⟐ Commented December 13, 2025 at 16:53 MST

I bought the springs and struts and have some challenges inserting the strut into the strut housing steps, related to diameters.

When I remove the strut I looked down into the strut housing and I see an "insert ring". Which reduces the diameter of the housing so I can't get the new strut down in it. (see images).

The original strut diameter is 1.56". The strut housing diameter is 1.59".  0.03" clearance, perfect fit.

All the struts I've purchased are ~1.68-1.71" inches in diameter.  Too big to slide inside the 1.59", not even close.

However if the " insert ring" was removed, the inner diameter goes from 1.59" to 1.72".

With an inner diameter of 1.72"  any of the  new struts, would most likely fit in.

Question:

1) Does this insert need to be removed? if so What's the recommended way of removing it?

2) If this "insert ring" remains what is a recommended strut company to purchase the strut?  I've bought three different ones KYB, Sachs (Boge),  and one from AutoZone which I don't recall name brand.

At this point I think it would be easier to buy the entire fully loaded strut assembly for the left and right.

Do you'll sell the fully loaded strut assembly left and right for the 1986 245 Volvo?

Regards,

Brian

A most annoying situation. (PS: I tried the standard resetting prosedure without success).

All the other functions work as they should on ignition switch position 1.

I will really appreciate some feedback from anyone with a similar prob that has been resolved

I AM WONDERING IF THE CAN-BUS MAY BE A PROBLEM OR THAT A PARTICULAR MCASE FUSE IS NOT RESETTING. (PS: I CAN ALSO NOT FINDIN THE USER MANUAL OR THE IN] WHERE AND WHICH FUSES PROTECT THE POWER WINDOWS. NOR CAN I FIND A WIRING OR EVEN A BLOCK DIAGRAM SHOWING THE RELATION BETWEEN IGNITION SWITCH POSITION 1  AND THE POWER WINDOWS. IT IS VERY STRANGE THAT EVERY OTHER ITEM FUNCTIONS AS IT SHOULD ON IGNITION SWITCH POSITION 1 EXCEPT THE WINDOWS - WHICH FUNCTIONS ON IGNITION SWITCH POSITION 2 AND WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. OUGHT A DIAGNOSTIC TEST (WHICH THE MECHANICS SAY THEY PERFORMED) NOT INDICATE THE FAULT ? I WAS GIVEN TO UNDERSTAND THAT A SW UPGRADE MIGHT HAVE BEEN THE CAUSE BUT NO SUCH UPGRADE WAS PERFORMED. MY QUESTION REMAINS: COULD MESSING AROUND WITH THE TWO BATTERIES (DISCONNECTING AND RE-CONNECTING) CAUSE SUCH A FAULT ? AND WHERE ARE THOSE FUSES ? AND WHY IS A 'TRACABLE' PROBLEM SUCH AS THIS IN A SOPHISTICATED CAR  BE SO DIFFICULT TO TRACE ? THIS DOES NOT SEEM TO BE AN ISOLATED PROBLEM SO IT OUGHT TO HAVE A SOLUTION.|new_window=true]

⟐ Edited by author February 23, 2024 at 12:28 MST