⟐ Commented January 16, 2026 at 13:49 MST

Thank you in advance.

Renee

⟐ Answered January 13, 2023 at 15:30 MST

⟐ Answer accepted January 22, 2026 at 12:05 MST

⟐ Commented August 13, 2024 at 3:46 MST

⟐ Answered January 12, 2026 at 13:24 MST

⟐ Edited May 02, 2024 at 7:47 MST

⟐ Edited May 02, 2024 at 7:49 MST

I bought the kit from Amazon that included the idler pulley assembly, 4 drum rollers and a belt. Before installing the new parts I did a thorough cleaning even taking the fan disk out and washing it and cleaning all the dust, lint, detritus from inside the case.

I had to remove the rear bulkhead to gain access to the rear roller retaining nuts which meant that I had to take the screw out of the heater assembly bracket (at front) and slide the assembly forward to allow the bulkhead to move forward. I did not disconnect any wires to the heater assembly.

To remove the rear bulkhead I completely removed the top which meant disconnecting the cables to the PCB. I took photos before and made sure all connections were made correctly on reassembly.

On reassembly, the dryer powered on without any errors. The drum rotated and I thought the heater was working but could not be certain. My bride tried to dry a load of clothes. There was no heat. The fact that the unit powered up, turned the drum and seemed to be working correctly leads me to think that those PCB reconnections are OK

Before I order a heater assembly, I thought I should ask what diagnostics I should run to isolate the problem to be sure it is the heater that is broken. I know my way around a multimeter. I have an infrared remote thermometer.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Answered November 06, 2025 at 3:29 MST

⟐ Answered October 08, 2025 at 1:34 MST

⟐ Answered August 26, 2026 at 8:34 MST

I’ve replaced everything in the title and checked continuity on the high limit thermostat plus took readings from the solenoids, which checked out with others readings, and yes, checked to see if the unit is getting gas (even called the company to double check). Still, the ignitor will not even begin to glow. It is a relatively new unit and all the wires seem to be in good shape. So what next?

⟐ Answer accepted January 22, 2026 at 12:09 MST

Started not heating. Opened it up, found the heating element had a break in it, so replaced the heating element. Also cleaned out all lint, and the made sure the airflow to the outside was good and clean.

Second load, it stopped heating. Found the high temp fuse had failed. Replaced that. Tested ok. Put machine back together.

My wife says it worked for a few loads, not sure how many. Then stopped heating. checked the fuse, and it had blown again. Replaced all four pieces (three fuses and themostat). Completely cleaned everything. Even took fan out and cleaned it.

Tested before I put machine back together, ran fine. Element came on, heated, turned off, came back on. Sometime during first load, stopped heating. I havnt checked yet, but I am assuming the same fuse is blown.

What next, the control panel? Sounds like a short in the system or something, maybe I am missing something else?

⟐ Commented January 04, 2026 at 18:48 MST

⟐ Commented April 25, 2025 at 19:06 MST

⟐ Answered November 07, 2024 at 20:37 MST

⟐ Answered September 10, 2024 at 6:15 MST

⟐ Commented March 27, 2024 at 20:06 MST

Now a week later (laundry day) it’s giving the same error code (HE). Well, that was until I attempted to temporarily bypass the thermistor. Now it’s giving the code for the thermistor (TE) and immediately shuts off after running a few seconds.

Is there a way to bypass this thing other than making a loop from one pin to another?

I ohm tested the thermistor and it came out to 6.5k and went down as I put my finger on it. I understand it should be around 10k.

Is this what my problem really is?

⟐ Edited May 02, 2024 at 14:02 MST

⟐ Answer edited August 01, 2022 at 0:42 MST

⟐ Commented August 16, 2026 at 12:27 MST

⟐ Commented April 02, 2026 at 8:04 MST