Need help safely opening a Wacom MobileStudio Pro (DTH-W1621)

Hi everyone,

I’m trying to open my partner’s Wacom MobileStudio Pro 16" (DTH-W1621) to clean the cooling system and replace the thermal paste on the NVIDIA Quadro P1000 GPU, which is reaching over 100 °C under load.
(Toon Boom Storyboard Pro triggers an NVIDIA OpenGL Driver crash and then a BSOD “VIDEO_DXGKRNL_FATAL_ERROR”.)

I’ve tried everything software-related (drivers, updates, system cleanup, etc.) but nothing has worked — so I’m now focusing on the hardware side.

I’ve already removed the back panel (RAM and SSD access), the fan section, and the connector board cover, but I’m stuck at separating the main glass screen from the chassis.

Before going any further, I really want to avoid damaging the screen or the machine.

Here are my main questions:

1. Should I lift the glass screen itself, or the plastic bezel around it?
2. Where are the best entry points for plastic picks or spudgers?
3. Are there any fragile areas or ribbon cables right under the glass?
4. And if anyone has photos, videos, or internal diagrams of the 16" model, I’d be very grateful!

I’ve got all the proper tools (iOpener, suction cups, plastic spudgers, etc.), and I’m taking my time to do this cleanly.

Thanks a lot in advance for any advice or experience you can share — especially if you’ve already opened this tablet or replaced the thermal paste. 🙏

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Besoin d’aide pour démonter proprement une Wacom MobileStudio Pro (DTH-W1621)

Bonjour à tous,

Je cherche à ouvrir la Wacom MobileStudio Pro de ma compagne (modèle 16", DTH-W1621) afin de nettoyer le système de refroidissement et refaire la pâte thermique de la carte graphique NVIDIA Quadro P1000, qui monte à plus de 100 °C sous charge (Toon Boom Storyboard Pro déclenche un crash NVIDIA OpenGL Driver puis un BSOD “VIDEO_DXGKRNL_FATAL_ERROR”).

J’ai tout essayé côté pilote, logiciel... Rien n’y fait, donc je me penche maintenant sur le matériel et les composants.

J’ai déjà retiré le panneau arrière (accès à la RAM et au SSD), la partie sur les ventilateurs, et la partie avec les connectiques, mais je bloque sur la séparation de l’écran principal (verre collé) du châssis.

Avant d’aller plus loin, j’aimerais éviter tout dommage sur l’écran et la machine.

Voici mes questions :

1. Faut-il soulever directement l’écran, ou bien la bordure autour de l’écran ?
2. Où se trouvent les meilleurs points d’entrée pour les médiators ou spudgers ?
3. Y a-t-il des zones fragiles sous la partie à soulever ?
4. Enfin, si quelqu’un a des photos, vidéos ou schémas internes du modèle 16", je suis preneur.

Normalement j’ai tout ce qu’il faut pour faire les choses proprement (ventouses, iOpener, spudgers, etc.).

Merci d’avance pour vos conseils et retours d’expérience, surtout si quelqu’un a déjà ouvert cette tablette ou remplacé la pâte thermique. 🙏

My model :

Video's model :

⟐ Edited by author October 05, 2025 at 11:16 MST

⟐ Commented August 16, 2025 at 21:26 MST

Electronics are fine and the pen is functioning.

I called Wacom support and was told they do not repair these and I need to buy a new one. A 3rd party repair is my only option aside from buying a new pen.

⟐ Commented September 01, 2023 at 3:34 MST

The display has a built-in DVI-I cable.

The following inputs will display a picture on the device

• DVI-I direct input
• DVI-I to VGA (using the supplied VGA to DVI-I adapter [88741-9100, Molex])

The following will no longer display a picture on the device. But they were working until recently:

• DVI-I to HDMI (using a 3rd party adapter)
• DV-I to Thunderbolt (using Apple thunderbolt adapter).

Does anyone know why these adapters would suddenly stop working? I have tried them on other displays, and they work perfectly, so I know the adapter is not a problem.

The unit comes with DVI-D to DVI-I adapter (88741-9400, Molex) but it makes no difference if this is used or not with the adapters that no longer work.

Here is a picture of what the pins look like on the built-in DVI-I cable:

It doesn't look like any of the pins are bent.

Anyone have a suggestion?

Same result on different computers, hitting the power button again repeats the behavior, in the background Win 10 detects everything until the screen turns off.

It came from no where. Its not software as, when I change monitors, its not on other monitors. So I’m thinking its a hardware issue. (though its not the screen - when powered down the purple line is gone - so its pixel based).

I turned the system off last night, hoping maybe it was an overheating issue. Turned it back on this morning. Line is still there.

The rest of the screen works fine, including pen-sensitivity. Just wondering if there is a cheap fix to this issue?

The fans in the monitor appear to work. They go full blast for a second during power on and then go to a low speed. I could only tell this because I tried air dusting it while it was on and off and heard the fans resist the air blasts. I got the dust out, but the fans don't ever seem to speed up even after long (2-3+ hrs) use. Wacom wouldn't tell me how they control fan speed apart from "an internal component" so I'm reaching out for any tips/info here.

Power cycled, factory reset, unplugged and held power button to discharge static, only thing that's helped has been keeping it at the minimum usable brightness and it's still running warm. So what should I do? Consider strapping on more fans with zip ties?

⟐ Commented May 01, 2018 at 23:08 MST

I'm interested in purchasing this Wacom Cintiq 24hd from someone off ebay.

The the problem is that there seems to be a deadspot about an inch to the right of the display which causes the calibration to be off.

I wanted to know if this could be fixed?

I seen a video for another Wacom screen where they opened the unit and cleaned the ribbon connectors to the screen and it cleared the problem. is there a fix or should I get used to the spot