⟐ Commented August 28, 2026 at 1:21 MST

⟐ Answered August 28, 2026 at 1:19 MST

All went smooth, my controller works, but L3 is behaving very weird:

It clicks itself when I move the left stick on the left, also when I click it, the click input stays on for more than half a second. This half second is also the same time - more or less - the input lasts when I rotate the stick on the left, here's a video of what happens:

Right stick is flawless.

Calibration went well and all, but I really can't find the cause of this, my soldering was not the best but I've checked multiple times the pins and I don't see any bridge:

I'd really like to avoid desolder and resolder everything, are there some specific pins I should check?

⟐ Answered August 28, 2026 at 1:15 MST

next day I wanted to use the controller, it turned off after 1-2 sec, and there could be up to 5 min´s before I could "try" to use it again with the same result. a few times it worked for about 20 sec and I could confirm that the ps5 says the battery on the controller is full, and no charge light comes up when connected to the ps5.

my ps5 at some point got fed up with me trying to reconnect the faulty controller that it wanted to restart and do some kind of repair which took under a sek, and I was not able to read it.

same story with hardware tester usbwired to a pc, it would show up for about a sec. and then disappear. and then randomly show up at different intervals for the same 1 sek.

what would make it do this ?

⟐ Commented August 27, 2026 at 2:41 MST

⟐ Commented August 26, 2026 at 20:36 MST

I have tried a few things, without much luck.

1. I’ve tried unplugging the system and letting it sit before plugging it back in.
2. I’ve tried rebuilding the database.
3. I’ve double-checked the power settings.

I held my ear close to the system during startup/shutdown near where the hard drive is, and the noise doesn’t seem to be originating from there.

The fact that it’s shutting down in sleep mode suggests that perhaps it’s a power supply issue. Has anybody else experienced this?

If it is in fact a power supply issue, how easily can I perform this repair myself?

⟐ Commented August 26, 2026 at 7:24 MST

In my case, it started happening occasionally, and after trying the power button several times it would eventually start normally. Now it happens every time.

I’m also wondering if this could be related to the power supply, overheating, or possibly the motherboard. If anyone has experienced the same symptoms and found a fix, I’d really appreciate some advice before I take it apart or send it for repair.

⟐ Answered August 26, 2026 at 0:18 MST

⟐ Commented August 26, 2026 at 0:13 MST

Can anyone recommend a retailer/manufacturer that can sell me replacements for the DPad and the DPad brace? One would think that places selling the DPad would also understand that the brace behind it is likely to break too...

⟐ Commented August 25, 2026 at 14:53 MST

⟐ Answered August 24, 2026 at 14:39 MST

⟐ Commented August 24, 2026 at 14:14 MST

⟐ Answered August 24, 2026 at 6:12 MST

My PS4 Pro suddenly desided to die on me. It is showing me the blod. Now, I have been doing a lot of testing an experimenting trying to figure out why, but I haven' t really found anything. I'll describe first what it exactly does and then what i tried.

The symptoms:

1. I plug in an HMDI and power cable
2. I press start on the console (my controllers are dead)
3. The PS4 Pro turns on with a blinking blue light and no display out.
4. Extra info: the fan spins up to a slow speed, the disk drive does eject and accept disks and turns them aswell and the HDD does spin to life
5. nothing else happens except it gets very hot to the touch above the psu (but imo this could also be cause the fan is barely spinning)
6. i turned it back of since there was no change for 25 min
7. I tried safe mode by pressing the powerbutton longer from the power off state
8. it first beeps once and turns on with the same blod, while i am still holding the powerbutton
9. after 11 or so seconds it beeps again and it turns back off. so no safe mode possible

The things i already tried:

• safe mode
• replacing the cr2032 coin cel bios battery
• different methodes of safe mode and wired controller combinations
• hdd removal and replacement
• differen power and hdmi cables
• different tv and monitor
• opening everything up for cleaning and checkup
• checking on bad capacitors or resistors, checking fuses
• checking for rust or other fysical problems
• checking for shorts on the power rails of the main motherboard
• checking the output voltages of the psu, which are 11.8V on the 2 big metal pins and 4.8V, 4.6V and a feedback 3.2V one on the little cable connector
• connecting a desktop 300W PSU to the 12V rail of the ps4 while keeping the 4.8 and 4.6v of the og psu

Whatever i try, it keeps doing the same thing. There is no change whats o ever. Also important to know, the blinking blue light stays on forever. It's not like the PS4 Pro turns off after a few seconds or minutes.

