my original xbox drive once turned on and you press the eject button, the tray opens and then closes constantly and does not stop unless you switch off the unit.

there is no way to stop it from opening and closing.

what do you see as the issue? do I need to replace my drive?

⟐ Commented March 27, 2026 at 16:03 MST

Symptoms:

Boots normally, fan spins, runs for ~4–5 minutes then hard shutdown (power cuts off completely).

Fast alternating orange/green flashing LED the whole time.

Same exact behavior on two different version 1.6 motherboards (Tuscany).

No HDD or DVD drive connected (minimal PSU + board only test).

Troubleshooting already done:

Replaced thermal paste on CPU & GPU (old stuff was cracked/shrunken). No change.

Fan confirmed working normally.

Swapped power supplies (tested with known-good PSU). Same shutdown.

Measured resistance on 12V yellow wire to ground: 0.557 MΩ (no short).

Observed 12V rail drops to ~5V right at shutdown.

Clock capacitor not bulging; no visible leakage/corrosion near it or Xyclops.

No bulging/leaking on any electrolytic caps (including five 3300µF ones near power/CPU/GPU).

Not using original AV cable (none plugged in during tests) → explains orange/green flashing ("no AV pack detected"), but shutdown persists.

Tested with no peripherals; same result on both boards.

Conclusion so far:

Not PSU, not thermal paste/heatsink, not obvious cap failure, not HDD/DVD, not simple short. Seems like false overheating protection (integrated temp sensing in Xyclops chip) Xyclops/temp diode path

Traces look good

Ive also confirmed from what I can see traces are good

⟐ Answered January 19, 2026 at 21:02 MST

Looking at another Xbox I believe the bands on the resistor are Yellow, Brown, Orange. Indicating a 41 kΩ. The problem is I don't know the wattage or the tolerance. Does any one know what I would need to buy to replace this burnt out resistor to prevent it from burning out again? Thanks for taking the time to read and reply.

⟐ Commented January 07, 2026 at 10:06 MST

⟐ Edited by author December 21, 2025 at 22:47 MST

Here's photos of the motherboard and a video of how the xbox acted right after the second wiring was done : https://imgur.com/a/ODIXlty

As of right now when i plug it in there's nothing but a dim red light.

Please help i just want to be able to play halo 2 :(

⟐ Commented October 23, 2025 at 6:19 MST

UPDATE 1:

This is the photo of the clock capacitor

UPDATE 2:

Ok I installed the new capacitors near the CPU. I guess the last one is the clock one. Below are a couple of photos after install and cleaning the board...

⟐ Commented August 19, 2025 at 9:19 MST

So I downloaded TruHexen 2021 iso (I also tried 2019 with same issue) and burned it to a blank CD-R 4.7GB DVD disc at 4x speed. It only works at 4x and 8x, I chose the slowest. I am using imburn to burn the image. I tried 2 different disc brands, verbatim with azo dye and maxell. Whatever disc I burn, my xbox will not boot off of. I put the disc into the drive, turn it off, then back on, you can feel the drive spin up and you can hear it going.

It sits at the initial xbox boot up screen for about 10-15 seconds, then the microsoft logo shows and it goes to the dashboard with the message xbox cant recognize the disc. I tried different disk drives, different IDE cables, different xbox consoles. All the same issue. The disc drive brands are Samsung, Thompson and philips.

Again, I can put a game into the same disc drives and they load just fine. What am I doing wrong? Is the CD-R discs too new? I bought them the other day. I also have a brand new LG external CD disc writer as the one in my computer does not read CD-R's. What am I doing wrong?

BTW the one disc drive I know that fully works is a Samsung SDG-605B (Ver. B)

⟐ Commented August 11, 2025 at 7:44 MST

⟐ Answered July 16, 2025 at 2:53 MST

Motherboard pics

⟐ Commented May 25, 2025 at 4:13 MST

Samsung SDG-605 X00603-005

HDD - Seagate ST310014ACE

K:1.00.5101.01

D:1.00.5960.01

The Xbox boots up fine, going to the splash screen with a solid green light. When you open up the DVD drive, sometimes the trey opens up fine, other times it needs a little help with a paperclip. It usually closes ok. When the game disc is in, the front blinks green for awhile, but eventually goes solid green. You can feel vibrations on the DVD drive (I think the disc is spinning), but nothing on the screen indicates the disc is being read.

The Xbox does not give any sort of feedback on the screen that there's a problem. There are no error codes. It acts the same as if no disc was even inserted.

⟐ Commented April 24, 2025 at 16:49 MST

I have an Xbox 1.3 modified with openxenium

I made the recaping of all the capacitors

I removed the the Clock capacitor (But even leaving it, after replacing it with a good one, it doesn't change anything)

The console after a few minutes of operation starts to open and close the dvd tray (with variable intervals, sometimes full open and full closed several times, other times intermittently until full opening and in the same way until complete closure and then restart again)

If I try to turn it off (both via button and via command from Dashboard or from the openxenium menu) it turns on again immediately

I have 2 working openxenium doesn't change anything with one or the other

If I turn off the power even just a few seconds when I reconnect the power remains off but if I turn it back on yes the problem repeats

If it is disconnected from the power one night, the shutdown will work properly again, but when it reaches the usual operating time, the problem restarts.

The problem was also present before the replacement of the capacitors.

I'm waiting for the arrival of the esr tester to check all the capacitors.

I'll start by saying that I also have another xbox that worked from which I took the following parts:
- dvd
- power button / dvd open button

I've already replaced the dvd player but the problem remains.

I've already replaced the power lock (power button and dvd open button)

Do you have any advice?!

Thanks for the help 🙏🙏🙏

⟐ Edited by author April 07, 2025 at 6:50 MST

⟐ Answered March 22, 2025 at 16:48 MST

After changing the leaking caps for new ones and connecting everything back up it didn't turn on. The weird thing is that now when the PSU is plugged into the mobo it gives no readings however when it is unplugged from the board it gives all the correct readings.

I haven't done anything to the PSU and have no idea why it would be behaving this way, when I know it was definitely giving correct readings while connected to the board before changing the caps.

Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions that could potentially lead to a solution here? Any help is appreciated

Cheers

Levi

⟐ Commented March 04, 2025 at 4:01 MST

⟐ Answered March 03, 2025 at 3:43 MST

Needs to be swapped and i cant find the correct crimp contacts, i have looked at a similar one which is the (Molex KK 254 female crimp terminals) but it is not similar to the one that i need.

Does anyone know what the name of the correct ones are?

⟐ Answered February 19, 2025 at 23:20 MST

I am currently working on repairing an original xbox with a foxlink psu model FTPS-0002. I plugged it in when i bought it and it went bang. I have located a couple of components i am unable to identify as they have blown out, and hopefully someone will be able to identify them for me. The components are located on a small board soldered into the middle of the PSU itself. Please refer to photos for more specific information. Any more information that may be needed please ask.

Thank you,

Levi

⟐ Commented January 20, 2025 at 1:03 MST

⟐ Commented January 10, 2025 at 3:41 MST

While de-soldering an SMD capacitor (the round, silver one, 47 μF 16V) from my Xbox Original, I ripped off a solder pad.

What can I do now? Do I need special tools to solder on a new one? Or can I just leave it out, what would happen if I do?

⟐ Answered December 16, 2024 at 7:46 MST

⟐ Answer accepted December 03, 2024 at 18:55 MST

⟐ Answered December 02, 2024 at 6:02 MST