⟐ Answered April 11, 2026 at 8:47 MST

⟐ Commented March 29, 2026 at 11:16 MST

Can I also lift the Macbook's logic board in strategic locations without complete removal to replace the battery?

⟐ Commented March 06, 2026 at 1:52 MST

When I first performed the battery replacement, I did not read the guide well enough and plugged it straight in to 12V power. I thought this had killed the logic board, as it would not turn on. So I purchased a donor machine (exact same model), which I confirmed worked before disassembly, and attempted a logic board swap. After swapping the logic boards between the two chassis and then back to their originals, neither one will power on. I have tried the 5V power trick to no avail.

I'm really stuck on this problem, as I now have two identical MacBooks with known working batteries that will not power on. I have tried different 5V power adapters, different USB-A to USB-C cables, and every combination of logic board and chassis. I have also repeatedly re-seated the USB-C port connector on each logic board, ensuring they are snapped into place correctly. I'm fairly certain all the rest of the flex cables are plugged in correctly, including the keyboard/trackpad cable.

When plugged in with a USB-C voltage reader, the readings are:

• 5.0-5.1V (as required after battery installation, depends on adapter used)
• 0.0475-0.07A (hovers depending on adapter and cable used, also varies slightly between the two machines)
• Average of 0.3W

With the wattage reading in particular, I've noticed strange behavior. I have attempted resetting both the PRAM and SMC, and only resetting the SMC seems to make a difference. When the SMC is reset, the wattage reading goes down to about 0.1W and then quickly returns to 0.25-0.3W. When the power buttons are pressed, the wattage spikes slightly as high as 0.4W. And, weirdest of all, there was one case where resetting the SMC and pressing the power button spiked the wattage reading to over 1W, but only for a second.

Anyone experienced issues like this? I've tried every troubleshooting step I've come across on iFixit and Reddit, etc., so new ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Commented January 30, 2026 at 10:50 MST

I am thinking to just swap over the logic board to make a 'working' unit, but I am concerned that there maybe an irreparable GPU issue other than a faulty display..... to me it looks reminiscent of the scenario when changing the default resolution and then rebooting where these similar lines appear for a split second until the system recognizes the adjusted resolution which to me points to a GPU error as the lines remain as pictured when the system is active.

⟐ Answer accepted October 27, 2025 at 15:47 MST

New here, would appreciate any advice.

My MacBook 2015 ( I know is now old but I happen to love the machine ) keyboard stopped working so I bought a new keyboard ribbon cable. I fit this cable and ever since then my MacBook wont power on.

When I open it up with power plugged into it, the LED on the MLB opposite side to the battery disconnect button, starts dim then gets brighter in 3 stages then returns to being dim and it just keeps doing this.

I tried the unplug of the USB C, disconnect the battery (Press the button) and then press and hold the power button for 5 seconds, this did nothing.

I bought a second user MLB thinking that I had bricked it, but this does the exact same thing so I can only deduce thet either the trackpad (or the trackpad to keyboard ribbon cable) is bad or I am just extremely unlucky and purchased another dead board.

I am trying to work out exactly where on the face up side of the board (when its in the chassis) the power on pads on to see if I can jump it and if it powers on, then Ill know that the trackpad or cable is faulty.

I hope someone could help :) Thank you in advance.

⟐ Answer edited October 17, 2025 at 5:54 MST

There is something wrong with the audio; Built-in Speakers, headphones and Built-in Microphone do not show up in macOS. Even in when reinstalling macOS. Also, there is no boot chime or sound when connecting the charger, which led me to believe that this is most likely not a software problem.

Also, FaceTime is getting a Temperature warning, most likely because of the high reading of the palm rest temperature sensor.

