⟐ Commented May 25, 2026 at 10:29 MST

⟐ Answered May 25, 2026 at 9:33 MST

I tried to turn it over by hand; no joy. I assumed hydraulic lock, and that didn’t square with a hole in the piston. I pulled the spark plug, and good news! It was filled with gasoline. I turned it over by hand and gasoline poured out of the spark plug port. OK, it’s probably a stuck float, or float valve – or maybe a dissolved float valve seat or seal.

I tore into it today. I’ll have a carb here tomorrow, as well as a couple of plugs and a couple of air filters. It should be an easy install (if they send that ACTUAL carb, not something that’s just similar).

My question is, how to do a decent job of purging the gasoline from the crankcase? I can’t drop the pan – it doesn’t have one. Of course, I’ll change the oil and filter – maybe twice. I suppose I could take a heat gun to the crankcase, warm it up good, then dump the oil, then warm the crankcase some more, add the oil, and just crank it for a while. (I don’t want to actually run it until the oil filter is full and the oil galleys are purged.) Then I‘d run it to do the yard work that needs to be done, and then change the oil while it’s hot.

What would you do if it were yours? What are ‘best practices’? (This is putting me in mind of changing the oil in a car in the ‘50’s, getting the engine hot, adding a quart of kerosene, running it briefly, then dumping the oil.)

To save some of you some time, I’m really only interested in how to get as much of the gasoline out of the lubrication system as reasonably possible.

Thanks in advance!

Paul in tropical Wisconsin

⟐ Answered May 24, 2026 at 13:34 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 23, 2026 at 7:17 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 23, 2026 at 7:35 MST

⟐ Commented May 22, 2026 at 18:56 MST

Symptoms:

- While heating, the error flashes for ~1 second, the temperature display drops a few degrees, then heating resumes. This cycles repeatedly.

- Using firmware 1.5.0 on both Hub and Iron.

- Tip is a 1.5 Bevel.

Troubleshooting already performed:

- Verified tip is fully seated (clicked in, aligned below the surface).

- Cleaned 3.5mm contacts and internal handle springs with IPA.

- Disassembled the iron handle; internal soldering points for the socket are secure and show no signs of failure.

- Measured tip resistance at ~3 ohms at room temperature.

- Tested both front USB-C ports with the original cable (same result).

- Tested with third-party 100W cables (MacBook/IKEA), which resulted in Error #11 (No Data), confirming the hub requires the specific data lines of the original cable.

The intermittent nature suggests a thermal expansion break inside the tip's sensor circuit. Are there any known issues with this behavior or specific tests I can run to verify if it's the tip vs. the iron handle's internal logic?

⟐ Commented May 22, 2026 at 5:54 MST

i need the blade belt too. its a 33" deck

the model # LT145H33HBV Ser#21357219

I need the blade diagram too, please @oldturkey03

⟐ Commented May 18, 2026 at 16:38 MST

⟐ Commented May 17, 2026 at 12:09 MST

⟐ Commented May 17, 2026 at 10:50 MST

⟐ Answer edited May 16, 2026 at 1:15 MST

any idea as to where I may be able to purchase it?

⟐ Answer edited May 15, 2026 at 13:20 MST