⟐ Answered April 14, 2026 at 16:33 MST

However once powered up like this I can remove external power source or dock and use wireless as normal, the home button also works in the xbox menu!

It just won't power on when wireless...

Battery is OK as I've swapped it already.

All board connections pads are clean and carbon free.

Any ideas guys n gals

I'm not scared of Pad/trace repairs confident soldering with iron or air, but this has me stumped.....

⟐ Answered March 26, 2026 at 12:08 MST

I had my elite controller plugged into my headset.

It electrocuted my head so I threw it off .

Then it stopped working .

The battery has blown when I opened it up .

So changed the battery I can't see any damage on the board but it won't turn on , no matter what I try ?

Any ideas thanks

⟐ Commented March 25, 2026 at 23:18 MST

⟐ Commented March 25, 2026 at 15:17 MST

I'm assuming the actual issue of compatibility is the different style of stem that has a thread to screw the Elite series thumbstick cover on. If that is the case, then my second question is if it is possible to replace the stem of the Gulikit thumbstick with the stems from Elite thumbsticks or not? I would really like to be able to replace the thumbsticks with TMR type if possible. The product page states that lack of calibration software is the issue, but I believe that is incorrect and the real problem is the stem difference. I would appreciate any feedback from anyone that has attempted this or knows enough about the TMR joysticks to know if they can be modified to fit the Elite 2. Thanks.

⟐ Commented March 22, 2026 at 15:59 MST

⟐ Answered March 19, 2026 at 3:33 MST

⟐ Answered February 14, 2026 at 11:54 MST

I recently bought a pair of analog stick from Ali.

I successfully replaced the left stick of an Elite 2 controller just a moth ago with no problem. Today, since my other Elite 2 Core had some issue with a wobbly right stick I decided to replace it aswell.

I ended up with a crazy input from that stick.

Could it be a damaged unit, or is more possible that I did something wrong?

To disassemble the faulty analog stick I broke it with pliers, just like I did for the other controller, and I don't i damaged anything in that process.

My only concern is that to remove a pin i struggled a bit and it took a lot of time, so maybe I damaged something overheating it?

I tested the controller with an online tester and this is what it looks like. I did nothing to the left stick, i replaced only the right one

Here’s the picture, i forgot earlier

The circled connection is the one I struggled the most, and it seems like I deformed a bit the hole (I don’t know the correct terminology 😅)

⟐ Answered November 28, 2025 at 14:32 MST

So I circle where you solder on the right side you solder to the right side of that little diod guy idk what ya call it and the one on the left side you solder to the bottom what he ended up doing on the left side diod guy was fill both sides together he did also get the joystick pretty hot and melted it some

⟐ Commented November 04, 2025 at 9:09 MST

⟐ Commented October 21, 2025 at 7:04 MST

I got a elite series 2 controller that had a swollen dead battery which I changed out for a new one purchased directly from microsoft. However it still wouldn't turn on.

So I went ahead and opened it back up, took out the MB PCB, the one with the joysticks, and started to check it over. Quickly I noticed that capacitor C039 had some corrosion on one end so I started checking for shorts in that area and low and behold, C039 showed up as shorted which caused a few other capacitors to show shorted as well. Removed C039 and the shorts on the surrounding capacitors went away. So I am pretty sure C039 is the reason why the controller isn't working. Then noticed nearby was what looked like a fuse which showed as OL So I removed that also. However when I look it up in the boardview it shows up as C034 as if it actually was a capacitor instead. Couldn't get a capacitance reading of it even with it off the board. Does anyone know what value this capacitor and fuse/capacitor are supposed to be?

TLDR: what are the values of C034 and C039? (marked in image with red outline)

Sincerely,

Rick.

edit: boardview I found unfortunately did not have an attached schematic, so can only look up their reference numbers but not their values.

⟐ Edited by author August 12, 2025 at 18:43 MST

⟐ Answer accepted June 24, 2025 at 14:02 MST

⟐ Commented June 06, 2025 at 12:49 MST

I recently fully swapped the shell of the controller due to cracks (the housing of some screws were broken so the board wasn't secured to the shell tight enough to have the paddle contacts connect). It doesn't seem like there's anything I could have done wrong during this process relating to the battery.

It does properly change states if I put it on the dock, take it off the dock, plug in a wire, or unplug the wire. It properly detects it's not plugged in if I turn off controller and turn it back on while the console is on. It doesn't happen every time I turn the console on either, sometimes it turns on and correctly reports its not plugged in.

This issue was happening before a firmware update, after firmware update, after reverting firmware, and then also reupdating

The battery's level MAY be reading correctly. I know it has a long life but it only just hit reporting medium charge.

One other thing is I connected it to PC using bluetooth. Connected devices at the time said "100%" but gamebar said something like HID compliant controller critical (when mousing over battery indicator), I don't recall the exact string.

Just concerned it thinking it's plugged in when its not could mess with actual charging (at least at worst it's overreporting rather than under, so it shouldn't try to overcharge itself).

Looks like it's probably Xbox software issue (specifically the Xbox Accessories app it seems) over it being a controller hardware or firmware issue based on what I've seen with it. The controller does seem to know its battery level regardless since the charge light finally went amber.

⟐ Commented May 16, 2025 at 2:44 MST

⟐ Answered April 24, 2025 at 0:35 MST

I have an Elite Series 2 Controller that's sustained a little water damage just below the left analog stick, front side. Anyone here happen to know the value of this cap? Much appreciated.

Jihiro

⟐ Edited February 07, 2025 at 9:18 MST

⟐ Answered January 21, 2025 at 3:02 MST