⟐ Answered February 10, 2023 at 13:31 MST

⟐ Answer edited June 17, 2023 at 9:35 MST

⟐ Answered March 28, 2017 at 8:02 MST

Right after the warranty ended this subwoofer started to fail, first it started making a noise when turned ON, like a grounding or false contact for a few seconds and then it was silent and working fine but at random moments started to do the same sometimes i had to turn it off because it started to do it loud (always jumping from quiet to loud at random, the noise not the audio, i found it on youtube with the word "rattling sound" but no pops or anything else) after a few weeks this got worse and one day after turning on the Sub it went Off seconds later, the only way to turn it back ON was disconnecting the power cord and plug it in again.

I took the subwoofer to fix on the same place i bought it, they fixed and told me it was the power supply and 8 months later (since last week) im having similar issues but not that bad, this time it does this noise when i turn it ON after being Off a few hours and just for a few seconds and never again.

Since they told me it was the power supply and the place is 2hs away from my home (the fix was expensive too)... i decided to open the %#*@ thing myself and check for a bad capacitor or something since i know how to replace components and since is doing something similar from last time (before the fix) i figure the solution could be the same, well i took a look at the board and i couldn't find anything looking bad (only yellow stuff I believe is glue that came from factory and some brown stuff from the same thing, the heat turned the yellow to brown?), so i decided check on the back of the board soldering marks and replace some of the same components to test and also clean the pcb from the flux they have used.

Looking the components i saw only two capacitors that looked like discolored (from heat maybe?) and decided to replace this two only to test, results:

Both 22uf 50v were replaced with 22uf 63v

Then powered the Sub and voila! the quiet to loud random noise stopped but still does some low noise went i turn it ON from a few hours of having the Sub unplugged (check the video):

https://youtu.be/lvhrqyqhzuA

https://youtu.be/0CSbTVZGDJ8

Now the sound level remains low and last just a few seconds (10-20) and remain on the same sound level, it doesn't go from quiet to very loud at random so i assume im on the right track. After this wall of text (sorry) can you give a hand and tell me which component could be causing this or if i could fix it myself just replacing capacitors? if yes is ok to use capacitor with a little higher V but same uF? Is hard to get the exact same.

Here some pics.

http://imgbox.com/g/sBh24N9I1y

⟐ Commented April 15, 2025 at 13:56 MST

If I'm not mistaken this is the radio I have in right now: https://www.amazon.com/MVH-295BT-Bluetoo...

I see there are 2 additional plugs in the back (red and white) which i think is for an amp. But I do not know how to wire it to this ford factory amp.

⟐ Answer accepted December 16, 2024 at 12:55 MST

⟐ Answered May 15, 2022 at 1:37 MST

⟐ Answered September 09, 2025 at 14:56 MST

⟐ Answered September 09, 2025 at 14:42 MST

⟐ Answered September 09, 2025 at 13:23 MST

⟐ Answered September 09, 2025 at 13:16 MST

⟐ Answered June 06, 2025 at 14:03 MST

⟐ Answered June 06, 2025 at 11:24 MST

Subwoofer model is an Infinity SUB750 connected to a Pioneer Elite EX-500 AV receiver (silver one, not the black one).

EDIT:

Do I have the multimeter on the right setting? And how do I plug the multimeter in properly with these pointy ends?

⟐ Commented February 27, 2024 at 20:33 MST

⟐ Answer accepted March 12, 2020 at 4:31 MST

Just a small 8 inch to fill out the empty space my stock speakers left behind.

I know this isn’t a ground or power issue because it worked for half a day after I installed it, there have been no changes to the head units settings or the wiring since.

How it happened:

I drove my car, with the sub working, turned the car off and didn’t notice anything unusual. A few hours later when I needed to use my car again, I noticed the sub was no longer working. There were no odd noises or inconsistencies upon starting the car, just simply no output. The amp still receives power with a green light that is not dim in the slightest, the red protection light is not lit, and the remote level control knob still receives power as well.

I have tested the ground at 3 separate points on the chassis that aren’t painted, same result, power, but no output. I have checked the fuse on the amp, on the head unit, and the inline fuse near the battery, all are pristine. I have tested different RCAs only to have the same result. I have it mounted to the back of the seat as it is in a 2000 Ford Focus Wagon, I have taken it off the seat and tested it unsecured on the off chance it was grounding with the steel the brackets were screwed in to and somehow affecting anything.

I am very new to this world, and I did have friends who are experienced help with the install and take a look, to no avail. We’re really at a loss.

I really don’t want to have to return this thing. Any ideas would really be appreciated.

⟐ Answered January 21, 2020 at 22:53 MST

⟐ Answered January 21, 2020 at 22:47 MST

Onto my question, is there any way to make this wireless? I am tired of messing with wires and want to somehow make the aux bluetooth. I know there are tons of bluetooth recievers but they are all bluetooth to male aux. Can I just use one of of those then convert it to female aux?

Has anyone done anything like this?

Thank you.

⟐ Answered December 18, 2019 at 21:32 MST

⟐ Answer accepted December 15, 2019 at 14:32 MST

Punched my subwoofer cuz it wasnt working. I think it had blown voice coil. Semi worked then a few days later my stock amplifier from my 08 Mitsubishi lancer gts started smoking from under my seat. I took it out and opened it to find this. Can i take this piece out and fix it with a new one?

⟐ Answer edited September 25, 2018 at 18:21 MST

my 1100.1 failed first, about a week ago. It had been warm in the truck (108 degrees outside), but it wasn't turned up, kept the subs down and the amplifier just started to cut the subs in and out and now there is no power to the amp. Tried replacing all 30w fuses, it flashed on and then died but there were no sparks, no fuses were burnt etc.

The 300.4 failed yesterday, while I was trying to fiddle with the bad amp it popped a fuse, so I replaced the fuse and now both amps have no power, nothing at the fuses, no problem codes or lights etc.

The ground is solid and the positive I tested and has power to it.

⟐ Commented July 26, 2018 at 7:17 MST