List of things I have already tried (in no particular order):

• Restarting Chrome
• Restarting computer
• Resetting Chrome settings
• Clearing cache and cookies
• Re-installing Chrome
• Going incognito
• Disabling/removing extentions
• Using the software removal tool
• Troubleshooting
• Using guest profile

The only thing that has been suggested to me that I have not yet tried is using Chrome Beta and Chrome Canary. I will eventually try them if nothing better can be suggested to me. I would prefer them to be a last resort though, as I do not want to risk any bugs.

As for which version of Windows and Chrome I have, it's Windows 10 and Chrome 60.0.3112.101

⟐ Commented March 24, 2026 at 4:50 MST

I tried restoring but no use. Can't find my icon any where don't even see accounts in settings also.

Please help!

⟐ Commented June 21, 2021 at 12:27 MST

⟐ Commented June 05, 2019 at 19:42 MST

I went ahead and sandwiched the end of the Type K thermocoupler between the ceramic tiles. This way I tried to eliminate variances caused by ambient temperatures as much as possible. It also protects the probe end from to much heat exposure.

Ambient temperature in my shop during this test was 23deg C (73.4deg F). Pretty mild day for South Texas:-)

First heat source I tested is the Goodys 1875watt 3speed hair dryer. It is set to Hot on high speed.

At a distance between the heat source and the thermocoupler of 3/4" (19mm) the maximum temperature it reached was 63deg C (+/- 2deg C by moving the hair dryer in a back-and-forth motion across the thermal probe) (145.4deg F)

Next up is the Dual Temperature 1500Watt heat gun. I used the same setup with the same distance between the heat source and the probe. With a distance of 3/4" (19mm) and the heat gun set to the first speed settings, the maximum temperature reached was 100deg C.(212deg F)

With the heat gun speed at stage 2 the maximum temperature measured was 240deg C.(464deg F) The picture is somewhat deceiving since the angle of the heat gun is increased, so it appears as if it was directly over the thermocoupler. Proper distances have been maintained.

To determine if a hair dryer was sufficient to reflow a board, I picked the solder available in my shop. It is the Sn-Ag-Cu (Tin-Silver-Copper) solder, that is also used by two thirds of Japanese manufacturers for reflow, and has a melting range of 217–220deg C or 422-428deg F . Lead containing solder, like the 63/37 Sn/Pb used principally in electrical/electronic work, has the lowest melting point of all the tin/lead alloys at 183deg C or 361.4deg F. I do recognize that the solidus quantifies the temperature at which melting of a substance begins, but not necessarily the substance is melted completely, is lower than the melting point, but this temperature is usually just a few degrees lower than the melting point

References are here and here

Hopefully this will make a definite case against using a hair dryer for any reflow attempt. It will not reach the temperature required to reflow any logic board. Of course this is just informational for those that wondered about this in the first place. Thanks for a great forum.

⟐ Commented November 11, 2022 at 16:23 MST

Second question, I would like a customer release form. Something to the general effect that they will not hold me liable as long as I take reasonable precautions and do good work. Most of my business revolves around fixing windows issues, but I occasionally also work on hardware. Are there any generic forms out there that I can use or tweak?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Mike

⟐ Commented November 11, 2019 at 17:42 MST

⟐ Answered April 23, 2025 at 15:58 MST

⟐ Commented October 23, 2018 at 6:52 MST

What types of certifications or licenses will I need to obtain to be compliant with all applicable laws?

⟐ Commented September 04, 2024 at 15:32 MST

⟐ Commented August 23, 2023 at 11:57 MST

In our own silo's, we all make tiny discoveries in repair everyday. I'm sure you've learned a lot of things 'the hard way' and I'd love to hear about them.

What little tip or trick have you learned lately that has really made a difference in your approach to repair?

⟐ Answered May 23, 2020 at 19:03 MST

⟐ Commented October 06, 2023 at 16:06 MST

⟐ Commented December 12, 2025 at 21:20 MST

⟐ Commented March 10, 2026 at 6:25 MST

⟐ Answer deleted March 12, 2018 at 21:23 MST

I did the Sierra upgrade on a couple of MacPros 4,1 and it has worked excellently, after I did a firmware update patch to get it to read as a MacPro 5,1, so I am very optimistic on doing it again. At the time I did it last year, it appeared that it couldn't be done on the 2008 MacPro. But, after watching a couple of videos, right now it appears I will not have to do a firmware update.

I'm first going to try the install on a 2008 MacPro, then try it on either a 2008 and/or early 2009 MacBook Pro.

