I'm working on an SCPH-1000 (PU-7 motherboard) that's developed a strange audio issue, and I'm hoping someone here has seen this before.

• No left channel audio from the AV Multi Out.
• If I connect the left and right RCA outputs together, the left channel disappears completely, leaving audio only on the right channel.

What I've already tried so far.

• Replaced all electrolytic capacitors around the AKM DAC.
• Swapped the AKM DAC with a known-good one from another working SCPH-1002( though its a different version AKM4309VM, after changing it still plays audio same issue as before).
• Removed the left-channel muting transistor to rule out a faulty mute circuit.
• Checked continuity from the AV Multi Out pins, and the traces appear to be intact.

While probing pins 15 and 16 of the AKM DAC, I accidentally caused the left channel to start playing while the CD was spinning. The audio was present but slightly distorted. That initially made me suspect the DAC itself, but replacing it made no difference.

At this point, I'm not sure whether I'm dealing with:

• a broken trace or via,
• a fault in the analog output stage,
• an issue elsewhere on the audio path,
• or something I'm completely overlooking.

Unfortunately, I don't have a proper schematic for the PU-7 board, so I'm troubleshooting somewhat blindly.

Has anyone experienced a similar fault or have any suggestions on what I should check next? Any advice, measurements, or likely failure points would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Answered July 13, 2026 at 1:07 MST

Translate:

How to replace the HDMI port
PS5 Slim HDMI port

⟐ Answered July 12, 2026 at 23:54 MST

Translation:

My PS4 isn't reading the disc.
When I insert the disc, a gray disc icon appears on the screen, and it says "Unrecognized Disc."

⟐ Answer edited July 12, 2026 at 23:47 MST

⟐ Answered July 12, 2026 at 23:45 MST

⟐ Answered July 12, 2026 at 23:38 MST

⟐ Answered July 12, 2026 at 23:35 MST

Hello! I found a dirty, roach infested, rust infested, ps4 model CUH-1215A underneath a trash heap. It boots up, works fine, and I started to clean it up. The only problem is these dark spots or burn spots on the ground of the motherboard.

I did research and talked to A.I. saying this could be a burn spot and I need to chip away at the surface and put epoxy? to make the surface even with the rest of the MoBo?

Scraping the MoBo seems unsafe, unsure what I should do here. Any suggestions? preferably from somebody very experienced.

I attached images to show what the spots look like.

⟐ Answer edited July 12, 2026 at 20:01 MST

The original cable has this printed on it:

SUMITOMO-G [RU] AWM 2896 80C VW-1 -F-

I cannot find a ribbon cable that is the exact same. Can I instead buy ++this one for example++.

The image of my broken ribbon cable:

⟐ Answered July 11, 2026 at 7:51 MST

I've already verified the heatsink clamp (Step 19) and the main power supply screws are in place. Does anyone know if there are specific 'hidden' spots for these two screws, or if some models (like the CUH-20xx vs CUH-21xx) have extra holes that should remain empty?

⟐ Commented July 09, 2026 at 9:06 MST

⟐ Answered July 08, 2026 at 1:48 MST

I’m having a problem with my PS5 (original model with disc drive), and I’m hoping someone can help.

The console works fine on the home screen, but when I play certain PS5 games like Spider-Man 2 or sometimes Fortnite, it suddenly shuts off completely after about 5–10 minutes. The screen instantly goes black, the PS5 loses all power (no lights at all), and I can’t turn it back on unless I unplug the power cable and plug it back in.

I already cleaned the fan and removed the dust I could reach, but the problem is still there. The console isn’t in a closed space and has plenty of airflow around it.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Do you think this sounds like a power supply issue, overheating, or something else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered July 07, 2026 at 23:58 MST

I had/have a problem with my old PS2 SCPH-30003 daughterboard. This small board holds a CR2032 battery and the clock chip I believe. I noticed that after a few months, the new CR2032 battery I had put in was totally flat.

So, I tested the board and found out that there was a 100μA current draw with the board completely isolated and disconnected. Supposedly this isn't right.

On my original board, I did notice some kind of corrosion around the negative battery holder terminal, as well as the pins of the clock chip. I didn't see anything like this on the replacement board.

But after testing said replacement board I bought (listed as working), the exact same thing is happening...

The weird thing is, that the original Sony battery from both boards had NOT drained. Both were sitting at around 3.08v.

Does anyone know what might be going on here?

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented July 07, 2026 at 4:44 MST

This evening I tried turning it on because I hadn't tried to in a while and for the first time I noticed a tiny spark close to the fan. There was also a slight smell of burned electronics. Being the DIY guy that I am, I took it apart to find that a SMD capacitor had ruptured.

Does anyone know the rating of the broken capacitor I've highlighted in the photo? The mainboard is the PS4 SAA-001 from the PS4 CUH-1001A model. Your help is highly appreciated.

Hi @honakrisi

Thanks for your response. In my spare time today I managed to get the blown capacitor off the board. It just fell away in pieces as soon as I put a pair of tweezers to it.

Just as you mentioned, I do see some damage to the adjacent capacitors. I will take your advice and have those replaced as well. You also mentioned damage to the pad below the cap. but I'm not at all sure if it's the case here. Please take a look at the pics and let me know what you think.

Does it look repairable?

On a side note, I wish there was a way of knowing the capacitance without having to remove a good one from the board.

Hey @honakrisi

Got you on the pads. I’ll try to get them cleaned up soon and report back on their condition. Thanks a million for going the extra and demonstrating what healthy pads look like. On the board, there are some sections with pads where capacitors would be installed but are left blank. The empty pads are copper color (pictured). Hopefully this is a tiny indication that the pads where the capacitor exploded are still healthy.

⟐ Commented July 06, 2026 at 8:27 MST

⟐ Commented July 06, 2026 at 5:59 MST

⟐ Commented July 06, 2026 at 3:34 MST

Hi

I managed to release the magic smoke out of my ps5. I can't remember exactly what happened since it was a while ago. Anyway it now has the powers on for two seconds with blue light then switches off fault.

I somehow managed to trace the fault to the area circled in red. All stages but the last two are shorted. I checked in diode mode across each of the capacitors, everyone of them except the last two (bottom) are shorted.

My plan was to remove them one by one and see if the short on each of them disappears. I am hoping it's not the smd ic next to the caps because thats beyond my skill set.

Anyway I can't seem to desolder the cap off. I managed to get one side off but the otherside won't budge. I don't want to use hot air because am inexperienced and there are very very tiny smd components on the other side. What am I doing wrong?

What is this area for anyway?

⟐ Commented July 05, 2026 at 17:37 MST

I have tried 2 different hard drives, 3 different usb drives and even downloaded it from different computers and different browsers.

I have tried both usb ports on the console aswell.

Nothing has worked yet.

when I try to reinitialize I get two errors in separate occasions.

SU-30625-6

SU-30645-8

If anybody knows how to fix this please help!

⟐ Commented July 04, 2026 at 17:44 MST

⟐ Answered July 04, 2026 at 17:43 MST

⟐ Answered July 04, 2026 at 4:43 MST

Under Game in the menu, no disk selection is present.

System recovery doesn't restore the previous settings.

⟐ Answered July 03, 2026 at 12:15 MST