⟐ Commented March 25, 2026 at 6:16 MST

The next day, the same thing happened, where it stopped going up, but this time I just did the EC reset, and it lowered the charge by 10%, but allowed it to charge like normal.

Now, today, the same thing has happened when it got stuck and won't charge past 57%, but this time, the EC reset has not done anything, and restoring the drivers hasn't either. I have charged it for a while, then let it completely die, and then charged it back up for 2 hours to try to calibrate the battery, but that has not worked. Additionally, I performed another battery report, but this time the storage capacity is showing only 10% of the design capacity.

I have taken the laptop apart, and the connector seems to be seated correctly, and the battery is not swelling. As I am writing this, it seems to have fixed itself and is charging, but it is quite slow. But running another battery report, the capacity remains at exactly 10%.

I have no clue how to even approach this, as I have tried everything.
Any suggestions would be great

⟐ Commented January 24, 2026 at 8:22 MST

⟐ Commented January 21, 2026 at 7:19 MST

I am new to repairing electronics, so sorry in advance for any logical errors. My issue is that I am not seeing 3.3V and 5V on any of the ICs that take those voltages. I was wondering where the DC to DC converter is on the motherboard. I cannot seem to find it.

⟐ Answer edited December 24, 2025 at 8:28 MST

It’s the 2021 advanced model with the 3080ti 8gb and the 360hz screen.

The chassis was bent due to being dropped and the screen also but the motherboard still worked fine.

My plan was or still is to transfer the motherboard into a lesser spec advanced model Razer and it just so happens that I’ve found one that could be a potential solution.

This other laptop is a RZ09-033 2020 advanced.

Is this possible?

Other than making sure it doesn't destroy itself on bootup, what are some upgrades/checks I can make on the laptop to make sure it works as good as new

⟐ Answered October 28, 2025 at 2:27 MST

⟐ Answered October 24, 2025 at 1:44 MST

Hi. Anyone can help with my vbios please? The graphics card is not detected in device manager or bios. On the forums people write that the vbios should be in .rom file which is confusing for me because after connecting the ch341a the programmer recognizes and reads the .bin file 2mb. I am attaching a photo of the motherboard and the VBIOS that I desoldered

Razer Blade 15 Advanced 2021
model: RZ09-0409
serial: BY2144M60001081
motherboard: CH570

​​​​​​​PLEASE HELP 🙏🙏🙏

⟐ Edited by author October 17, 2025 at 6:05 MST

⟐ Answered October 09, 2025 at 12:06 MST

My blade 17 (RZ09-0329) has been through some stuff over the years and the broken screen has now put the final nail in the coffin. I am based in the UK and have located a screen seller on ebay, but it did not work and just shows some pink lines (of which I will get a picture of the next time I have it). The keyboard has a few broken keys and missing keycaps so I am wondering if I should get a new unit (~100GBP) or fix it myself. The last any possibly most crucial part is on the board. I have noticed that a very small fuse or resistor has been chipped off on the board near the power connector. There are no scorch marks so I am guessing it was me who knocked it off when I took the keyboard out. I have attached an image of it.

Here are my questions:

• Is there any good repair shop based in the UK which can repair the board component?
• Is there a cheaper alternative to getting a new keyboard unit?
• Has anyone found schematics for razer laptops of know if razer publishes them?
• Is there another option for me to get my screen fixed other than going back and forth with a seller testing screens and eDP cables?

Thanks for your time and all the best!

The board image (red arrow in the upper left points to the component):

⟐ Answered August 22, 2025 at 1:54 MST

my fan stopped working but it still works if plugged into the other convector. I’m almost certain it’s the connector but I’m struggling to find a replacement part because the fans are fine. If anyone can help out that’d be very appreciated.

I have a Razer Blade Pro 17" (2020), model RZ09-0329x and recently the battery swelled up. Now the laptop won’t power on at all, even when I connect it to the original AC adapter.

I couldn't find a replacement battery anywhere, and since I urgently need to use the laptop, I tried disconnecting the battery connector completely to see if it would run just on AC power. But unfortunately, that didn’t work — it still won’t turn on.

While inspecting the inside, I noticed a small circuit board between the two battery cells, near the bottom cooling fans. It seems to be a Battery Management System (BMS) board.

So my main questions are:

- Is this BMS board required for the laptop to boot even when the battery is removed?

- Is there any safe way to bypass it or trick the system into running directly off the adapter?

- Has anyone here successfully powered this model without a battery? Any tips or schematics would be a huge help.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!

Additionally, I am having trouble discerning where this battery connects to the motherboard, as there seems to be no connection visibly streaming from the battery which connects it to the rest of the laptop.

In scouring the internet, the only lead I have found comes from a comment on this thread, which mentions a comment that user had read elsewhere on YouTube which states: "There is a pull tab to the left edge of the battery. It looks like part of the frame but if you can lift it, just pull it straight out - it will come out as one piece."

When I examine the laptop battery inside the chassis, I do see a tab which I am able to lift up slightly on the left side of the battery (pictured below). However, I do feel a little bit nervous about pulling on something next to this giant pillow based off a third-hand account. Does anyone with experience replacing batteries know that this is the correct solution?

⟐ Answered June 26, 2025 at 12:40 MST

Since I've been using if for over 3 years now, I figure it would be wise to try applying new thermal paste to the CPU (I'm not sure if the discrete graphics card inside would also have thermal paste to replace, but if so then I'd guess it would be useful to replace that as well).

I have some experience following pre-existing iFixit guides, but certainly wouldn't know where to start on this task given that I can't find any information online about how the internals of this machine are laid out. If it would be useful, I can supply a picture of the inside after removing the back panel.

--------------------------

EDIT: Picture inside machine. Locations where 5 screws around the battery were removed are circled in red

⟐ Commented June 22, 2025 at 18:35 MST

⟐ Answer accepted May 17, 2025 at 12:47 MST

⟐ Answered March 25, 2025 at 11:19 MST

⟐ Unmarked as duplicate March 08, 2025 at 19:49 MST