I ran trough Diagnostics, which returned:

• PFM006 - SMC Fault
• PPN001 - Power Management System Fault

It looks like TG Pro is getting normal temp readings, they are all updating nicely and they all make sense. But there is one sensor that i think might be faulty, the palm rest temperature sensor. It’s giving a constant reading of 50 degrees celsius, without any fluctuations. Even when i let the MacBook sit, powered down for a couple of hours, it will always return 50 degrees, which is abnormally hot.

UPDATE 24-06-2023 18:32
It looks like TG Pro shows a sensor that this MacBook simply does not have (palm rest sensor). I've tried another open source program (GitHub) which talks directly to the SMC, which is stating that the palm rest sensor functions normally. This program also shows two sensors that are not included in this line of MacBooks, the Memory Proximity- and RIO-sensors. Also, every post i came across, showing TG Pro on a MacBook A1534, will always state that the palm rest sensor is at 50 degrees.

END OF UPDATE

I’ve taken the Mac apart. I can see that the battery has been changed at some point. It currently has 31 cycles, the battery doesn’t get hot or anything like that. I’ve tried reseating all ribbon cables from the trackpad, right speaker and audio-jack port, without any success. I also co

uldn’t find any signs of liquid. I believe only the battery was changed since the black tape on the display connector was still stuck firmly to the little connector bracket.

Things i’ve tried so far:

1. Resetting SMC, PRAM multiple times, even after opening the Mac after reseating the ribbons.
2. Tried plugging in a 3,5mm cable, it didn’t show up in macOS.

I don’t know where the palm rest temperature sensor resides, my guess is the trackpad but i don’t know for sure. I simply don’t know what to check, there is almost no info about this Mac online.

Thanks for reading, i hope you guys may help me out.

UPDATE 24-06-2023 23:13
Well, i took the MacBook apart once again and completely disconnected the cable that goes from the logic board to the audio controller. At first glance, everything looks okay but on closer inspection, i could see a small point in the cable. I don't know if this is enough to completely loose connection tough. The audio board itself looks really clean, no burned chips. There is a small white 'sticker' on the board, i suspect it's for liquid detection. it's completely white.

Just to be sure, I've just ordered a new flex cable. Will update again with the results.

UPDATE 03-07-2023 16:01
I received the new audio flex cable today, installed it and started my Mac. It's still the same as before; no audio devices, FaceTime error. Tried multiple SMC and PRAM resets, but still no luck.

I'm about to buy a scrap MacBook with an audio board inside and a clean display for a nice price, going to sell the OEM display to cover the cost of the audio board.

⟐ Answered April 22, 2025 at 9:19 MST

I suppose its one of the flex cables that connects to the screen as the lines and flickering changes when moving the lid. Is that flat ribbon changeable or is there something thats attached soldered to the screen?

⟐ Answered March 07, 2025 at 13:39 MST

The line appears sometime, but once it come it doesn’t go away.

After reading many post in different site or forum, I don’t think the problem is a damage lcd panel but a damage or defective flex cable that connect the motherboard to the display.

Any of you guys have the same issue? Any suggestion or resolution?

Thank in advance

Hi @danj, thanks for you illuminating reply!!

Yesterday I didn’t thinking to make a simple but revelatory check like duplicates the laptop screen via hdmi on an external display…. I done it this morning and, yes, only the MacBook display had issue…. so your supposed idea was correct, probably my MacBook has a failing display.

I attach a picture taken with iPhone, to show what I reffer to, but after your reply I saw that the picture that I’ve attached yesterday, opened on another device, didn’t show the shadow line.

Now, the new question is, is possible to change the lcd/retina without changing the entire display assembly?

⟐ Answer edited March 07, 2025 at 13:27 MST

I found someone selling an original battery, still glued to the bottom case, but I don’t know the year of the Macbook where that battery came from. Is it important?

I don’t know if there are incompatibilities between batteries from different years.

Thanks for the answers!

I finally changed my battery and everything is working perfect so far.

The backplate was not a 2015, and the battery was model A1705.

