which is surprising because I ordered a NEW one. Also, I’m not sure if the scratches are over the protective film, because I’m not sure if it has one. There is no easy way to know if it comes with a protective film because it has no tabs to pull it over.

Does anybody has a recommendation?

⟐ Commented January 26, 2021 at 8:13 MST

My 5th gen Ipad a1822 stopped charging shortly after it took a small fall. There are some data and contacts I want to recover from the device, these are fairly important to me and I am willing to spend some money to recover them.

I assume the most likely problems are a fault with the battery, the charging port or some sort of short on the PCB.

I’ve tried a variety of working charging cables, in doing so I observed that the device was still recognizing the cables being plugged in, as the low battery symbol showed up and when I removed the cable, it showed up with the additional lightning cable symbol below the flashing battery one.

But it won’t show the active charging symbol or gain any power. When I connect it to my desktop, it doesn’t detect.

I am assuming there are no other faults with the device because it was working before I let it run out of power. I read some suggestions to reset due to software issues preventing a charge. However, I can’t home screen+power button reset, then again I’ve never tried that from the low battery black screen state, I’m not sure if that is indicative of anything.

My questions are;

Is it an accurate deduction that problem is most likely the battery? Or could it be some connection inside, a short, or even still be the power port despite appearing to detect the cable plugging in and out?

What are my options and what would you do?

Further info:

Repair shops around me (Western Australia) are rather costly, about $150 USD just for the port replacement, I’m not sure about batteries, but I’m sure they’ll tack on another $70-100 USD - I’ll be calling around tomorrow for more information.

I could use this opportunity to practice some tinkering, for a little over $150 USD I can pick up a heat gun / solder / ifixitkit / adhesive / new battery and charging port.

Half a decade ago I replaced some iphone screens, but I have no experience tinkering or repairing apple products and the tight form factor and digitizer are quite intimidating.

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Answered January 22, 2021 at 3:19 MST

I’ve got an iPad 5 (2017), with an unusual high power consumption. I’ve tried multiple different batteries - also known good ones. My customer brought it in with this issue and the first theory was the battery.

Now, i have an idea that it might be tristar IC, or PMIC - but has anyone encountered this before and therefore have experience with it? Any help would be appreciated :)

Thanks in advance, have an awesome day!

Mikkel

⟐ Answered December 10, 2020 at 8:31 MST

⟐ Answered November 04, 2020 at 16:22 MST

I checked vchargr and it was showing 4.2volts.. I changed Tristar and now the line shows 5 volt and I also changed charge flex and that didn’t do anything either…. So I tested vbatt on battery connector while plugged in and it shows 1.4 volts instead of 3.7 volts. I looked at a schematic board view for an iPad Air and they are totally different…

I plugged cable in without battery and the amperage goes to about 0.12 amps 0.15amps 0 then moves around but when I plugged battery back in and it boots, it goes back to 0 amps…

Did I install Tristar wrong or is something on vbatt line bringing the voltage down.. When the iPad boots, an I have cable plugged in, it says unlock device to use accessory then starts charging at 0.5amps which should be 2 amps…

⟐ Answered April 07, 2020 at 20:06 MST

⟐ Answered February 18, 2020 at 14:50 MST