⟐ Commented October 21, 2025 at 7:04 MST

I have little to no response from both bumpers, and spotty response from my A button, so I’m opening it to see if there’s any obvious issues that I can solve.

As soon as I opened it I found a loose screw stuck to one of the paddle magnets, but no obvious hole for it. I think it’s a T5 – it’s very small. I’m not sure if it’s something that got left behind from the manufacturer or if there’s a job it’s supposed to be doing.

The bumpers look like they’re depressing fine when I press them with the front casing removed, so I’m not sure what the issue is.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

⟐ Edited January 10, 2023 at 1:41 MST

I'm assuming the actual issue of compatibility is the different style of stem that has a thread to screw the Elite series thumbstick cover on. If that is the case, then my second question is if it is possible to replace the stem of the Gulikit thumbstick with the stems from Elite thumbsticks or not? I would really like to be able to replace the thumbsticks with TMR type if possible. The product page states that lack of calibration software is the issue, but I believe that is incorrect and the real problem is the stem difference. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone that has attempted this or knows enough about the TMR joysticks to know if they can be modified to fit the Elite 2. Thanks.

⟐ Commented March 22, 2026 at 15:59 MST

How would you fix that? Are there just contacts and a spring that need to be cleaned? Or are there switches that you can buy separately and replace (if so I couldn't find any)? Or would you need an entirely new board?

⟐ Commented July 08, 2023 at 16:55 MST

Electronic part before it's gone:

Mark on the component:

Just a picture of the capacitor before ...

First, thanks for your reply. I appriciate your help with this. For Q1.1 I can just say, that I have guessed this could be a capacitor. Sorry for the confusion. Now I agree to OldTurkey03 that this could be a diode.

For Q1.2 I have made a picture of the same component on the other side of the controller board. It has the same mark on it like the missing one. So this should help to find the right type. But I could not find anything like this on internet.

To Q1.3 the white shiny material on the controller board is not a water mark. It behavior is like skin cream. You can find it on every solder of this controller board. I had also never a water damage with this controller.

Addtional to the question I can tell you how I losed the component:

The controlles had a left thumb-stick issue. So I wanted to replace the analog stick with a new one. To remove the analog stick I had to heat up the solder higher than I thought. This heated up also the controller board and the component next to the solder of the analog stick. I didnt saw that and after removing the analog stick the component was also missing.

If I follow the electrical lines on the controller board the component seems to be a part of the vibrations motors. The buttons of the controller are still working. But I could not check the vibrations motor sepratly.

So I hope this helps to understand my issue... thanks again for your time and please don't be angry about my english. It's not my motherlanguage.

⟐ Edited by author April 11, 2023 at 5:14 MST

I recently bought a pair of analog stick from Ali.

I successfully replaced the left stick of an Elite 2 controller just a moth ago with no problem. Today, since my other Elite 2 Core had some issue with a wobbly right stick I decided to replace it aswell.

I ended up with a crazy input from that stick.

Could it be a damaged unit, or is more possible that I did something wrong?

To disassemble the faulty analog stick I broke it with pliers, just like I did for the other controller, and I don't i damaged anything in that process.

My only concern is that to remove a pin i struggled a bit and it took a lot of time, so maybe I damaged something overheating it?

I tested the controller with an online tester and this is what it looks like. I did nothing to the left stick, i replaced only the right one

Here’s the picture, i forgot earlier

The circled connection is the one I struggled the most, and it seems like I deformed a bit the hole (I don’t know the correct terminology 😅)

⟐ Answered November 28, 2025 at 14:32 MST

⟐ Answered May 27, 2024 at 18:01 MST

However once powered up like this I can remove external power source or dock and use wireless as normal, the home button also works in the xbox menu!

It just won't power on when wireless...

Battery is OK as I've swapped it already.

All board connections pads are clean and carbon free.

Any ideas guys n gals

I'm not scared of Pad/trace repairs confident soldering with iron or air, but this has me stumped.....

⟐ Answered March 26, 2026 at 12:08 MST

has anyone tried to fix the paddle boards? Mine don’t respond at all (the buttons themselves don’t).

Thanks!

⟐ Commented September 09, 2023 at 23:15 MST

On wireless, the controller looks as if it goes into discoverable mode, but no bluetooth devices can discovery it.

I’m assuming some control chip has gone bad, but I’m unsure which of the two PCB’s the controller is on.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Kind Regards

Liam :)

⟐ Answered January 09, 2022 at 8:39 MST

So I circle where you solder on the right side you solder to the right side of that little diod guy idk what ya call it and the one on the left side you solder to the bottom what he ended up doing on the left side diod guy was fill both sides together he did also get the joystick pretty hot and melted it some

⟐ Commented November 04, 2025 at 9:09 MST

⟐ Commented June 06, 2025 at 12:49 MST

⟐ Answered April 24, 2025 at 0:35 MST

⟐ Answered August 19, 2024 at 22:35 MST

⟐ Answered July 22, 2024 at 2:30 MST

⟐ Answered May 18, 2024 at 0:22 MST

I'm dealing with a controller that suffered water damage but would power on when it was plugged in. I wanted to open it up and see if I could just clean it out to get the battery charging but if not planned to replace the battery. Cleaned it up, put it back together and now it wouldn't turn on even when plugged in. Now that I replaced the battery and the battery contacts, it still does not power on. I did notice discoloration (burn marks?) on one of the circular batteries underneath. Short of the actual board being bad this is the only thing I could think of but I'm not sure exactly what their function are and if could cause this issue.

⟐ Answer edited June 06, 2023 at 22:21 MST

I had my elite controller plugged into my headset.

It electrocuted my head so I threw it off .

Then it stopped working .

The battery has blown when I opened it up .

So changed the battery I can't see any damage on the board but it won't turn on , no matter what I try ?

Any ideas thanks

⟐ Commented March 25, 2026 at 23:18 MST

⟐ Commented March 25, 2026 at 15:17 MST