I have removed all of the screws and go to remove the back and it does not lift off so nice and easy - looks like there is a catch about halfway on both right and left side. Do I force it open?

Okay - so first of all it was not a Macbook Air - it was a Macbook. I took a picture of the writing on the back and was able to zoom in and find the model and EMC number.

Once you get the screws out there are 2 clips - one on each side that are a bit stubborn...but you get them unclipped and you got it.

I also had the wrong battery....so wait for now

Thanks for the feedback

Pat

⟐ Edited January 22, 2026 at 15:54 MST

Is there a fix for this? Not sure what to do next.

Thank you

Paul

⟐ Commented January 20, 2026 at 12:34 MST

I bought this MacBook knowing that it didn't turn on. Now I'm under the hood, the light next to the battery disconnect is lighting up, but still no boot. When I plug it into power without the battery connected, the light comes on, but still nothing. The area around the keyboard warms up like my working MacBook Pro when charging. The MacBook is taking power but is not turning on. I've checked the charge port (no physical damage), all the ribbon cables (also no damage), and still nothing. Could it be the actual power button? Idk what to check next.

⟐ Commented September 26, 2025 at 20:06 MST

1. Is this repairable or worth trying?
2. Will replacing the logic board fix the problem? That's all I can see that was burned out. I was replacing the trackpad, which seems to be ok.

Thanks

James

This is the 8gb/256gb 2017 version.

⟐ Edited by author July 12, 2025 at 12:00 MST

⟐ Answered April 28, 2025 at 21:54 MST

The charger makes the tone when I plug it in and it shows as charging, but I'm getting 0 mA for power in the system report. Sometimes it starts out and goes to 1.3 amps, but then drops off to under 100 milliamps after a couple minutes, but I'm just getting very inconsistent performance. I've tried two separate chargers (OEM 29W and a GaN Anker 30W) and two separate USB-C cables, and those didn't show any difference in performance no matter what combination.

I believe I have reset the SMC by holding shift-ctrl-option-power while the macbook was shut down.

I also did the battery conditioning/training thing after installing the new battery, where I charged it up to 100% and then let it run itself down to 0%.

The USB-C port has been pretty weak for a long time now--cables don't necessarily click in very well, is there a possibility this is a USB-C port issue? That is easily replaced if I need to do it I guess, thankfully it's on a separate board with a ribbon cable.

Thanks for any help!

Here's the shots from coconutBattery, if it helps.

Update: Here's the screenshot from this morning. The laptop had been standby overnight, not plugged into AC power. I shut it down right after this screenshot, closed the lid, and plugged it into AC power.

Here's what happened about 1.5 hours later when I started it back up by opening the lid, and pressing power, while the laptop was still plugged in.

I don't know why the battery would've drained like that while the laptop was shutdown and plugged into power!

⟐ Answer accepted April 02, 2025 at 18:37 MST

1. trackpad not clicking/haptics
2. battery is charging, slowly

Battery:

Day 1, Finished replacement, it was not charging. I cleared the SMC and NVRAM, couple of times, then it seemed okay, turned on, charged battery to 100%, +2 hours, used it a little bit, then unplugged and left MacBook on overnight to discharge battery completely, per instructions to calibrate new battery.

Day 2, MacBook was just dead, dead. No power, nothing on the screen showing needed to plug in. Tried plugging it in again, then reset SMC/NVRAM, still nothing. Opened up the MacBook again, disconnected battery removed the screw, used the U-pic from iFixit, tried reseating all cables, double-checked screws. All okay. Closed it up.

The last thing I tried was a newer MacBook M1 70W charger with a short Thunderbolt 4 cable. Hoping it would really juice it up. Left it for an hour maybe, was still dead, dead, so I left it overnight...

Day 3, Woke up to it 100% charged up! Woo hoo! Clock wasn't set (I couldn't even get to Date/Time in settings), I cleared the SMC and NVRAM, and then I could set the clock, woot!

