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<title><![CDATA[iFixit - Answers With Device &quot;Steam Game Console&quot;]]></title>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/Steam_Game_Console/Unanswered?rss=yes</link>
<description><![CDATA[Top Questions according to your query. Only showing &quot;Steam Game Console&quot; questions.]]></description>
<language>en-US</language>
<pubDate>Thu, 30 Apr 2026 22:59:49 -0700</pubDate>
<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: Metal Heat Shield Replacement (I believe part # F7A)]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I rescued a first gen Steam Deck from my nephew today. He thought he corrupted the the m.2 when he attempted to install Windows on the thing. In his frustration, he just threw everything away; screws, nvme, and the heatshield. You know, like a moron.</p>

<p>I found the m.2 easily of course, and shield part I need on eBay. Naturally it's out of stock. I then found it on a very sketchy looking website (egamephone) .</p>

<p>Does anyone have a trustworthy line on this part?</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/952399/Metal+Heat+Shield+Replacement+(I+believe+part+%23+F7A)</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/952399</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 27 Apr 2026 21:41:57 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: I ripped off a resistor on accident back of motheboard by micro sd slo]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I was cleaning around the perimeter of the motherboard and accidentally knocked off a resistor last one at the very bottom on the back south left of</p>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/aDvHlSQJVvFoLsvH.standard" width="110" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/aDvHlSQJVvFoLsvH.full&quot;, '', 'width=1080,height=2220')" /></div>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/GvrQVlWMKSBUqJpt.standard" width="154" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/GvrQVlWMKSBUqJpt.full&quot;, '', 'width=1043,height=1529')" /></div>

<p>the sd card slot what is it? rev f lcd model.</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/951350/I+ripped+off+a+resistor+on+accident+back+of+motheboard+by+micro+sd+slo</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/951350</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 20 Apr 2026 21:45:12 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: Will the SSD shield be available for sale here?]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I wonder if the shield over the SSD that you have to remove before you do anything can be sold here and I'm also wondering why it's currently not. Either version but specifically the newer one.</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950722/Will+the+SSD+shield+be+available+for+sale+here</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950722</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 14:22:59 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: What tape can I use as a replacement for the silver heat shield?]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>When I was trying to fix my R1 button I thought the shield screw was underneath that tape and I peeled it off. I managed to get it back on but it wasn't really that sticky so I'm wondering what type of tape would work with it. I've seen some suggest kapton tape or graphite tape but In general I want it to remain black</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950721/What+tape+can+I+use+as+a+replacement+for+the+silver+heat+shield</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/950721</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 16 Apr 2026 14:12:08 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: Left Speaker: No audio below 50% volume]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I only recently noticed my SD has no audio from the left speaker when the volume (general or just for the left speaker channel) is below 50%. It gets really spotty between 50 and 59% (i.e. it cuts off a lot) but works normally from 60% upwards which is too loud for me.</p>

<p>I've checked the audio in-game, on Steam (Gaming mode), and on Desktop mode. The issue is universal. Bluetooth and 3.5mm hack are unaffected. Speaker channel volumes are equal.</p>

<p>I haven't seen anyone else with this same specific issue though I know audio issues with the SD seem to be rampant. I've tried some simple fixes including the Factory reset which did not help.</p>

<p>Anyone have any ideas?</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/947367/Left+Speaker:+No+audio+below+50%25+volume</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/947367</guid>
<pubDate>Sun, 29 Mar 2026 07:40:53 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: My motherboard got fried. Can this be replaced?]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>This circled part on my motherboard is what and could it be bought and replaced?</p>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/AeIyErDKkRXPc1SN.standard" width="169" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/AeIyErDKkRXPc1SN.huge&quot;, '', 'width=901,height=1200')" /></div>