I posted this to see if anyone has done it yet, also because I know we will have question on it, and to see if anyone has attempted it yet and has any advice.

I did my first install of 10.13 last night on a 2012 13" MBP without issue as expected but really have not looks at it yet. I did open a new install of MS Office 2011 which had reports that it was not going to work but so far have seen no issues.

Here's a list of the supported machines:

Here's the official list:

MacBook (late 2009 and later)

iMac (late 2009 and later)

MacBook Air (2010 and later)

MacBook Pro (2010 and later)

Mac Mini (2010 and later)

Mac Pro (2010 and later)

Here's the patch tool by dosdude for High Sierra, Iused his former patch to do the Sierra upgrade. It also tells you how to install it. It is reported to work on theses unsupported machines:

Requirements:

- Early-2008 or newer Mac Pro, iMac, or MacBook Pro (MacPro 3,1 and 4,1, iMac 8,1 and 9,1, MacBook Pro 4,1, 5,1 5,2, 5,3, 5,4, and 5,5)

- Late-2008 or newer MacBook Air or Aluminum Unibody MacBook (MacBookAir 2,1, MacBook 5,1)

- Early-2009 or newer Mac Mini or white MacBook (Macmini 3,1, MacBook 5,2)

- Early-2008 or newer Xserve (Xserve 2,1, Xserve 3,1)

Machines that ARE NOT supported:

- 2006-2007 Mac Pros, iMacs, MacBook Pros, and Mac Minis (MacPro 1,1 and 2,1, iMac 4,1, 5,1, 5,2, 6,1 and 7,1, MacBook Pro 1,1, 2,1, and 3,1, Macmini 1,1 and 2,1)

-- The 2007 iMac 7,1 is compatible if the CPU is upgraded to a Penryn-based Core 2 Duo, such as a T9300.

- 2006-2008 MacBooks (MacBook 1,1, 2,1 3,1 and 4,1)

- 2008 MacBook Air (MacBookAir 1,1)

http://dosdude1.com/highsierra/

UPDATE 10/5/17

Here's how I initially got my Early 2009 Mac Pro to take 10.2 Sierra:

EFI and Firmware update from 4,1 to 5,1 for Sierra Upgrade Solved

I have had no issues with this installation for the last year. I just booted this same machine from a High Sierra install on an external drive and it is what I'm using at this moment with no apparent issues. Warning I went to install it on an internal SSD and it says it wants to do a firmware update. Since I already did a hack firmware update, I'm afraid to do this yet until I know more about it.

⟐ Commented February 27, 2019 at 7:31 MST

It's hard even to get my "question" here, already when typing my "device" and "title" - iFixit "Ask a Question" already puts in suggestions to solve my question as I type...

Just gotten your lovely "Thank you" mail from iFixit, I wanna give something back!

It started some years ago, my old Travelmate 6592G started to get - well -old, and at the about that time my best friend of mine got cancer, got operated, got well, and suddenly - he was in need of a PC who could handle all the internet, customers and what not in his shop - the world turns, and so does everything else... "Borrow my old laptop old friend, it'll do the work for you mate".

Well, it did, and he still does, however, "Listen old friend, your battery is kinda worn, so I¨ll get you a new one before you get your laptop back, and its overheating kinda fast...".

The battery we quickly fixed with help from the internet, and he got me a new one, however - the overheating persisted, and this is where iFixit comes to the rescue!

The two of us both being technicians, we found iFixit, found the instructions on how to take apart my old Travelmate, clean it for dust all the right places, apply new heat transferring paste, put it all together again, and start it up again monitoring the temperatures with the small programme I installed, we all had a happy Saturday afternoon, my friend, me and my son.

After that of course came my daughters broken iPhone (my sons twin), my good colleagues iPhone, and - well - whats next...

All in all, couldn't be what I am without you lovely iFixit¨s!

Thank you, and hope to give you all back soon....and a happy christmas.

Jens.

⟐ Reopened December 11, 2017 at 6:16 MST

⟐ Commented July 29, 2019 at 17:58 MST

⟐ Answered January 13, 2025 at 0:17 MST

⟐ Answered August 11, 2024 at 2:16 MST

I'm trying very hard with side and odd jobs to save enough money to purchase a couple machines like a LCD seperator and bubble remover to make myself profitable in the repair business. What all do I need to make sure it's done 100% to ifixit standards and is there any were you recommend to buy used machines for a guy that cannot get loan because of mistakes I made when I was younger

⟐ Commented December 05, 2019 at 21:11 MST