Basically I received this controller lightly used when I bought this guys Xbox one X. No issues whatsoever except the grips began to come undone and I eventually replaced the side panels. Two months later I decide to get an Elite II because I’m a sucker. Elite II has left stick problems of its own so I sent it back to Microsoft and pulled out the Elite I to use in the interim. Not 12 hours into my Elite-II absent depression I started to notice the issue. Thought it was latency or maybe something breaking because of the update that was being pushed in the coming days. Then I thought I had set the hair triggers “too thin” and that my grip on the device was unintentionally bringing the trigger in close enough to register a pull. I set the RT deadzone deep into the trigger well but the problem persisted. I confirmed this in the accessories app. After it really got bad (trigger firing without depressing the left stick at all) I began looking online.

I will do my best do describe what happens in game. I hope this will provide necessary details of the end result so that we can trace the issue back to something in the control itself.

The bug/defect’s manifestation on screen occurs when trying to run. It causes failure in the running movement’s performance while simultaneously resulting in unwanted rounds being discharged. What’s interesting is that the weapon is stuck between its running animation position and its “sprint to fire” position. If you are unfamiliar with Modern Warfare understand that is impossible to fire a weapon while running. If sprinting is interrupted by the intentional act of engaging targets the character model will stop running as soon as the trigger is pulled but that pull will not result in the weapon being fired until the character has slowed to a default “shoot while moving” pace. It is possible for rounds to exit the weapon in the frames between the cessation of sprinting and the point where one of 4 possible firing positions is achieved but they end up in the ground or on a diagonal way from the character model’s front because the muzzle was previously pointed at the ground. The motion of “stopping a run to engage” is not holdable firing position because the character model would be forever “stopping his/her forward motion.” while “raising the weapon to hip or shoulder fire.” This is simply impossible. Thus, when this bug occurs it almost suspends the character model in that “coming to a stop” stance as the barrel toggles rapidly between a "low ready run" and snapping up to where the barrel would be pointing during an intentional engagement (this is mostly input data collected from the right analog). The gun wont fire when it snaps up the first time but if the left analog stays engaged it will sometimes fire a round or two when it snaps back down. I have resorted to walking as fast as I can around the map to avoid this issue but am then faced with the random RT registrations that come without the depression of the left analog. This just means I’m walking with the gun out in front of me and it’ll suddenly fire. Sometimes it’ll still fire a few rounds after I take my thumb off the left analog and let it come back to 0,0.

Seems very rare. I have tried all suggested solutions (swapping out different thumb stick types worked for for a few hours but the issue came back as worse as it was before even with constant recycling of a myriad of thumb-stick combos and layouts. Same thing the next day- was fine for a few hours but then awful. Almost like the controller needs to cool down or forget what left stick forward feels like in order to work again…

I don’t know much about chips and boards but I understand the basics and I understand wiring. This controller isn’t “expendable” to the point where I would gut it out of general curiosity but I’m really impatient and don’t know how long MS will take to send the Elite II back. However, there is no way I’ll send this in for payed service at MS because the cost is not worth the trouble. That BEING SAID- I’m deeply bothered by the fact that both threads documenting this issue were archived due to lack of progress and/or lack of OPs ‘responses despite other users confirming numerous cases of the bug. Deeply bothered.

So I’m going to open it up right now and look for dirt or anything clearly out of place but aside from that I’m stuck. I hope someone knows how to fix this or is also weirdly bothered by its lack of resolution and would like to use their knowledge of the Elite I’s internals to help me poke at a dismantled controller correctly. I can’t sleep thinking about how OP never came back to his post. Please help.

⟐ Commented September 30, 2024 at 22:11 MST

⟐ Answer edited December 20, 2024 at 13:02 MST

Even when it is plugged in it acts like its not plugged in and I plugged in the headset hard and still wont work. What do I need to do?