I think i have mentioned everything i tried but i might have forgot some, ill say those if i remember when someone commends.

But, my main question is the following. Since none of the results seem to indicate a specific component, like for a short on the 4.8V rail it is often the HDMI encode chip, i have no real next step available to check or test. Is it worthed to mangle the PSU wires to also use the 5V of the Deskop PSU and completely remove the PS4 PSU? Should i try to buy a new PSU for it or does someone think its not enough evidence that the psu is not the culprit? Should i just go for a second hand PS4 Pro? Most PS4 Pro's in my region go for about 180 euro's if i recall correctly, and a new PSU for 65-90 euro's. If someone says it needs to be reflowed I'd probs buy a second hand one cause the reflowing in my region is like 135 euro's without the probably mandetory diagnose of 90 euro's. I can not do a reflow myself, cause i dont have the correct equipment. Any help is appriciated!

PS.: for clarification purposes: yes, i opened the PSU and all other components to test them. Do not worry, I am an electronics engineer, i know what i am doing and am comfortable to do so. It's just that i do not know the PS4 Pro and it symptoms since i mainly design electronics, not repair them. And the repairs i do do are usually Desktop, laptops or household electronics. Also i apologise for  my bad English, its not my native language.

Hello!

This answer is an extension of the comments on the answer of @dan0 .

So, I have some extra questions related to the reflowing. I'll write down my plan followed with the questions.

I am in possession of a flir camera, an hairdryer and an hot-air-soldering station. My plan was to first heat the complete motherboard with the hairdryer to make the complete board equal in temperature. Theni would proceed with the soldering station with the biggest modus (no extra tip) of 1.3 cm wide to make a looping movement over the APU and the RAM in a fluent and as consistent as possible movement. At least, that was my plan. However, there are a few things hope to get information on regarding this:

• How am I supposed to do both the APU and RAM? They seem to be on the oposit sides of the motherboard. If I heat one side, won't the other side also get reflowed in the worst way possible, since it's upside down? Afterall, this is the motherboard with the red circle around what i presume is the RAM:

• How hot does the motherboard need to be with the hairdryer? I can measure this with the flir camera.
• How hot do I need to set the hot air soldering station?
• How fast does the hot air station need to blow: 50%, 20%, 80%, ...?
• Will this hairdryer and hot air station combination work instead of the hot air gun in the PS3 video?
• Does the APU and RAM need to be a certain temp or do I just need to set the hot air station to a certain temp and keep it on the APU for a certain total amount of time? And in either case, what are the amounts?

I like to have a lot of information so I wont break it unnecessarily. There are a lot of questions since I have never done a reflow,

Thanks already for all the info!

⟐ Commented August 23, 2026 at 13:44 MST

I think the reason why it keeps on booting back into Safe mode is because it is crashing within seconds of startup and needs to be switched off and on again.

I don't really know if its worth sending off for repair? Is this even repairable I am struggling to find much on this issue online.

⟐ Commented August 23, 2026 at 13:36 MST

My TV is a Sharp Flat Screen with 1080p. I have my own PS3 that was also bought used and it worked with the TV. I never had any problems with my PS3 and the hdmi, however the one that my mom bought doesnt seem to connect.

Things i have tried:

· Resetting with the power button

· Switched the hdmi cables from my PS3 to the current ps3 my mom bought.

· Unplugging the TV and turning it back on

· Changing the ends of the HDMI cords.

⟐ Answered August 23, 2026 at 12:28 MST

The PS button wasn't working so I did a reset with the little button on the back, then it paired. I'm at the user select screen. Analog stick works but d-pad does nothing (not sure if it should do anything here). X and O (only options given for keypresses on that screen) do not work at all. What could I have messed up here?

⟐ Answered August 22, 2026 at 19:38 MST

⟐ Answered August 22, 2026 at 14:49 MST

⟐ Answered August 22, 2026 at 14:47 MST