⟐ Commented February 21, 2026 at 10:55 MST

I had made it work with WinXP but after a re-installation of WinXP, and re-install the card (with the same drivers in the same PC), i have this problem :

I have install the drivers, and the card shows in the Device Manager and is enabled in the Mixer but it refused to play audio. It is strange because the peak meter on the Mixer application is moving, which indicates things should be working...

I am trying to make it work now and for 1,5 month with no luck. I have installed all the Windows OS : Win95, Win98, Win2000, WinMe, WinXP, WinVista (with drivers i found on web), but the card do not have sound, in all of these OS''s.

I also gave the card to a technician to examine it if there is a bad circuit, but he told me that the card seems to be OK but he is not 100% sure, and he do not have the time to examine it more closely, because he do these only for expensive cards. When i told him the this card cost, (back in 1999) 700$, he did not believe me.

Something tells me that there is something wrong in the card.

Is there a way to examine it, on board or off board to diagnose if there is something which became bad (a capacitor, a resistor or something else, like the output jacks) ?

Any tip or idea, will help.

Thanks

Audio Card front

Audio Card back

Electrolytic Capacitor no1

Electrolytic Capacitor no2

Tantalum cap

Tantalum caps that beeping continuously are in blue boxes

Dried transparent material around the two leads of one of the two electrolytic cap

Buses passes through near the two legs of the electrolytic capacitor

Burn Examine 1

Burn Examine 2

Unknown elements 1

Destroyed base

Unknown element 2 (the right one is damaged)

new desolder components

Components with no Volt 1

Components with no Volt 2

⟐ Answer edited November 09, 2024 at 5:04 MST

It is a connector that connect the Audio Card with the front Interface. It is a 2x10 Pin Shrouded Header DIN 41651 RM 1.27mm.

I do not have the schematic of the Card and i do not have more information. How must i proceed with the fix ?

The problems I see are here :

The bent track was cut, and went to the 2nd top (from left) pin. Should I scratch all these burns? Should I isolate the lower large area of copper that has been revealed, so that it does not come into contact with anything around as well as with the Track that will pass over? (should I put UV Solder Mask Paint after repair?)

In the same area and on the back side, there is this track break:

And here should I clean up (scratch ) before reuniting the track? This little deformed metal ring was completely gone, but I found it and put it back on. The reverse side of the ring, as shown here (the second of the right, above) :

It doesn't go all the way out. Should I put solder?

And finally in this area :

which is very close to the tantalum capacitor that is burned, as you can see, to reunite the track that was cut with the pad of the voltage regulator, I inserted a zero resistance. A while ago I noticed how the area underneath is wet and is probably the flux. Resistor 000 seems to touch with the terminals of the lower regulator but does not touch (it is in the air) Does uncleaned flux cause a problem?

⟐ Answer deleted September 13, 2021 at 0:47 MST