Now it's working okay... except the trackpad and battery not charging/charging slow.

Battery: Icon shows plugged in, battery not charging. Trying an EHO 100W charger, and ADG 100 W hub/charger, with a USB-C cable with an LCD screen showing charging wattage: it shows 7-11 watts. (it shows 20+W PD, connected to my iPhone 15 Pro Max, iPad Pro M1, and with either of these chargers).

Will try the 70W MacBook charger and Thunderbolt cable again. But wondering if anything sticks out here to anyone?

What is working, sound, screen, USB-C port, keyboard, all good! Anything else I need to make sure is working?

Trackpad is working, but not clicking/haptics not working. In settings, I turned on "tap to click", so I can use it, seems okay. Would like to fix the clicking/haptics.

I shut down, disconnected power, opened the case, double-checked the funky "s" cable from the logic board to the trackpad, it seems fine. Reseated cable in the ZIF connectors, again.

How would I know if it's damaged?

Should I clean the ZIF connectors? Safely... IPA? WD-40 Specialist electrical contact cleaner spray?

Any other macOS settings? Reset SMC/NVRAM, or the like, cables, or things I need to check inside the MacBook?

Any help getting the trackpad clicking, is greatly appreciated.

Also, thoughts on battery charging slowly (7-11 watts)?

Thank you!

Hi @danj Thank you for getting back!

Trackpad is tracking just fine... amazingly, just not clicking. I just checked every bit of the pad, it's tracking all over.

Will try an external trackpad to see if it works.

I do have another MacBook 2017, and the trackpad is very clicky. I noticed that even if I turn on "Silent clicking" on the other MacBook, I can still feel the trackpad clicking, physically. So maybe something got lodged in when I was inside the MacBook. I'll see what I can find.

Here are the settings, in case that's helpful...

Here's the Coconut battery info. Please let me know if you need anything else.

I installed the last version of Coconut Battery, and the current version. And included the battery stats from macOS, if that’s helpful. Thanks again!

⟐ Commented April 01, 2025 at 9:29 MST

I checked with Coconut battery, it showed 2 cycles, and 103% health when I went to bed. Per the iFixit calibration card, I left the MacBook on to drain the battery.

Today, the MacBook battery is indeed dead, but does not seem to charge. I left it plugged in for 4-5 hours, tried a different charger and cord. Using 100W charger, and a couple of different USBC cables. I tried resetting the SMC, PRAM, and NVRAM again, but I don't even get the startup chime.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Answered March 21, 2025 at 16:42 MST

I just got an almost-brand-new MacBook from eBay but I have noticed some odd issues with it. For some reason I can't find Optimized Battery Charging in the Battery Preference. I know that any Mac running macOS Big Sur and later support this feature, so why is it not working on mine?

I do know that a while back I had to replace a battery on a MacBook 2016 (previous generation) and after the replacement the option disappeared. This makes me believe that my Mac has a replacement battery, but according to System Profiler, it is by SMP; which is what most Macs use (or even DP). When I opened up the machine, it looked like an official Apple Battery, but I honestly am not sure how to identify that.

So, if this is something with the battery, how would I fix it? Or if it is something even Firmware or SMC related, how could I fix that?

⟐ Edited by author March 14, 2025 at 5:55 MST

⟐ Answered February 26, 2025 at 6:08 MST

I have reset SMC & PRAM to no avail. Running first aid in disk utility finds nothing. There is only 1 USB-Type-C connector on the side so target mode isn't possible AFAIK. .. When I go to internet recovery it prompts to install Ventura but there no option to select any disk to install it on..... no option for erase in disk utility..... This is what I have tried

Opt+Cmd+R - Disk utility shows only the base system 2.14 GB

Termianl just lists 16 disks no larger than a few KB to 6 MB

Only 1 partition size is 3.22 GB

Sorry for the poor images..... Please leave a comment until we can post a definitive working answer as I found a few posts online and there seems to be a fix for it but for me it didn't work and was unclear on if or how they did it.... I am sure there are many out there who had this same issue and would love to know how to fix this if possible....