<p>⟐ Commented March 12, 2026 at 10:01 MST</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/944585/My+motherboard+got+fried.+Can+this+be+replaced</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/944585</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2026 10:01:17 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: Steam deck lcd fails to start.]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>What does power led blinking 3 times at power up with no power supply connected mean? The led is white not green.</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/944048/Steam+deck+lcd+fails+to+start.</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/944048</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 09 Mar 2026 11:14:56 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: Replaced left trackpad but it's not recognized whatsoever]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I procured an authentic Steam Deck OLED left trackpad, and after I installed it, my Steam Deck OLED failed to recognize it, whatsoever. I double checked all my connections, and checked for any damage to the trackpad, but everything was secure and without damage. The QR code on the back of my old trackpad read: SECN43700B84 and the new trackpad read: SWYFBF7G0030102345257701. They obviously don't follow the same formatting scheme so I'm wondering if they are from different generations. Any insight or guidance on the matter would be greatly appreciated since there is little to no documentation regarding this issue. Thank you to whomever tries to help me with this.</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/940992/Replaced+left+trackpad+but+it&#039;s+not+recognized+whatsoever</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/940992</guid>
<pubDate>Mon, 16 Feb 2026 18:42:03 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: My right pad to use my mouse on the steamdeck wont move its like its n]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>My mouse pad won't pop up for me to use it how do I get it to where it pops up and I can use my mouse again on my deck</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/938614/My+right+pad+to+use+my+mouse+on+the+steamdeck+wont+move+its+like+its+n</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/938614</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 31 Jan 2026 11:12:43 -0700</pubDate>
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<item>
<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: This isn't a question as much as a lesson.]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Recently on the web i have seen many multiple person bragging on about how they fixed their loose bumpers by dressing up the button extension that contacts the extremely delicate switch, with a paper clip or staple or piece of paper(why paper? it'll just drift away, away.. away... .... away..... .... ... .away).</p>

<p>DO NOT DO THIS!</p>

<p>You loose your switch then be hung out to dry because there are no boards on the planet for replacement. That piece of METAL will crush that sensor when ever you are not paying attention or someone else picks up your deck and crushes that LB for either the killing blow or having a temper tantrum.</p>

<p>What you WANT to do is balance that bumper back into its floating neutral position by changing the spring. Yeah. the whole bumper is a floater, when your spring is tired (worn out, no oomph in the return) you get a dead head bumper. limp and weak. then you get mad crushing it, and then it stops clicking. and to get the clicking back, lets put metal over tiny portion of rubber and steal. no.</p>

<p>Change the spring. change the spring, change the spring. But, where do i get a spring? Duuh... any kind of clicking pen.</p>

<p>WAIT this is important. They are not you manufacture spec bumper springs. therefore, the onus is on you to correctly install the <strong><ins>modified spring</ins></strong> at a <strong><ins>correct compression and length and diameter</ins></strong>. And make sure the spring is a compression spring not an expansion spring. Just, ... compression. &lt;--- squishy.</p>

<p>if you have the finger strength of a 50 year old martial arts veteran and the skin durability of a rhino, like me (i got my strength s another way), you can pretty much craft a good one with your fingers and not need gloves, band aids, eye protection, first aider on site, mom and/ or dad watching, At least wear eye protection PLEASE. a spring will cull your eyeball before you blink leaving you stunned,  then panicking, then screaming, then terrors. PPE Personal Protective Equipment learn it and us it. Not a joke.</p>

<p>DO IT NOW! PPE.</p>

<p>So, you've rolled out a spring, with some stretching and twisting. good. Your reference for a good tension is, you guessed it, the opposite side of your device.</p>

<p>The length of your spring should be... not the same as the original. Because it's not an original, i recommend (if you are going to attempt this) starting with your hand made deformity longer than what is needed and clip .5 to 1 spiral at a time. There will be a point where your like this is ridiculous, and you cut more.... and now your spring is no good because it either too short or hasn't the tension you desire. So, 0.5 (ONE HALF, 1/2) to 1 (ONE, WHOLE Measure) SPIRAL at a time. For your sanity and bleeding finger tips cannot do another spring to save their lives.</p>

<p>Dollar  Store get a cart fill it with different pens. Maybe you'll get lucky and China has made a pen just for you! I didn't find mine yet, but I'm close.</p>

<p>Here's my question.</p>

<p>When has it ever been a good idea to create higher force ratings in a components spring assembly where the ratings of force are lower than lifting 175ml of fluid?</p>

