⟐ Answered December 22, 2023 at 1:52 MST

Who can help me.?

⟐ Commented June 05, 2017 at 5:45 MST

⟐ Commented February 11, 2017 at 5:37 MST

I realized my car battery was the issue. It was flatlined.

Left headlight was staying on even with key out.

So that seems to be the main issue.

I was able to get the key fob out after jumping the car.

So just trying to find a solution now for the headlight issue.

May disconnect headlight for now so it doesn't continue to drain battery.

⟐ Answered September 29, 2022 at 11:26 MST

⟐ Answered December 23, 2019 at 7:01 MST

⟐ Answered May 24, 2018 at 14:40 MST

Does anyone have answers or ideas?

⟐ Commented January 16, 2026 at 23:09 MST

⟐ Answered October 01, 2023 at 12:37 MST

I suppose this was seen by VW as a convenient way to allow smokers to light up, and run accessories without needing the to get in and turn the key. The life of today's active geek with lot's of portable electronics, GPS, etc. This is not the most desirable configuration.

I'd like to figure out how it would be possible to convert any one of the four outlets to be switched to the ignition key. Any tips, hints, or better yet specific instructions would be most appreciatd.

⟐ Edited November 05, 2010 at 10:35 MST

⟐ Answered November 15, 2023 at 23:43 MST

⟐ Answered November 12, 2021 at 15:21 MST

including how much oil i need and how to change the oil filter.

⟐ Commented March 14, 2016 at 9:38 MST

Every few days it will not start. Cranks but no start. EPC and CHECK ENGINE lights are on and there is a strong smell of gas. At this point it will not start for from several hours to several days. Then it will start again and run fine, again for a few days.

When not starting the VAG scanner only gives a link error. When it is in a period when it will start and run the VAG scanner connects and works but gives no error codes.

I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor (also called the ESS engine speed sensor) and the ECM. I am a pretty skilled 65 year old mechanic and a retired computer tech so I pretty well understand auto mechanics and electronics issues and can follow any help given. But this thing has me stumped. Being intermittent I suspect it may be as simple as a flakey ground in some circuit. Odd troubleshooting steps seem to trigger it to be able to start again. Sometimes if I disconnect and reconnect the ECM it will then start. Sometimes just plugging in the VAG scanner will get it to start.

Any help would be appreciated. Getting about ready to sell the car if I cant resolve the issue but also I don't want to dump the problem on the next owner.

Thanks

⟐ Commented November 17, 2020 at 11:15 MST

⟐ Answer accepted October 19, 2020 at 16:36 MST

⟐ Answered August 27, 2018 at 20:41 MST

⟐ Commented July 13, 2018 at 7:54 MST

Hi guys! I have an error light in watch but the led its working. I put on tester this car and i have many errors such like tire pressure, data bus can, etc. So.. someone tell me, maybe its water on connectors on main computer and i need to clean it. But i dont know where is! Can you help me? Thanks , have a nice day guys

I bought a 2003 VW Passat a few months ago and the A/C isn’t working. Seller said it was a recharge issue due to a slow leak, but the recharge kit I bought doesn’t seem to be the solution. So… known facts thus far:

• The car has the Climatronic (fancy) system not the Climatic system (this is my first car with power anything, and thus far it’s mostly just been a PITA).
• As near as I can tell, the fuses and relays are okay (most schematics I was able to locate are for the Climatic system though).
• The pressure on the LP port reads approximately 30 psi (207 kPa), which is within the ‘green’ area on the refill gauge.
• The pressure never goes up or down when the refill system is attached, regardless of length of time or whether or not the engine is rev’d.
• The secondary radiator fan comes on when the A/C is activated.
• The little lever arm, under the passenger side glovebox, moves appropriately when the A/C is activated.
• The fan operates at varying speeds appropriately, but the system only blows hot air and outside temperature air (which right now is hot).
• The HP side line gets cold when the A/C is on, at least between the firewall (barrier to vehicle interior) and a bulkhead that the line passes through.
• There is a slight hiss from the HP line near where the line passes through the bulkhead, but does not sound significant enough to be preventing the system from working.
• I depressed the valve pins, briefly, on both the LP/HP side lines to make sure they weren’t stuck (probably would not have done if I’d thought it through a little better beforehand)

I have not been able to arrange a safe way to block the car up, remove the underside pan, and make sure the compressor is activating yet. Anyone have any thoughts? Money is kind of tight right now so if I can avoid a mechanic I’d like to, but if I can’t I’d like to at least avoid a diagnostic fee…

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on things to look at/for? Thanks.

Eric

⟐ Commented December 19, 2017 at 12:50 MST