⟐ Answered July 09, 2026 at 2:38 MST

⟐ Commented July 01, 2026 at 18:06 MST

⟐ Answered June 28, 2026 at 17:33 MST

It plays music asks to toggle the sound with the Fire Remote. This is where it gets tricky, because the remote I have isn’t the one that comes on screen. My remote doesn’t have volume control buttons.

Advanced setup just asks what IR setup for my TV I have. Once I answer that, it immediately goes back to this screen. If I try to go back, it takes me back to my login screen. I can’t progress until I toggle the sound with my remote, which I can’t.

This remote has been working perfectly with the TV ever since it was first set up last year and was working fine as well prior to Amazon Fire just randomly resetting. The remote worked (and still does) perfectly with the entire set up process before this mark. I can’t go back, I can’t skip it, the home button won’t work.

Scoured online for this problem and haven’t seen anyone else with this issue. Amazon Fire keeps trying to factory reset for some reason as well. I have no idea how to make it past this and would be baffled if I needed to buy a different remote entirely out of the blue for no reason like this.

⟐ Answered June 19, 2026 at 7:26 MST

⟐ Answered June 19, 2026 at 7:02 MST

I sideloaded an android app "share it" it on firestick but when I tried to send the data from my phone to fire stick, the screen just froze. I had to restart the TV but by then fire stick had lost the network access. Fire Tv -Stick is dispaying "No network access" message. Earlier it was connected to two modems but now its not detecting either of them. Somehow remote also stopped working. I tried two diffrent physical remotes (with fresh batteries) but now I can't navigate inside it by any means.

I don't know the reason but I guess the ‘share it’ app tried to create a shared hotspot network to allow data transfer but maybe fire stick is not configured for it.

Is there any method to factory reset the device without turning it on ?

⟐ Commented June 14, 2026 at 14:50 MST

It displays the Apple logo that you'd normally see during the boot process. After the light on the front of the device blinks 9 times, it seems to immediately reboot itself.

On just one occasion since this began, iTunes was able to see the Apple TV temporarily when I had connected it with a USB-C cable (with the intent to be to do a software restore on it, if possible).

I have tried two power cables (borrowed from another working Apple TV), two HDMI cables (not perceived to be an issue since we can see the boot logo on screen), different power outlets, and even different televisions.

There are articles on holding the TV and Menu buttons on the remote for 10 seconds to force it to restart. The Apple TV does seem to react to the remove (the light on the front will flash in response to it), but this did not permit a full boot.

Thoughts on what hardware components inside of this would be worth swapping out to get this working again?

⟐ Commented June 10, 2026 at 12:12 MST

Thanks but I did. Tried different HDMI as well as the three RCA jacks and also 2 different tv’s. I also reset the Roku to factory settings and even then, it shut down while loading all the channels. As I was re-setting it up it accepted the wireless name/password and started to load 1 of 88 channels but shut down while the channels were loading. I unplugged and plugged back in and it started loading 1 of 52 channels then shut down again midstream. Re-booted again and loading 1 of 33… shut down a couple more times but finally completed. After ALL that back to the same thing. after 2 to 5 minutes of watching whatever it shuts down.

⟐ Commented June 08, 2026 at 18:42 MST

.

Is there a script, setting, configuration line et that can be set to ignore the second click of the remote OK (or select) button in a given interval?

⟐ Answered June 05, 2026 at 14:54 MST

Is there any way to do a factory reset or fix this without having an actual remote?

⟐ Answered June 04, 2026 at 1:38 MST

The general sequence of failure is as follows: The sound will drop out while the picture continues. The picture will then slow down and sometimes freeze before the screen goes blank (sometimes leaving the closed captioning running if I have it on for several seconds until it disappears). Picture and sound will eventually pick up for no more than a few seconds before stopping again. Then the same short segment of audio or video will repeat often interspersed with a moment of black screen. It may skip ahead to catch up with the feed, but may not regain stable signal without intervention.

In the meantime, changing channels, opening the guide, etc. with the remote lags terribly. Sometimes turning everything off with the remote or changing channels will help, but doing so brings up a status bar, suggesting that it is buffering. The only measure that works consistently is resetting the device by disconnecting and reconnecting the power. However, it will take a few minutes (again, signal seems to be buffer). It seems that each time I resent, i get less uninterrupted time to watch television until I have to reset again. I usually give up within a couple of hours.

The setup: The box is connected to a standard, dumb ~15 year old Toshiba LCD television. I displays what you plug into it reliably. I have had similar results using coaxial and HDMI inputs/outputs. I have one female f-type outlet in the room which feed the cable box and a cable modem (which has worked for about 10 years) via a 5-1002MHz digital splitter installed with the previous cable box. I have read that this type of splitter is correct when TV and internet share a cable.

I have spend hours troubleshooting this and have gone through the standard steps recommended by Comcast (reset box, check connectors, check power). Comcast's chat bot says I need to schedule a technician visit, for which I will be charged. For a variety of reasons that is not going to happen. As far as I am concerned, they "upgraded" their system, which broke the service that I was paying them over $100 per month to provide. If they broke it, they can fix it. However, this reminds me of setting up internet using telephone lines years ago when some of the connectors could not transmit the additional data of the new service. If I have to pay for troubleshooting and repair, it could get expensive and not succeed.

I have seen in other forums that other Xfinity users have encountered similar problems. However, I have not seen a solution. If there is something I can do inexpensively myself, such as replacing cables or the splitter, I do not mind trying. However, I live in a condo complex, so there is nothing I can do outside my unit.

Thanks in advance for any solutions.

⟐ Commented May 26, 2026 at 16:55 MST

I’ve already been able to open it up, cleaned with alcohol, but that doesn’t seem to do anything.

Does anyone have tips for other things I could try to get these buttons to work again?

⟐ Commented May 26, 2026 at 0:23 MST

⟐ Commented May 13, 2026 at 0:00 MST

Any ideas on what to do please? My internet is working perfectly on my other devices.

⟐ Commented May 12, 2026 at 16:12 MST

⟐ Answered April 20, 2026 at 6:32 MST

My Apple TV4 is completely dead. No light when the power cord is plugged in or anything. I dismantled the thing so warranty is also gone, but what I saw when I checked the power supply is that it is working perfectly (outputting 12V). However, when the logic board is connected, the power supply goes down to 0V. After measuring the motherboard, I saw that there is a short between the positive and negative terminal of the motherboard.

Does anybody have any idea if this is a common fault, if or how to fix it, and were a spare logic board can perhaps be found?

⟐ Commented March 16, 2026 at 4:16 MST

⟐ Answered March 01, 2026 at 16:30 MST