⟐ Answered August 07, 2023 at 20:38 MST

(I would’ve selected the correct device, however Elite 1 was the only option)

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented April 27, 2023 at 21:06 MST

⟐ Commented November 12, 2022 at 8:38 MST

⟐ Answer edited January 07, 2021 at 12:27 MST

⟐ Edited by author November 12, 2017 at 16:18 MST

Does anyone know the correct spec part for replacing this transistor?

It’s on the back of the main board, next to the pins for the left stick potentiometer (circled in blue).

⟐ Commented August 25, 2025 at 19:13 MST

⟐ Commented December 19, 2023 at 19:40 MST

⟐ Answered May 09, 2022 at 1:25 MST

⟐ Comment deleted March 02, 2022 at 2:34 MST

⟐ Commented August 18, 2024 at 20:46 MST

⟐ Answer edited October 28, 2022 at 6:32 MST

⟐ Commented March 30, 2021 at 16:41 MST

It's hard to describe, but I can pull it up and down. In other words, if I shake the controller, the left joystick rattles in the case.

It works for the most part, but if I'm not holding the controller vertically, it can cause some unintended movement of the potentiometer.

My question is, is the problem likely to be the joystick knob (little silver thing that looks like a nipple) or the potentiometer? One of them is fairly easy to replace and doesn't require soldering, and the other is way above my soldering skill.

Probably the issue is completely my fault. Yesterday tried to clean sticky left trigger that annoyed me for ages, used alcohol. Luckily the trigger problem was resolved in seconds, but after a short while the main problem appeared.

After cleaning I put official battery pack back and Xbox button started randomly flashing, next I removed the battery pack and waited about 30 mins in hopes that alcohol remains fully dry. Unfortunately after the controller found the console and paired it turned off making strange buzzing noise. I waited a bit more and even tried to use drier, but these pitiful attempts have led nowhere.

Later I removed the battery pack and connected controller directly to the console by cable and found out that many buttons were pressed by themselves, and the sticks behaved the same. At that moment I decided to disassemble the controller and clean it. Managed to did it without further unfortunate consequences, tried to clean it as good as I can and then assembled the controller again. Cleaning solved the problems with buttons and sticks, but the main issue remained, the controller disconnects when using official battery pack right after connecting to Xbox or PC (yes, i tried on PC too).

Strange but the controller works perfectly by cable OR with regular batteries, as soon as I put official battery pack it disconnects after pairing in 4-5 seconds.

I even tried to reflow the solder of battery connectors. This action as well did nothing. The controller works and fully operational, the only problem is disconnect with official battery pack.

Before you suggest that the problem lies in the official battery pack… I put it in another controller to test and it works perfectly.

I will attach photos of both motherboards in case some of you can spot the problem immediately.

Close up

I completely lost at this point and don’t know what to do.

⟐ Commented January 11, 2022 at 7:06 MST

Two days ago, THE EXACT SAME THING happened to my elite controller that was originally purchased at a different time in a different color, this controller was used on a different xbox with a different gamertag, with a different headset brand. The exact same problem happened randomly. I tried all the steps listed above. Has anyone heard of this? I am now thinking these controllers just fail after a while. My controller is about two years old and hers is about one and a half. Should I replace the boards? Do you know which board it would be? I really don’t want to buy new controllers, but I also don’t want to waste time and money on repairs that don’t work.

Thank you for any help or input!

⟐ Commented January 22, 2019 at 16:35 MST

I bought the expansive Xbox Elite controller, few days ago.

nothing wrong with it (it's better than the "normal" Xbox controller), but I have one problem :

I have an eye problem, and the button on the Xbox Elite controller are all "Gray" coloured (or smoked... ).

Microsoft had the bright idea to wash all the yellow, blue red or green colour of the button with gray colours...

I'm still new to the xbox, so I don't know the buttons by heart..

Anyway, my question :

Can someone confirm that the " Xbox One Controller Action Button Covers " sold inside ifix store are compatible for the "normal" Xbox controller AND the Xbox Elite controller ?

Thanks in advance for your reply !

Cheers

⟐ Edited August 18, 2017 at 1:47 MST

⟐ Commented February 28, 2021 at 14:00 MST