But then later in the day the left side lit back up. While the right side stayed dark, then the middle also went dark. Left side still good. The right side kind of flickers once in a while. I'm assuming that the backlighting itself doesn't need to be replaced since the left side came back on and the right side still flickers.

I know this is a relatively common issue, but I've never seen anyone say they've had the exact same thing happen as I have. I.e one side being off, then coming back on again eventually while the other 2/3 of the screen go "off" all in one day. Any suggestions?

⟐ Commented May 05, 2026 at 3:42 MST

⟐ Answered May 04, 2026 at 13:39 MST

I have removed the WIFI LAN adapter as well but still the same problem.

⟐ Commented May 03, 2026 at 6:48 MST

⟐ Answered April 28, 2026 at 15:39 MST

⟐ Commented April 28, 2026 at 14:19 MST

https://jumpshare.com/s/A6qGVVngRo23Wflm...

https://jumpshare.com/s/OhOjv4DKOtCy2JNd...

Sometimes everything is ok (on different days I mean).

All TVs have this problem except for one that has it's own radio antenna. The others share a different model old antena. Just wanted to be sure that I should just buy a new antena

• With every board connected (the power board, the two green and the backlight), it bootloops. I can see three little dots lights up on the small green, then backlight goes on and then reboot.
• With the green boards disconnected and just the backlight connected to the power board, i can see the screen flash.
• With the green boards connected and the backlight disconnected, same little three blue dots then reboot.
• With everything disconnected, there is no visual indication on the power board.

So i suppose the problem is with the power board (model BN44-00620A). I can hear a little click on the power board when close to it. Again, if i leave everything unplugged for 3 days, the TV turns on again.
I found this old thread, but i'm not really good with electronics. But trying to learn !

Anyway, i hope it's just a small thing to replace, thank you in advance for any help !

(I also asked on the badcap forum. You can find pictures there)

⟐ Edited by author April 21, 2026 at 0:17 MST

⟐ Commented April 19, 2026 at 10:39 MST

⟐ Answered April 19, 2026 at 10:00 MST

My SAMSUNG LCD LED TV, suddenly stopped showing the picture, while backlight and sound is ok. I checked the voltage with multimeter, it seems I have voltage on all the boards (Power supply board, main board and T-con board ). Where exactly should I check the voltage and where the problem can be?

UPDATE:

I measured the Voltage on T-Con board on several points, it seems that in the inlet (from the main board) I have around 12V but in the outlet (towards panels) Ihave no Voltage.

I have 12 V-0.4 V on some elements on the inlet side,but almost nothing towards the oulet.:

So can we say that T-Con board itself is faulty and should be changed?

⟐ Commented April 17, 2026 at 1:57 MST

i have tried removing each ribbon cable on the T-con board that works each side of tv picture to see if taking either 1 out helps the image improve but removing each 1 individually doesnt have any desired effect, any help please as im not sure if its a new T-con boared i need or possibly something else?

⟐ Commented April 14, 2026 at 4:16 MST

⟐ Commented April 12, 2026 at 2:31 MST

Whenever I push the volume up and down buttons on the remote the television turns off or on after a delay. There is no way to get the volume to turn up. There is no sound.

Do you have any idea how I can fix this or what I need to replace? The television screen works fine.

And just for information purposes - the remote works fine it seems to change the channels so I'm not sure if it is a remote problem or a television problem.

⟐ Answered April 11, 2026 at 18:51 MST

A few days ago I started experiencing Samsung UN75NU800DF rebooting issue and I am hoping someone can help.

This 75" UN75NU800DF is 5 years old and started to reboot itself, like turning on then off with a relay click sound. After some google and youtube I tried some troubleshooting.

I removed the back panel and checked the power board for any irregularity, and the capacitors and solder joins look fine. I then disconnected the ribbon cable between the power and main boards and powered on the tv. Clicking stop and backlight stayed on.

I then tested each pin out for the ribbon cable with a digital meter and the output voltages match to the pinout diagram on the power board (13v but tested to be around 12.8V). At this point I am thinking the power board is working OK.

Next I tried removing each of the two ribbon cables between the main and the LCD boards (labeled 1 & 2 in the photo below) in turn to test if it's LCD problem. First the top cable is removed (the bottom is still connected to the main board) and powered on the TV. The TV turned on, sound is on, remote is working, backlight is on, but no picture. Then I did the same for the bottom ribbon cable while leaving the top cable connected, same thing happened. Finally I disconnected both the ribbon cables and again, sound, backlight, remote are all working but no picture.

Finally, I reconnected everything back to original and sure enough, the TV went back to rebooting and clicking.

My question is what can be the issue? The power board seems to be working, backlight stays on if not connecting to the main board. Can main board be the problem? Or is LCD driver board the issue and I nees to try the tape off method?

Thank you very much.

The connection where the ribbon cables terminate is shown below:

It's showing the area of the incoming power cable connector and first ribbon cable to the LCD board

⟐ Commented April 11, 2026 at 18:27 MST

⟐ Answered April 07, 2026 at 10:13 MST

⟐ Commented April 07, 2026 at 7:32 MST

⟐ Commented April 07, 2026 at 6:47 MST

⟐ Commented April 04, 2026 at 23:15 MST