The only problem I had was that my motherboard wouldn’t fit the new bottom case, so I had to cut a piece of the frame that holds the motherboard to make it fit.

⟐ Answer edited December 10, 2024 at 16:57 MST

I have a MacBook 13 inch Retina from mid 2015 (MB PRO 13.3" RETINA 2.7 GHZ I5 - 256GB // 16GB ). My issues started slowly - after turning on the MacBook the screen stayed black. After a hard shutdown (power button for some seconds) and starting again, everything has been fine...

Some days later the screen stayed black again. Same procedure as before - everything worked again.

My problem is that the number of times that the screen stays black became more and more. Now, about 30 to 40 hard resets are needed to have a working screen.

If I light the screen from behind by a flashlight, I can see a picture.

External screens do work fine.

Do you have any idea, what could be the problem?

I did several SMC and PRAM resets - they didn't help.

I am really desperate - such an expensive machine just won't be useful anymore?!

Thanks for your support!

Martin

⟐ Answered November 21, 2024 at 5:10 MST

One day when I woke up my MacBook from sleep mode. I found that the screen was black, but the external monitor displayed normally. Then I discovered that by pressing and holding the area above F8 and F9 without moving, the display would work properly. However, once I released the pressure, the screen would go black again.

I can only use the MacBook with an external monitor, but during usage, sometimes the MacBook's screen would suddenly return to normal. As long as I don't adjust the angle of the screen, I can continue using it. However, if I accidentally move it, there is a high chance that the screen will go black again.

Is this a problem with poor cable connection? How can I fix it?

⟐ Answered October 12, 2024 at 3:29 MST

⟐ Answered October 11, 2024 at 16:35 MST

⟐ Answered October 09, 2024 at 6:37 MST

the last thing is my case on the corner is bent but the actual components are fine and working besides the cable is there a way to un bend it and is a small gap between the bottom case safe I don’t use it near drinks never have thanks

⟐ Answered October 03, 2024 at 5:03 MST

I have a MacBook 12” A1534 (2015) with an broken Logicboard (BAD CPU). I bought a Logicboard from am 2016 MacBook 12” für just 250 Euro. YEAH!

I have built it in. All cables except the USB-C Flex fits front the 2015 into the 2016 Logicboard.

But the battery LED is not lighting up. Is the 2015 battery not compatible with the 2016/2017 Board ?

Are all other Components compatible ? or I need to change also other parts ?

⟐ Commented September 30, 2024 at 9:30 MST

⟐ Commented August 22, 2024 at 18:00 MST

⟐ Commented August 06, 2024 at 17:09 MST

The keyboard backlight and power button still work, but the trackpad, haptic feedback, and the rest of the keys are dead.

External USB keyboard and mouse work through an Apple USB-C to A adapter.

After first reading about this problem, it looks like it was the flex cable from the mainboard to the trackpad that was damaged during the repair. I ordered a new one, but no change to the problem.

After this, I did a continuity check on all the pins on the flex cable with a multimeter and found that one of them did not have continuity. Then I tested the original flex cable, and the same pin did not have continuity on that one either. Because I didn't test the new cable before installing it, I now don't know if this pin is supposed to have continuity or not. Pictures show which pin I am talking about (pointing to the same pin on both ends of the cable).

I have tried to reseat the flex cable connector multiple times on both ends, resetting PRAM, booting in safe mode, and tried to do a SMC reset. SMC reset did not work, as this does not seem to work with an external keyboard (but I have disconnected the battery multiple times, which does the same thing as far as I know).

Now I feel a bit stuck on what to do and would greatly appreciate all help I can get to solve this problem.

⟐ Commented July 21, 2024 at 14:13 MST

I see the connector i see one end of it which is usually held by this black part on the end i see an adhesive outline which might be the connector I'm trying to figure out if I ripped the connecter from the cable or I'm just wrong and unplugged it's from the side near the trackpad, not the logic board

⟐ Commented July 15, 2024 at 8:35 MST