I managed to boot externally and in the about this mac (Storage) it only shows the external drive size. Disk utility shows NOTHING internal. Apple diagnostics report no issues found. I cannot run the terminal command system_profiler SPSerialATADataType as command not found.

I guess it is increasingly looking like it had some sudden SSD Failure and the end of the road for this Mac. @jadonlyon & @oldturkey03 if they can shine some light for me.

SSD is dead and the unit shall be returned to the owner to bin sadly.

UPDATE: R7237 Resistor ? 2017 Macbook 12" A1534 NO SSD Repair

⟐ Commented September 19, 2024 at 4:30 MST

I took it into a repair shop and they said the logic board was dead. Another repair shop said the same thing.

I searched online, with my understanding being that the 2015 version of the MacBook 12" was the one that had the most issues and that many of those issues were fixed in later models, particularly the 2017 model.

The one of the few things I could find online was that a lot of people fried their Mac's (particularly M1s) by using powered PD USB-C hubs (which I was), but this was supposedly fixed in Big Sur and I was running Ventura. (I didn't read many forum comments post the date of that Big Sur fix that say they've fried their Mac using a PD USB-C hub. Others such as Louis Rossman says that a lot of the logic boards die on the 12" model.

I love the weight/form factor of this machine and I'm wondering if its recommended to get the logic board replaced or if this is likely to happen again. Or, is there some other possible cause, and is it preventable?

Thanks advance so much for your replies.

⟐ Commented September 12, 2024 at 19:13 MST

The part in question is this one:

MacBook 12" Retina (Early 2015-2017) Display Gasket

Thanks!

⟐ Commented September 09, 2024 at 17:39 MST

⟐ Answer accepted September 07, 2024 at 7:50 MST

⟐ Commented August 26, 2024 at 3:17 MST

⟐ Commented May 27, 2024 at 8:04 MST

Doesn't turn on.

When trying to turn on, LCD backlight comes on for about one second, and nothing happens after that, also there is no image while that happens or after (when shining a light on LCD).

Negotiates and takes 20v properly from charger.

Gives a chime when connecting the charger.

I'm a complete novice in board level troubleshooting, so don't be surprised if I don't know something obvious. I did read up everything I could find.

So far I think I've narrowed it down to something around the L8410 inductor.

Schematic says that after the inductor voltage should be around 45v, while instead it's 8.6 exactly like before it.

I assume something should pulse the input into it to boost the voltage for the backlight, but there is no pulsing. Just stable DC.

Probably that "something" is U8401 which controls the Q8406 MOSFET which should be doing the pulsing.

Are there any preconditions to U8401 initiating the pulsing? Or should I assume that it's dead?

Edit: BKLT_EN_R coming from CPU to U8401 does go to 3.3v and stay there.

As for the differences, I'm using a brd file for 820-00244, so far the only difference I found was at the XW8401 slot, which shows a component in the file but not present on the board.

⟐ Answer accepted May 15, 2024 at 1:29 MST

Thanks

Chris

Hi Dan, I replaced the battery end of Feb 2023, I have attached a screen shot of the CoconutBattery.

Thanks

Chris

⟐ Commented April 24, 2024 at 11:49 MST

and on the link apple was suggesting i buy a separate trackpad to use with my laptop

i’ve tried all the keys and power button hacks that i have found on line and have been successful twice but then after 30 minutes i will go back to having the same issue my laptop works i’m just not sure as to why the keyword and trackpad randomly freeze and doesn’t allow me back inside the laptop

can someone please help me find a solution to my problem?

⟐ Answered March 22, 2024 at 0:11 MST

I have got many dead MacBooks 12” retina 2017, and obviously, they all have same issues with a burned USB-C port. Anyone else facing this kind of issue?!?

⟐ Answered January 30, 2024 at 16:24 MST