I have already replaced:

• Burner base (new OEM)
• Burner head/spreader (new OEM)

The problem remains exactly the same. The flame pattern on top looks mostly normal, but there is still flame burning inside the burner and coming out of the large oval openings below.

The burner cap is seated correctly. The unit is Natural Gas (NG).

Has anyone seen this before on the RGC365 series? Could this be caused by the venturi/mixing tube, orifice holder, incorrect gas velocity, or something else? Any known fixes would be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Edited July 07, 2026 at 20:53 MST

So far, I've tried replacing the temperature sensor that may relate to F2, replaced the control panel and re-seated the stove grate in accordance with F2 E1. It still shows.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram/schematic for this model or know what the cause may be?

⟐ Answer edited July 07, 2026 at 18:01 MST

120Vac power is present on the control board but no light on the front Keypad nor was able to turn on the fan or Light from the keypad.

So, I replaced the Control board by following one;

However, now I am noticing a beeping sound from the board. I disconnected the Fan, Keypad connection & Lamp connections but still no change.

Both the boards look the same.
120Vac input power is present.
What else should I check?

Am I missing any setting or anything?

Experts;
Your recommendations please,

BYW, Anyone has the wiring diagram of the control board?

Thanks

Translation Arabic - English

The oven door won't close properly, and therefore nothing cooks well.

⟐ Commented June 16, 2026 at 17:07 MST

⟐ Commented June 16, 2026 at 17:02 MST

⟐ Answered June 10, 2026 at 8:04 MST

⟐ Answer accepted June 01, 2026 at 4:07 MST

I've changed out the oven temperature sensor with a new one, and its still happening.

At first I thought it was the connection wires- there are two, and because the plastic connectors didn't fit (I stupidly missed the adapter piece in the bottom of the box), I had used wire caps and screwed on the two contact points.

AI (Google Gemini) went on about the wire caps not being true heat compatible wirecaps. So I went back and stripped the wires clean, and connected them with ceramic oven wirecaps, rated for 600'F. Then for good measure, I wrapped the caps in high temperature silicone tape. I then made sure none of the wires behind the oven were touching the back metal panel.

Tried the stove with the back off. IT WORKED.

Tried the top burners, then the stove. IT WORKED.

Put the back panel back on, pushed it back in the corner, and ran the stove one more time

F1, F3, beeping still.

Unplugged, plugged it back in. Ran the stove.

F1, F3, beeping again after it gets up to temperature.

I'm defeated. What in the world could this be? It seems a simple thing but I can't figure it out for anything. Has anyone seen this happen before.

⟐ Commented May 28, 2026 at 1:54 MST

⟐ Edited May 01, 2026 at 21:46 MST

⟐ Answered May 01, 2026 at 0:53 MST

⟐ Commented April 27, 2026 at 17:56 MST

⟐ Edited May 11, 2026 at 15:18 MST

⟐ Marked as duplicate April 21, 2026 at 16:27 MST

⟐ Marked as duplicate April 21, 2026 at 16:27 MST

I have a 20+ year old GE Wall oven.

Model jkp37g0l1wg

The top oven's baking element just stopped working. I tested it and the element has proper resistance so it's not the element.

I'm assuming it's the oven switch because it's not sending power to the element, which brings me to my next question.

I took the panel off and the 2 switches look completely interchangeable...they both have the same wiring and look exactly the same. However, they have 2 different part numbers, WB22X5143 and WB22X5140.

I'd rather have the top oven than the bottom one so it's not a safety issue for the baby running around. Any idea if I can simply swap these switches out (bottom switch to top oven)? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the help

⟐ Commented April 10, 2026 at 1:47 MST

⟐ Answered April 02, 2026 at 22:42 MST

⟐ Commented March 30, 2026 at 8:30 MST