⟐ Commented July 17, 2026 at 22:45 MST

I’m in a bit of a tough spot with my PS3 Slim CECH-3004A.

While disassembling it for a thermal paste change, I accidentally pulled the power ribbon cable connector by the head instead of releasing it. This resulted in the entire connector ripping off the motherboard, taking some of the solder pads with it.

From what I can observe, the PCB seems to have a standard 2-layer traces on the surface, and I can’t see any obvious internal layers for these specific traces. I’ve tried to trace them, but I’m struggling to find where they lead to create jumpers.

Could you please help me with the following?

1. Does anyone have a schematic or a high-resolution trace map for the power button connector area (specifically for the Slim model)?
2. Are there any recommended videos or guides on reconstructing lifted pads or where to bridge (jumper) the connections for this specific part?
3. Confirming if I only need to worry about surface traces or if there are via-connections I might have missed.

I have some soldering experience but reconstructing pads is new to me. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Pcb bottom layer

⟐ Edited July 17, 2026 at 15:20 MST

⟐ Commented July 17, 2026 at 5:33 MST

⟐ Commented July 17, 2026 at 5:29 MST

⟐ Commented July 12, 2026 at 23:37 MST

I've already verified the heatsink clamp (Step 19) and the main power supply screws are in place. Does anyone know if there are specific 'hidden' spots for these two screws, or if some models (like the CUH-20xx vs CUH-21xx) have extra holes that should remain empty?

⟐ Commented July 09, 2026 at 9:06 MST

Hi

I managed to release the magic smoke out of my ps5. I can't remember exactly what happened since it was a while ago. Anyway it now has the powers on for two seconds with blue light then switches off fault.

I somehow managed to trace the fault to the area circled in red. All stages but the last two are shorted. I checked in diode mode across each of the capacitors, everyone of them except the last two (bottom) are shorted.

My plan was to remove them one by one and see if the short on each of them disappears. I am hoping it's not the smd ic next to the caps because thats beyond my skill set.

Anyway I can't seem to desolder the cap off. I managed to get one side off but the otherside won't budge. I don't want to use hot air because am inexperienced and there are very very tiny smd components on the other side. What am I doing wrong?

What is this area for anyway?

⟐ Commented July 05, 2026 at 17:37 MST

I put in new tmr sticks in my duelsense v2 controller. I accidentally stripped out the through hole for the middle pin on the right of the board but it came out whole so I took it and pushed it back in the hole. Now after fully soldering in the tmr stick that one is hard stuck to the left when trying to calibrate it.

⟐ Commented June 30, 2026 at 9:15 MST

I just bought a broken second-hand PS5 Digital with the blue light of death. The fan connector was also ripped off from the motherboard, as shown in the photo.

I did a voltage injection test on the board and everything seems to be fine, except for one capacitor that gets hot. I removed it because it seemed shorted, but I can’t find any information about its value. I’ll attach a photo showing where that capacitor was located. Nearby that CIP from the Photo.

Also, regarding the fan connector: is there any chance that the blue light of death could be caused by the ripped fan connector?

The console is a PS5 Digital CFI - 1216B, EDM-030.

If anyone has the schematic or boardview for this model, it would be very helpful.

Sorry for the mess in the photos !

Thank you !

⟐ Edited by author June 27, 2026 at 7:25 MST

⟐ Commented June 26, 2026 at 6:53 MST

⟐ Commented June 21, 2026 at 12:13 MST

⟐ Commented June 10, 2026 at 22:03 MST

⟐ Commented May 31, 2026 at 9:08 MST

⟐ Commented May 28, 2026 at 13:34 MST

Translation:

It lights up, but when I try to use it on my laptop, it doesn't work.

⟐ Commented May 22, 2026 at 1:08 MST

help my joystick aint stick drifting its more like Tokyo drifting, I have attached media of one.

my main controller had trigger issues which was giving a response when I wasn't even using the triggers so I used the same conductive film but switched the hardware of my other controller's pcb board which wasnt turning on and then the trigger issue was resolved but the that Tokyo drift issue came up so I guess the board is the issue but I'm not sure

⟐ Edited April 30, 2026 at 4:47 MST

⟐ Commented April 26, 2026 at 17:03 MST

⟐ Commented April 18, 2026 at 2:58 MST

⟐ Commented April 14, 2026 at 13:02 MST