⟐ Answered January 08, 2025 at 8:46 MST

⟐ Edited January 07, 2021 at 16:48 MST

⟐ Commented December 08, 2020 at 11:40 MST

⟐ Commented May 17, 2021 at 22:06 MST

Part of the reason I’m hesitant to do any significant repairs is I know how unreliable the 1537/1697 controllers tend to be. My experience with both series is that they tend to break a lot more often then the 1708, whis is when they finally got it right. Mine isn't as bad as some we've seen here before but it's showing early signs of the same problem I keep seeing crop up. On top of that, the faceplate on mine has a screw hole crack, so it's forever one less screw without a new faceplate. The amount of drift varies by how much the stick moves, so it can be a non issue or impact the controller. However, it is always present to a point.

Since I know what it looks like, I had a suspicion it finally happened. I noticed it in one of the game menus on my PC games because I needed to charge my 1708 controller. Both are about the same age, but I do not have a reliable estimate for the 1708 because I did a total board swap on it due to damaged traces from my first stick only repair.

1697:

1708 (Repaired):

Is there a way I can improve the situation to get a little more life out of it (reversible with new sticks)? I have 4 extra sticks (pulled from 1537 boards) I can try the stick only again once it fails if I cannot do anything to reduce the problem as well.

⟐ Answer accepted November 07, 2018 at 16:33 MST

Does anyone have any ideas?

⟐ Answered January 07, 2021 at 8:57 MST

⟐ Answered February 16, 2024 at 8:50 MST

⟐ Answer edited December 02, 2020 at 13:22 MST

⟐ Answered December 04, 2020 at 19:33 MST

Thanks

⟐ Commented March 01, 2023 at 17:19 MST

While this method works, I've been having a hard time finding a good MicroUSB cable that works well with this controller and doesn't wear out quickly.

The problem with these controllers is the connection is smaller then other MicroUSB connections. I have posted a picture of the connector in the controller for reference: (The Model 1697 controller is a minor refresh from the 1537, and the connector is the same)

Are there any good cable options I should look for that work well with this controller, or is it more or less impossible to find a good one that's 3rd party? The official cable from the Play and Charge kit doesn't work without the battery and doesn't work as a wired cable on the PC. It blocks 5V with the battery or 3.3V without the battery. The PCB in the cable is designed so it only works on the Xbox One console with the battery installed.

⟐ Answer accepted February 07, 2018 at 21:37 MST

how can i change/fix the usb-c port on my controller ?

⟐ Answered July 13, 2021 at 11:57 MST

⟐ Answered March 01, 2019 at 12:51 MST

⟐ Answered June 11, 2018 at 21:39 MST

⟐ Answered May 17, 2018 at 6:58 MST

On the 1537, there is a hardware flaw that allows unpairing if done correctly. I've detailed it in the previous post, found here: Is it possible to unpair these controllers?. This didn't work, so I tried a similar, but different way of doing it on the new controllers:

• Plug it into a PC over USB (this is to get it to try to connect over Wireless)
• Unplug the cable (this makes it try wireless)
• Pair it away from the console, ensuring it can't get a signal

The idea behind this was the pairing would "erase" because it gets invalidated and is considered unusable. This would work because the controller could not fetch clean pairing data.

The new controllers are not working with this method so this was clearly a (very useful) flaw in the hardware on the old controllers. It has since been fixed since the pairing is now persistent enough this no longer works or shows signs of working.

Is there a similar hardware flaw in these new controllers to do this like I did on the 1537's, or is this procedure not an option anymore and I can't get rid of it like I did on my old controller without the PC receiver?

⟐ Marked as duplicate October 10, 2017 at 14:18 MST

⟐ Commented December 22, 2018 at 12:55 MST

As the title says, it seems my x-axis on my XB1 controller is inconsistent when it comes to responding. I'd say about 40% of the time, no input is detected by the controller when going left or right. This is also accompanied by stick drift when moving in the right direction for more than a few seconds.

Is this just a matter of replacing the joystick? Or does the actual module have to be replaced in order to fix this?

Also, my X, Home and B (although not as much) buttons are sticking. I've tried to fix this with isopropyl alcohol but that seems to only temporarily ease the problem. Should I replace those as well or could I clean them off if I disassemble the controller?

Thank you.

My Xbox one trigger has broken. I've found the root cause of my problem. The Trigger bracket (not the piece you unscrew), has snapped on one side. I need to remove the metal pin/rod that holds it and the spring in place.

However, I don't know how this pin is in place or how to pull it out. There's literally nothing on the internet about these pieces.

Help is appreciated

Regards

Jonathan

⟐ Commented March 07, 2024 at 21:49 MST