⟐ Commented April 01, 2026 at 3:47 MST

⟐ Commented March 26, 2026 at 16:54 MST

⟐ Commented March 18, 2026 at 11:02 MST

Apon replacing the joysticks and testing it via online drifting tools, its smack bang in the middle with zero play but my controller will still pull downwards on the menu no matter what.

I’ve completely cleaned the entire controller inside with 99% iso with a brush.

Heres a video of it.

https://streamable.com/rqcxqg

⟐ Commented February 22, 2026 at 14:42 MST

⟐ Commented January 10, 2026 at 16:22 MST

The problem comes with the replacements, I have an PDP xbox controller motherboard with a lot of resistances, but I encountered that most of them are lower (68 - 70 ohms) or higher (150 ohms) capacity than the original (100 ohms) according to the schematic. I have enough soldering skills to do the job, but I was wondering if there will be any serious problems if I replace the resistance with a lower or higher one. Will I have more problems with it? Could it destroy my controller? I made this post because I could buy one on AliExpress, but I want to speed up the process without mentioning it to the professionals first.

I hope you can all help me. I will attach the exact schematic and the part of the resistance for more details. If you have any other information about my problem, such as the exact resistance I need or if there is something else on the controller causing the LT button to be pressed all the time, I would be very grateful. Thank you and have a good day everyone.
https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schemat...

XB1 1537 BOTTOM BOARD

Ive recently taken apart two of these controllers. I cleaned them and did minor repairs.

After the reassembly i experienced the exact same problem with both of the controllers. The RB-bumper button got somewhat sticky and doesnt always release. It also became somewhat unresponsive when clicking the button on the very edge. The LB didnt show any of these issues.

I've tried:

Inspecting and cleaning any parts of the controller that could interfere.

Replacing the bumper itself.

Removed the trigger buttons and cables to the vibratingmotors. (issue persisted with them removed)

I already ordered a new plastic house or whatever it's called. But when my second controller got the exact same issue, I'm not so sure that will solve anything.

I have seen on some videos that there is a plastic membran between the actual trigger button on the motherboard and the plastic teeth on the bumper. I did not notice these in my controller when taking it apart, could they have been lost and cause this issue?

Any help is appreciated.

So I circle where you solder on the right side you solder to the right side of that little diod guy idk what ya call it and the one on the left side you solder to the bottom what he ended up doing on the left side diod guy was fill both sides together he did also get the joystick pretty hot and melted it some

⟐ Commented November 04, 2025 at 9:09 MST

⟐ Commented September 26, 2025 at 18:45 MST

⟐ Commented August 16, 2025 at 8:34 MST

I got a elite series 2 controller that had a swollen dead battery which I changed out for a new one purchased directly from microsoft. However it still wouldn't turn on.

So I went ahead and opened it back up, took out the MB PCB, the one with the joysticks, and started to check it over. Quickly I noticed that capacitor C039 had some corrosion on one end so I started checking for shorts in that area and low and behold, C039 showed up as shorted which caused a few other capacitors to show shorted as well. Removed C039 and the shorts on the surrounding capacitors went away. So I am pretty sure C039 is the reason why the controller isn't working. Then noticed nearby was what looked like a fuse which showed as OL So I removed that also. However when I look it up in the boardview it shows up as C034 as if it actually was a capacitor instead. Couldn't get a capacitance reading of it even with it off the board. Does anyone know what value this capacitor and fuse/capacitor are supposed to be?

TLDR: what are the values of C034 and C039? (marked in image with red outline)

Sincerely,

Rick.

edit: boardview I found unfortunately did not have an attached schematic, so can only look up their reference numbers but not their values.

⟐ Edited by author August 12, 2025 at 18:43 MST

I did find Board scans and on the "1914 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP" corrosion was very bad on C36+C43 and R7+R4+C37+EG2. I cleaned it off and lost C36. The pads are still there but now I'm not sure what to google to find the values of all the components. I'm looking for C36 specifically but there is some others around the board that do not look very good and might need to be replaced.

Any one have any suggestions? I'm just getting started. It might be beyond my skill level but at least I'll learn how to replace tiny components like that.

Thanks!

@dan0 Sure. here are some pics. C36 is missing, not sure how to find the value of it online.

⟐ Commented August 12, 2025 at 4:57 MST

⟐ Commented August 03, 2025 at 23:06 MST

⟐ Commented June 16, 2025 at 0:10 MST

⟐ Commented June 06, 2025 at 12:49 MST

Will a new thumb stick likely resolve the issue? Would it make sense to swap the left and right sticks to see if the problem follows?

⟐ Commented June 05, 2025 at 9:57 MST

I recently fully swapped the shell of the controller due to cracks (the housing of some screws were broken so the board wasn't secured to the shell tight enough to have the paddle contacts connect). It doesn't seem like there's anything I could have done wrong during this process relating to the battery.

It does properly change states if I put it on the dock, take it off the dock, plug in a wire, or unplug the wire. It properly detects it's not plugged in if I turn off controller and turn it back on while the console is on. It doesn't happen every time I turn the console on either, sometimes it turns on and correctly reports its not plugged in.

This issue was happening before a firmware update, after firmware update, after reverting firmware, and then also reupdating

The battery's level MAY be reading correctly. I know it has a long life but it only just hit reporting medium charge.

One other thing is I connected it to PC using bluetooth. Connected devices at the time said "100%" but gamebar said something like HID compliant controller critical (when mousing over battery indicator), I don't recall the exact string.

Just concerned it thinking it's plugged in when its not could mess with actual charging (at least at worst it's overreporting rather than under, so it shouldn't try to overcharge itself).

Looks like it's probably Xbox software issue (specifically the Xbox Accessories app it seems) over it being a controller hardware or firmware issue based on what I've seen with it. The controller does seem to know its battery level regardless since the charge light finally went amber.

⟐ Commented May 16, 2025 at 2:44 MST