Thanks

Lawrence

⟐ Commented May 13, 2022 at 19:27 MST

Is there any diffrent sensor for the radiator other then the cooling engine sensor? and where is located

⟐ Commented March 29, 2023 at 6:03 MST

⟐ Commented August 11, 2024 at 16:38 MST

My left tail light function completely normal. The running lights, blinker, and brake lights all work as they should. However, my right tail light is where the issue starts. Each tail light has two hemispheres to it, both of which go on a dim setting for the running lights, and both which go on bright for brake lights, but only the outer hemisphere blinks for the blinker (two bulbs, same negative terminal). Upon first impression, it will seem that everything is working normal. If I hit the brakes, both the hemispheres light up properly. If I turn on the running lights, then both hemispheres also light up. However, if I leave the lights on for anywhere from 10-40 seconds, or I turn the right blinker on, after a few blinks and or that time, the outer light goes out. I have tried new bulbs in the tail light, switching bulbs, and cleaning connectors. I also do NOT get a bulb out warning when it goes out, however if I unplug the assembly, I do get the bulb out warning. I did think it was maybe a heat issue, so I got out a later thermometer and measured the bases of the inner bulb (which has no issues) and the outer bulb (the one with the problem), and before the outside one went off, the base on the inner bulb would be around 180 deg F, while the base of the other bulb would be around 110 deg F. I don't know if this temperature difference signifies anything, but it might be related.

Is there a board I can look for that might have missed that controls light function? I don't think it's a fuse, because then the light should be out the whole time. The light will come back on when I brake again if the running lights are OFF, but if they are on, I have to turn running lights off then on to get that bulb to briefly come back on. The front blinker also does not flash quicker when that rear bulb is out (so I think the circuit is still complete). I can get a voltmeter to check that the bulb is receiving the correct voltage, but I think it still is. One thing to note, when the bulb goes out, I can hear a high pitched humming noise coming from it.

I tried to do research on this topic, but there seems to be nobody else who has posted an issue like this. I have found other things where the turn signal or outer bulb will go off instantly when brakes are pressed or hazards are turned on, but mine seems to have a delay, like something is building up and tripping.

Any help with this problem would be appreciated. I want to avoid the dealer on this one before they try to replace 100 parts.

Thanks

⟐ Edited December 10, 2023 at 0:18 MST

⟐ Commented April 04, 2026 at 23:29 MST

⟐ Answered December 17, 2024 at 3:41 MST

⟐ Commented June 04, 2024 at 20:15 MST

⟐ Answered July 28, 2023 at 23:57 MST

So recently my rear door handles on either side have fallen off, it looks to be because they were pulled from an odd angle. Anyway the latch that holds in the clip next to the handle has broken.

Just wondering wondering if anyone has any experience repairing this part or if perhaps a mechanic is my only option

⟐ Commented August 11, 2023 at 1:23 MST

⟐ Commented November 30, 2020 at 18:06 MST

⟐ Answered December 05, 2018 at 0:52 MST

⟐ Answered September 03, 2025 at 19:10 MST

I'm going to check fuse box as well. I just put a dry cell AGM battery in and wonder if I possibly overloaded the fuse in doing so

Intermittently the signal lights will run fast like they have burnt out or will just turn on on rear turn signal and instead of flashing it just stays on without flashing.? Any more ideas?

⟐ Answered December 03, 2024 at 8:50 MST

Buti (Pretoria)

⟐ Answered April 11, 2026 at 0:44 MST

The car fires and vibrants with huge black smoke like it's misfiring when raised to 6000 rms without gear engaged.

When the car engaged into gear it moves slogish like it holds back the torque release it and jeck it doesn't really move smart but slogish, I press down the throttle but it doesn't seem to deliver the quantity of fuel that is supposed to be vented into the inlet manifold to allow the car moves smarter and better.

I have a feeling it's a bad carb but I want to understand the components in that Bosch electric carb that is bad because they are 3 major components that makes up the electric carb the single point injector at the top, the electric choke by the left and the black Fibre on the right.

I need more knowledge for better understanding and operation of electric carburetor along side with how it's been controlled and giving signals from ecu.

⟐ Commented June 23, 2024 at 4:20 MST

I mean the p for park when you put into park and it won't start and won't come out of park

⟐ Commented October 05, 2023 at 4:31 MST

⟐ Commented October 10, 2025 at 1:02 MST

⟐ Answered September 23, 2025 at 4:00 MST

⟐ Commented September 22, 2025 at 1:51 MST

⟐ Answered August 23, 2025 at 10:26 MST