<p>Never. that's the answer.</p>

<p>CHEERS! this works, well it did for me. Did the same for a trigger to.</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/935158/This+isn&#039;t+a+question+as+much+as+a+lesson.</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/935158</guid>
<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jan 2026 23:14:25 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: Won’t boot unless battery disconnected from motherboard.]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I’ve had Steam Deck OLED limited edition since launch. A month ago I let the battery drain while in sleep mode but somehow was able to shake it back to life. Same exact thing just happened to me a month later but I can’t revive the deck now. If I plug the deck in with original PSU I just get a solid white light. No backlight, no chimes or sounds, no haptics, no fan spinning. After trying every bios load, firmware reset, etc commands with no luck. I took apart my steam deck and disconnected battery from motherboard. Upon doing so and plugging it into power the deck auto boots and loads normally. I can enter bios, play games, etc. I was going to attempt to try and replace the battery or send it in to Value at this point. Didn’t know if anyone had any luck or knew specifically what is going on with my steam deck and if it’s even worth trying to replace battery first? I’d assume even if the battery was dead it should still load/bypass it with PSU connected. I haven’t modded my deck nor messed with any bios settings etc. Pretty standard user, play with it maybe 2 hours a day. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.</p>

<p>⟐ Commented December 24, 2025 at 0:04 MST</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/932084/Won%E2%80%99t+boot+unless+battery+disconnected+from+motherboard.</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/932084</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 24 Dec 2025 00:04:57 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: Display cable difference between models?]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I recently replace the screen of my 256 GB LCD steamdeck with the 512 GB version with etched glass, in the description its saying I have to use the display cable the replacement screen came with(didn't see this until i put it back together) but its working with the original display cable.<br /><br />What is the difference between to two display cables? will I take a performance hit for not using the replacement cable?</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/931114/Display+cable+difference+between+models</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/931114</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 16 Dec 2025 19:49:58 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: F7AA (LCD REfresh) microphone/audio/ambient light FPC]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I damaged the ribbon while modding my device (hall effect sticks, custom shell, DeckHD screen). It &quot;works&quot;, but I just can leave mics, audio jack/buttons and ambient light crippled like this... <br /><br />Ive looked everywhere on the internet, I have contacted valve (no help), Ive contacted multiple ebay and aliexpress, Ive tried to contact kasynparts (no answer) but all I find is the F7A (OG) version or the OLED version.<br /><br />I have attempted to fix the FPC, but trying to solder only caused to melt and damage further... <br /><br />Im desperate at this point, Im even thinking of shelving my Deck purely due to OCD reasons... <br /><br />Any ideas???</p>

<p>⟐ Commented December 16, 2025 at 14:11 MST</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/910569/F7AA+(LCD+REfresh)+microphone-audio-ambient+light+FPC</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/910569</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 16 Dec 2025 14:11:51 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: left stick clicking in to the right more than the right stick is.]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I don't know if this video is expressing properly what I'm trying to say. Basically when I push the left stick to the right it sort of &quot;clicks&quot; in to the right side of the housing and goes down more than the right stick does. You can kinda of see it in the video. My prior steam deck had this issue so I got it sent in for repair. When I got it back it felt new again and wasn't clicking in so much. But after maybe a month or so it was doing it again.</p>

<p>Does anyone else's steam deck do this? is it a raise for concern? I'm just worried it might be a sign of damage or something.<br /><br /><a href="https://youtube.com/shorts/3ThRNASrJ2Y?si=FjYgYlmnJ0SQeFAB" title="https://youtube.com/shorts/3ThRNASrJ2Y?si=FjYgYlmnJ0SQeFAB">https://youtube.com/shorts/3ThRNASrJ2Y?s...</a></p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/930450/left+stick+clicking+in+to+the+right+more+than+the+right+stick+is.</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/930450</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 13 Dec 2025 02:21:25 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: Issues with phantom scrolling when using steam and quick access button]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Hi all,</p>

<p>I've got a steam deck that started having problems a few days ago. When pressing either the steam or quick access (...) button, it will begin scrolling to the right and continue past the end of the scroll (you hear the sound it makes when theres nowhere to scroll to) until the b button is pressed.</p>

<p>The only diagnostic efforts I've made so far is removing both button boards, both touchpads, analog sticks, and all buttons associated. I cleaned the non electrical components with soapy water, and the electrical components with 91% IPA. Shows the same issues after reassembly.</p>

<p>I have not observed any damage to the internals, liquid or otherwise. Thanks in advance for any insights or advice!</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/929947/Issues+with+phantom+scrolling+when+using+steam+and+quick+access+button</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/929947</guid>
<pubDate>Tue, 09 Dec 2025 14:28:43 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: Swapped out buttons but broke black latch on FFC connector]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>The first image is the button ribbon and connector, missing the black latch. The second image shows what the black latch should look like (from the d pad cable side).</p>

<p>When I start up the SteamDeck, the buttons arent recognized and do nothing. I only assume its because the latch thats supposed to be there, isnt.</p>

<p>My question to the SteamDeck gurus are:</p>

<ol><li><strong>Should the buttons still actuate with the cable slid in as showing, or is the black latch integral to making it work? I understand that the latch keeps it firmly in place, but if the buttons arent working, is that instead a sign of other issues?</strong></li><li><strong>Would ordering a new connector and cannabilizing its black latch, fix this problem?</strong></li><li><strong>Has anyone had to do this sort of thing before?</strong></li><li><strong>Do you know exactly what this part is called? I assume ifixit, amazon or aliexpress would have the part needed, just dont want to order the wrong thing.</strong></li><li>***</li></ol>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/GKFKUYERCX5qkAGK.standard" width="282" height="128" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/GKFKUYERCX5qkAGK.full&quot;, '', 'width=1920,height=874')" /></div>

<div class="imageBox imageBox_left"><img src="https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/wPZKs3uMTkqRGyky.standard" width="103" height="225" class="hasMenu hasLarge" alt="Block Image" onclick="window.open(&quot;https:\/\/guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com\/igi\/wPZKs3uMTkqRGyky.full&quot;, '', 'width=425,height=934')" /></div>

<p>***</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/929301/Swapped+out+buttons+but+broke+black+latch+on+FFC+connector</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/929301</guid>
<pubDate>Fri, 05 Dec 2025 14:06:33 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: steam deck blinks 3 times and doesnt power on until connected to power]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I recently opened my deck to change out the thermal paste (nothing really wrong with it just kinda felt like doing it if I'm honest) and at first it kept blinking and wouldn't turn on so I let it charge overnight and it fixed itself, but NOW no matter how long I have the charger connected it doesn't go above 4%, and if the deck is fully shutdown without the charger it just blinks three times until I have the charger connected again. I have been told so many times that the battery connector is loose but I promise you....I PROMISE YOU, it's all the way in. To be clear if it's on and I take the charger off it will stay on but obviously with only 4% battery it won't last long. Any help would be very appreciated!</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/929135/steam+deck+blinks+3+times+and+doesnt+power+on+until+connected+to+power</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/929135</guid>
<pubDate>Thu, 04 Dec 2025 07:19:03 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: Why is there no option to buy Heat shield / motherboard shield on here]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Hello, Ive bought second hand Steamdeck oled 1tb, but the motherboard shield is missing. Cant find it on ebay, nowhere. What can I do?</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/928988/Why+is+there+no+option+to+buy+Heat+shield+-+motherboard+shield+on+here</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/928988</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 03 Dec 2025 06:13:38 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck: Buttons on steamdeck are falling off]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>Hello friends, I've encountered a problem with the seback. The joystick buttons periodically fall off. I've replaced the main joystick board, then replaced the ribbon cable, but nothing seems to work. I can't find the main board to understand which chip is responsible for the controller, as I suspect that it's overheating and causing the joysticks to fall off on the motherboard. Please help me find this issue.</p>

<p>⟐ Edited November 22, 2025 at 22:41 MST</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/927414/Buttons+on+steamdeck+are+falling+off</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/927414</guid>
<pubDate>Sat, 22 Nov 2025 22:41:35 -0700</pubDate>
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<title><![CDATA[Steam Deck OLED: Left click button (L3) doesn’t work after replacement]]></title>
<description><![CDATA[<p>I ordered a left thumbstick because on my old was the left click button (L3) didn’t worked. It was clicking fine, physically, but on the system it didn’t register as clicked, both in game and on the controller test option in the settings.</p>

<p>So after I changed the left thumbstick, it is same as before, the click button doesn’t work.</p>

<p>Any suggestions on what that might be?</p>

<p>Many thanks!</p>]]></description>
<link>https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/926870/Left+click+button+(L3)+doesn%E2%80%99t+work+after+replacement</link>
<guid isPermaLink="false" >https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/926870</guid>
<pubDate>Wed, 19 Nov 2025 04:15:22 -0700</pubDate>
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